Need Advice on Ag-tractor Backhoe-based Stump Removal

[Defective]

And so I ask... in terms of stump size, at what point might I be asking too much of my Bradco 509 backhoe?

Having just done a quick search for specs on your hoe, (here's what I found) I'd say you can go a long way before you start making the machine actually work.

One good rule of thumb I've found useful is that you can knock any stump loose if you can reach it's bottom. Your hoe has a straight wall depth of 7'3". Any stump with a main root ball that goes down less than 7' is fair game.

As an example, those stumps I pulled with my little 8n where a fairly easy job with a SWD of only 5'8".

Deciduous trees will always be easier than an equivalent evergreen as the evergreens commonly have tap roots. Tap roots take cutting as you'll never dig them all the way out. Cutting a tap root is never safe. So, leave big Pine stumps & such for the heavier machines that can snap them off. (Tho I HAVE used a custom bucket to cut a few. If you can get your hands on a 6" wide bucket with a hard & sharp cutting edge you'll be amazed at how much damage you can do to a stump...)

Every species has its characteristic root pattern. Some are downright easy while others will wear you out. None will hurt your machine if you pay attention while working.

I don't necessarily agree with going nuts on the size of the hole. Start close to the stump & make it bigger as needed. I think Eddie said something similar somewhere in this thread. Just resist the urge to try & pry the stump loose & you'll do fine.

If you break loose a stump the machine can't lift out of the hole, wrap chains around it & work it out slowly. You may need to dig a ramp.

OK...'nuff rambling for now...

 

[Dougster]

Having just done a quick search for specs on your hoe, (here's what I found) I'd say you can go a long way before you start making the machine actually work. One good rule of thumb I've found useful is that you can knock any stump loose if you can reach it's bottom. Your hoe has a straight wall depth of 7'3". Any stump with a main root ball that goes down less than 7' is fair game. As an example, those stumps I pulled with my little 8n where a fairly easy job with a SWD of only 5'8". Deciduous trees will always be easier than an equivalent evergreen as the evergreens commonly have tap roots. Tap roots take cutting as you'll never dig them all the way out. Cutting a tap root is never safe. So, leave big Pine stumps & such for the heavier machines that can snap them off. (Tho I HAVE used a custom bucket to cut a few. If you can get your hands on a 6" wide bucket with a hard & sharp cutting edge you'll be amazed at how much damage you can do to a stump...) Every species has its characteristic root pattern. Some are downright easy while others will wear you out. None will hurt your machine if you pay attention while working. I don't necessarily agree with going nuts on the size of the hole. Start close to the stump & make it bigger as needed. I think Eddie said something similar somewhere in this thread. Just resist the urge to try & pry the stump loose & you'll do fine. If you break loose a stump the machine can't lift out of the hole, wrap chains around it & work it out slowly. You may need to dig a ramp. OK...'nuff rambling for now...

Thanks Def! Sounds like I am going to be fine for now with the (90+ percent) 12-18" oak trees I've got to take out on my property. And you are making me very glad that there is not a single pine in the mix larger than maybe 6-8 inches tops. I can push them over easy! Those multi-trunk oaks could be tough, but like I said... they are staying put for now (unless one or more gets blown down this winter!).

As you probably saw in the Bradco brochure, the smallest bucket I can get is 12"... although I did notice for the first time that you can order them without teeth if that makes any sense. Not sure how well a 12" would "cut"... but those teeth on mine are kinda rounded compared with others I have seen. I have no idea if there are any third-party buckets available for the 509 that might be smaller, sharper or stronger.

I am not unhappy with my 18" bucket... but it would be nice if I had a 12" for stumps and maybe a 24" or larger for the re-grading work. Still, the 18" is a good compromise and the smallest one made to work with Bradco's fixed thumb (which I intend to buy as soon as I can come up with a *spare* $850.00).

Dougster

 

[dubba]

at what point might I be asking too much of my Bradco 509 backhoe?

While I have never run a bradco hoe, the specs listed on that link up a few posts are almost identical to my jd 110 hoe. I have yet to run across a stump thats too big for that size hoe, but I haven't any 3-4ft diameter trees on my property. mostly 12-24" oak & pine. I have had a couple of double pine stumps that were a real pain (45min) because of their proximity to each other, size (18 & 24"), and the ledge that they grew into but nothing I couldn't remove. I use a 24" bucket.

 

[Dougster]

While I have never run a bradco hoe, the specs listed on that link up a few posts are almost identical to my jd 110 hoe. I have yet to run across a stump thats too big for that size hoe, but I haven't any 3-4 ft diameter trees on my property. mostly 12-24" oak & pine. I have had a couple of double pine stumps that were a real pain (45 min) because of their proximity to each other, size (18 & 24"), and the ledge that they grew into but nothing I couldn't remove. I use a 24" bucket.

Thanks for the info Dubba! I find this very interesting because my first choice in a slightly used TLB *was* a Deere 110. It's a fact that I would own one today had the timing of my truck purchase (and subsequent surprise lay-off notice 5 days later) happened less than two weeks earlier. Funny the games life plays on you!

That being said, I know the Deere 110 well and my Mahindra 4110/509... which I absolutely love to pieces... is no Deere 110. The only notable advantage I've got with the Mahindra is that it can fit in my garage with the ROPS lowered, helping me comply with my town's strict residential zoning bylaws.

Perhaps with a PTO hydraulic pump the 509 would start to come close, but "as delivered" the 110 has more power, more weight, almost double the BH hydraulic flow, far more dipper/crowd digging power and a generally better overall design (i.e., operator position, curved boom, etc... IMHO) for digging out stumps than the 4110/509.

Still, your report is reassuring. Having bought bigger than I probably should have just so I could attack these stumps and not have to rent or contract out, at times I've questioned that decision when a smaller tractor might have made more sense for my other uses and saved a few bucks.

Dougster

 

[Defective]

Dougster,

The only real advantage to the smaller bucket size is manuverability. Your wider bucket will cut, but you'll want to sharpen up the teeth. Check around & see if you can come up with a used bucket then weld (or have someone weld for you) a section of grader blade on the lip. Grind a medium-sharp edge on the blade & make chips fly. Think of it as whittling with an attitude.

 

[Dougster]

Dougster, The only real advantage to the smaller bucket size is manuverability. Your wider bucket will cut, but you'll want to sharpen up the teeth. Check around & see if you can come up with a used bucket then weld (or have someone weld for you) a section of grader blade on the lip. Grind a medium-sharp edge on the blade & make chips fly. Think of it as whittling with an attitude.

Hi Def - The only used Bradco 500/600 series buckets I've found out there are 16" and 18"... the same as I've got (or close). Not a single 12" anywhere out there unless ordered new.

I'd wondered about sharpening the bucket teeth, but I wasn't sure it would help much and didn't want to risk weakening them. Recently, I found a good cheap source of exact replacement teeth on-line... so maybe I'll buy and experiment on them! Interestingly, the new replacement teeth appear no more or less "sharp" or rounded than the teeth currently installed... so I know they've not worn down much. The replacement teeth are not like some I've seen on-line that appear to have been ground sharp as an axe head.

Dougster

 

[Defective]

Dougster,

Bucket teeth aren't really supposed to be sharp. It's the shape that makes them work. On the other hand, sharp teeth (maybe a 30 degree angle) should do a good job hacking their way through roots. One thing to watch out for is catching roots between the teeth. You'll need a pretty sturdy toothpick. I'd go with the idea of sharp teeth but don't try to force it if you catch a root between them. Keep a good hatchet on hand to get them loose instead.

If you have fabrication capabilities, I'd buy one of the used buckets & think about narrowing it & attaching a sharp edge like I mentioned earlier. Then you'll have a stump digging bucket.

 

[dubba]

Dougster, I was thinking of you today when I was presented with this 6 stump cluster.


Stump 1,2,3 were pine. chainsaw for reference has a 20" bar..




Stump 4,5 were oak, #4 was cut 2 yrs ago, #5 was still growing, started by attacking 4 & 5




4 gives up in 2 pieces, then I pushed over 5




Then I got after 2 & 3. Turns out 1,2,3 were solidly connected



In total it took 1.75hrs to remove this 6 stump cluster. I never showed #6 because it was only 8" & rotted. popped it out with the grapple when I was trenching on the wall side of 4 & 5. I would like to not have dropped the tree on the wall, but what you can't see is the overhead power lines just in front of the tractor. i needed to go away from them with #5.

 

[Dougster]

Dougster, I was thinking of you today when I was presented with this 6 stump cluster. Stump 1,2,3 were pine. Chainsaw for reference has a 20" bar. Stump 4,5 were oak, #4 was cut 2 yrs ago, #5 was still growing, started by attacking 4 & 5. 4 gives up in 2 pieces, then I pushed over 5. Then I got after 2 & 3. Turns out 1,2,3 were solidly connected. In total it took 1.75hrs to remove this 6 stump cluster. I never showed #6 because it was only 8" & rotted. Popped it out with the grapple when I was trenching on the wall side of 4 & 5. I would like to not have dropped the tree on the wall, but what you can't see is the overhead power lines just in front of the tractor. I needed to go away from them with #5.

Holy Goodness Dubba! You are "Da Man"!!!

'Course, I see you cheated by using your thumb! No fair Brother Dubba!!!

1.75 Hours??? Seriously??? It would have taken me that long just to plan my attack! And then half an hour more to finish my coffee before starting!!!

Like I said before, you can compare specs all day long, but that Deere 110 is one heckuva nice machine. Sure wish I had bought my truck and been laid-off two weeks earlier! I know experience matters... and almost anyone here currently beats me in that category hands down... but you've also got one very nice stump-pulling machine there!

Thanks for posting the pix and telling the story. I've got to get a digital camera of my own someday soon. Someday, I want to be able to show you all that I've learned something under your valuable guidance!

Dougster