2004 was a bad year, 2005 better... by 2006-2007 they figured out what was needed. There is a guy on youtube that has a "bulletproofing" he does on the older 6.0 liters, but it involves head studs, EGR delete, coolant bypass filter... he goes over a whole list. If the repair involves pulling the cab, that's the time to replace the oil pan, which is partial to rusting out in a salty environment, and a painful and difficult project to do without pulling the cab. I'd do some solid research and get a quote for what it would take to get it solid. My 2007 has been reliable, but other than plowing and occasional towing, I don't ask much of it, or tend to take it too far. It was revamped significantly since 2003, and discarded for reputation once they got it working right.
Need Advice on Ford 6.0 L Diesel
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FTG-05
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If you own a Ford 6.0 diesel, you need to be doing a good part of this list to make it bulletproof. Maintenance Tips
Some are pretty simple: coolant filter, replace Ford Gold with ELC coolant, blue spring mod, etc. Others not so much: EGR delete, hi power alternator and so forth.
Some are pretty simple: coolant filter, replace Ford Gold with ELC coolant, blue spring mod, etc. Others not so much: EGR delete, hi power alternator and so forth.
dieselcrawler
Elite Member
If you want to fix it right, check out the 6.0 psd section of powerstroke.org, I have been a member there for as long as I've had my 7.3's. Regardless of if you choose 'quick fix and flip' or 'fix it right and keep it', you will find a wealth of information there that may run deeper than what you will find on this, a tractor forum.
As to which direction you want to go, depending on how well you like the rest of the truck. Myself, I like the entire truck, enough that we have 3, and my buddy has 2, all of which I have maintained over the years, all 7.3's, all with over 200k miles, some close to 300k.
For super simple, a 12 valve Cummins is a one-wire deal, but the body and chassis it rides in does nothing for me, unless you swap it into my superduty. Want simple? 12 valve swapped into a early leaf spring 4x4 superduty with the zf6 manual trans.
As to which direction you want to go, depending on how well you like the rest of the truck. Myself, I like the entire truck, enough that we have 3, and my buddy has 2, all of which I have maintained over the years, all 7.3's, all with over 200k miles, some close to 300k.
For super simple, a 12 valve Cummins is a one-wire deal, but the body and chassis it rides in does nothing for me, unless you swap it into my superduty. Want simple? 12 valve swapped into a early leaf spring 4x4 superduty with the zf6 manual trans.
Diamondpilot
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I have a 06 F350 SRW 6.0 with just a tad over 120,000 miles. I'm drive it like I stole it and it's never ever been in the shop for anything other than a bad dash cluster. Actually a bad fuel gauge but they had to replace it as a unit.
I have my truck modified with 160HP Quadzilla Chip, MAC intake/filter, and 4" exhaust.
These trucks are hit or miss. EGR issues are the biggest. Your injection issues are more likely due to low usage. The Turbo should not go nearly that quick with 5K oil changes and running it hard. It's a Variable Vane setup and need s to be used hard to keep clean.
I would Bullet Proof it and keep it. You will not get anything close for under $30,000
We pull twice the weight you are talking all the time with ours.
Chris
I have my truck modified with 160HP Quadzilla Chip, MAC intake/filter, and 4" exhaust.
These trucks are hit or miss. EGR issues are the biggest. Your injection issues are more likely due to low usage. The Turbo should not go nearly that quick with 5K oil changes and running it hard. It's a Variable Vane setup and need s to be used hard to keep clean.
I would Bullet Proof it and keep it. You will not get anything close for under $30,000
We pull twice the weight you are talking all the time with ours.
Chris
Degolyerent
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Bullet proof it and keep it, they are a good motor after bullet proofing. In my opinion you will never get $16,500 or anything close. I bought a 2000 f250 w/ 7.3 when it was 10 years old for $6000 and didn't have that many miles.
A new one is very high priced and also a roll of the dice as far as reliability, the EPA mandates are causing problems for all the truck makers as far as diesel motors.
A new one is very high priced and also a roll of the dice as far as reliability, the EPA mandates are causing problems for all the truck makers as far as diesel motors.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
A good friend of mine is a huge fan of all things diesel and when he had a few of the Fords with the 6.0 engines in them, he said that he knew they had problems, but he never imagined just how bad they really where!!! He now has a fleet of Dodge trucks to service his crane business in California and Hawaii. Just to brag on my buddy a little, his crane was the one eaten by the dinosaur in the latest Jurasic Park movie. He made $25,000 for them to rent it for the week. He is also the owner of the cranes used on Mythbusters, and in High School, he was both state and took first place in the nation for diesel mechanic in some competition for schools. I forget what it was called.
He sold his Fords at a loss, but figured it was cheaper then trying to keep them running and what he lost in not being able to service his cranes or get somebody out there to make the repairs. He has 20 cranes and if I remember correctly, 5 or six service trucks. I've never been a fan of Dodge, but if I decided to buy a diesel pickup truck, that's going to be my first choice
He sold his Fords at a loss, but figured it was cheaper then trying to keep them running and what he lost in not being able to service his cranes or get somebody out there to make the repairs. He has 20 cranes and if I remember correctly, 5 or six service trucks. I've never been a fan of Dodge, but if I decided to buy a diesel pickup truck, that's going to be my first choice
Weak spots on 6.0's are known, as described above. Personally, I wouldn't have a problem owning a bulletproofed 6.0.
Variable vane turbos are known to have issues under light duty use; some factory designs will now sweep the vanes at idle to mitigate this - updating the 6.0, I'd be looking for this feature (IDK if it's available aftermarket).
All modern diesels are high-maintenance, relative to old (mechanically injected) designs. By that I mean the maintenance schedule and proper factory spec fluids have to be adhered to, for best lifespan/reliablity.
I've seen fuel filters coming out (black tar looking) of even 7.3s that would have likely caused expensive fuel related repairs on many modern diesels.
Not questioning OP Dave's maintenance (it might have been perfectly done, since he owned it), just bringing up the correct fluid issue, as I'd want to have that conversation with the re-build shop, and then ensure follow up fluids were correct.....
I use Stanadyne fuel additives in my diesels. Don't want to drift the thread (some people swear by their choice of additives, some people swear at 'em......), but as injector pressures have gone up, and injector orifice geometry has gone down, IMO they are more relevant to long life than ever.
Assuming you don't have the same diesel legislation as Cali..... if you can fit one down your trails, and have enough parking space at home, perhaps consider getting an older 2wd medium-duty truck. Some can be had w/o air brakes, are less complex to repair, and should be able to easily tow what you want to.
Rgds, D.
Variable vane turbos are known to have issues under light duty use; some factory designs will now sweep the vanes at idle to mitigate this - updating the 6.0, I'd be looking for this feature (IDK if it's available aftermarket).
All modern diesels are high-maintenance, relative to old (mechanically injected) designs. By that I mean the maintenance schedule and proper factory spec fluids have to be adhered to, for best lifespan/reliablity.
I've seen fuel filters coming out (black tar looking) of even 7.3s that would have likely caused expensive fuel related repairs on many modern diesels.
Not questioning OP Dave's maintenance (it might have been perfectly done, since he owned it), just bringing up the correct fluid issue, as I'd want to have that conversation with the re-build shop, and then ensure follow up fluids were correct.....
I use Stanadyne fuel additives in my diesels. Don't want to drift the thread (some people swear by their choice of additives, some people swear at 'em......), but as injector pressures have gone up, and injector orifice geometry has gone down, IMO they are more relevant to long life than ever.
Assuming you don't have the same diesel legislation as Cali..... if you can fit one down your trails, and have enough parking space at home, perhaps consider getting an older 2wd medium-duty truck. Some can be had w/o air brakes, are less complex to repair, and should be able to easily tow what you want to.
Rgds, D.
Stimw
Elite Member
Find one of these guys that brag that theirs has been perfect and trade with them!
Maybe that will shut them up since all the problems are well known and documented.
Maybe that will shut them up since all the problems are well known and documented.
ModMech
Platinum Member
It's a well documented fact that THE single biggest issue on the 6.0L is the surge tank (radiator) cap, followed closely by contaminated coolant. If the cap won't hold pressure, the EGR system overheats, boils the coolant and you get "puking". then you operate it with low water and more bad things happen, the EGR cooler overheats, the oil overheats and eventually so does the engine - all because of low water level. Debris in the cooling system can cause similar symptoms, because the oil cooler passages become restricted, slowing coolant flow thru the oil cooler and EGR cooler.
Most of the "bad" 6.0 problems are rooted in a failure to accurately diagnose and correct the root cause of the symptoms, not from design. I have been working with them since day 1 and most of the "bulletproofing" does not address the actual root causes of the symptoms and in some cases make failure more likely.
Most of the "bad" 6.0 problems are rooted in a failure to accurately diagnose and correct the root cause of the symptoms, not from design. I have been working with them since day 1 and most of the "bulletproofing" does not address the actual root causes of the symptoms and in some cases make failure more likely.
Soundguy
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Wow.. bad luck.
I have an 04 f250 6.0 psd.
So far it has never been towed. It has not been with out a few issues, but I'll list them.
Batteries are usual 3-5 year maint items.. so that's normal along with oil / filter changes.
Since this is a work truck, it ran plain 15w40 oil for about 8 years, before I got it swapped over to 5w40 syn.
It has 130k on it right now. Turbo is starting to be noticibly louder than it was in it's previous life. Not gone yet.. but I predict some time inthe future, that repair is coming.
Still on original injectors and HPOP.
It was suddenly running very rough a few years ago and turned out to be a VERY VERY dirty egr valve. That was a 49$ diagnosis fee at the local deisel mechanic. I recall the rebuild kit was a whopping 5$ for the gasket and 2 orings needed. Took longer to watch the video and ask a few questions on how to do the job, than to do the job. I have since cleaned it again earlier this year.. was maybee a 10m job after doing it before..
The fuel gauge is a little disapointing. when it shows 3/16 a tank.. you are really pretty much empty... other than that it is accurate and linear.
These engines are very oil sensitive I have found.. A good investment to run a little better oil than wally world or farm store no brand oil would be advised based on the way the injectors work.. or at least use the sever service interval is using a low grade oil.
Only mods I can think of this truck has had was a superchips tuner, but it was only tuned to tow/haul safe mode, but is back to stock now, and the air clener box was changed out to that rectangular one that takes a napa 9490 filter.
Have done the right front hub as well as regular brake jobs as needed.
Has been thru 1 alternator. That one didn't require a tow, but did require a jump and 20 minute parking lot charge then a trip straight to the shop to change the alt.
Hmm.. I do recall having some kind of vacume leak a while back that effected the 4wd shifting.. was an easy cheap fix however ( I didn't do it, local shop did it, in and out in an hour.. so it couldn't have been much ).
Good luck. I sure hate trucks that constantly let me down, and i hate chasing problems.
I have an 04 f250 6.0 psd.
So far it has never been towed. It has not been with out a few issues, but I'll list them.
Batteries are usual 3-5 year maint items.. so that's normal along with oil / filter changes.
Since this is a work truck, it ran plain 15w40 oil for about 8 years, before I got it swapped over to 5w40 syn.
It has 130k on it right now. Turbo is starting to be noticibly louder than it was in it's previous life. Not gone yet.. but I predict some time inthe future, that repair is coming.
Still on original injectors and HPOP.
It was suddenly running very rough a few years ago and turned out to be a VERY VERY dirty egr valve. That was a 49$ diagnosis fee at the local deisel mechanic. I recall the rebuild kit was a whopping 5$ for the gasket and 2 orings needed. Took longer to watch the video and ask a few questions on how to do the job, than to do the job. I have since cleaned it again earlier this year.. was maybee a 10m job after doing it before..
The fuel gauge is a little disapointing. when it shows 3/16 a tank.. you are really pretty much empty... other than that it is accurate and linear.
These engines are very oil sensitive I have found.. A good investment to run a little better oil than wally world or farm store no brand oil would be advised based on the way the injectors work.. or at least use the sever service interval is using a low grade oil.
Only mods I can think of this truck has had was a superchips tuner, but it was only tuned to tow/haul safe mode, but is back to stock now, and the air clener box was changed out to that rectangular one that takes a napa 9490 filter.
Have done the right front hub as well as regular brake jobs as needed.
Has been thru 1 alternator. That one didn't require a tow, but did require a jump and 20 minute parking lot charge then a trip straight to the shop to change the alt.
Hmm.. I do recall having some kind of vacume leak a while back that effected the 4wd shifting.. was an easy cheap fix however ( I didn't do it, local shop did it, in and out in an hour.. so it couldn't have been much ).
Good luck. I sure hate trucks that constantly let me down, and i hate chasing problems.