Need Advice on Ford 6.0 L Diesel

[bspeedy]

It's a well documented fact that THE single biggest issue on the 6.0L is the surge tank (radiator) cap, followed closely by contaminated coolant. If the cap won't hold pressure, the EGR system overheats, boils the coolant and you get "puking". then you operate it with low water and more bad things happen, the EGR cooler overheats, the oil overheats and eventually so does the engine - all because of low water level. Debris in the cooling system can cause similar symptoms, because the oil cooler passages become restricted, slowing coolant flow thru the oil cooler and EGR cooler.

Most of the "bad" 6.0 problems are rooted in a failure to accurately diagnose and correct the root cause of the symptoms, not from design. I have been working with them since day 1 and most of the "bulletproofing" does not address the actual root causes of the symptoms and in some cases make failure more likely.

Not contesting your statements, but this is the first time I've heard this about the Fords. Here is my understanding:
7.3's are 500K mile engines with proper care - great engine.
6.0's are NG but fixable with proper bullet-proofing to last for a long time
6.4's are NG no matter what you do to them.
New 6.7's (? is that right) are starting to get some miles on them and seem to be a-ok. Time will tell.

My '99 F250 has the 7.3 with the ZF6 manual. I would not want to go back to the gasser.

Selling or keeping is usually a financial decision. I would be unlikely to upgrade unless I could trade for a much better (newer) truck. If 30-40 grand is in the budget, upgrade. If not, stick with what you have and get it fixed up right.

 

[FTG-05]

The coolant problems with the 6.0l are well known or at least were when I bought my F-350 PSD back in late 2005/early 2006. I installed my coolant filter at 40 miles. For some reason, my 6.0 came with Ford Green coolant instead of the notoriously bad Ford Gold coolant (at least for EGR cooled vehicles). I fixed that by replacing it with CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant. I also replaced the surge tank cap, but it was fine to begin with.

Fixing the coolant issues won't necessarily fix the EGR cooler leak problems, as mine started leaking around 90k miles. I did the full fix: EGR delete kit, had oil cooler checked (it was fine), head studs, upgraded STC fitting etc.

I also fixed the other notorious 6.0l problem: it's horribly designed electrical system. I replaced the OEM 140 amp alternator with a DC Power Systems 185 amp unit, upgraded the alternator charge wire to 2 ga (in line with the moronic twin 12 ga fusible links) and did the "Big Three" negative ground upgrade as well - negative battery to body/chassis ground, body/chassis ground to engine, engine to battery negative. And replaced the weak OEM FICM with an upgraded unit from Mr. FICM (link provided in my post above).

 

[crashz]

You may be able to direct trade the F250 for a slightly newer gas powered truck and not have to lose much out of pocket. With the proper gearing package all domestic 3/4 ton trucks should be equipped to tow that load easily. And the gas powered trucks are very reliable. But none will have the power your 6.0 has with a load on. It doesn't seem like much, but when your behind the wheel, your driving/towing style will change.

I'd look for a lightly used gas truck in good shape and dump the diesel. But if you wanted a hot rod, you had some time and money to spend on bulletproofing, those 6.0 truck can be made to perform.

 

[STx]

You've got a kind of tough call, the 2003 and 2004 6.0's had problems but the problems are known and fixable. A bulletproofing on the 6.0 should run you in the $4k - $6k range, depending on the shop and options you go with but you have already have some expensive repairs to make in addition to the bulletproofing. You already have a good bit of money in it and truth is that unless you get lucky, the 6.0 isn't going to bring anywhere near the KBB you're looking at, real world, you can buy those trucks all day long for under $10k because everybody knows they have problems. So are you frustrated enough with it to take the loss and move on or do you want to spend what it will take to get it "right" and then have a pretty reliable truck?

If you're going to keep it, you need to bulletproof it or it will continue to have problems.

If you get rid of it, stay away from the 6.4. The most reliable engine Ford ever put in a diesel truck is the 7.3, I have 274k on mine and still have the original injectors in it. I just had to do the turbo about a month ago but other than that and a transmission rebuild at 242k, everything else has been wear parts. The 2005 - 2006 6.0 are pretty good engines, they had most of the problems fixed by then and everybody seems to like the 6.7 but it's a very complicated engine and when stuff breaks on it, is VERY expensive to repair. I'm starting to hear mumbling about sensor problems that will shut the truck down on and prevent restarting, even at highway speed, and am hearing about turbo issues with them more frequently.

If it were me, I'd cut my losses and look for a clean 7.3. It's going to cost more than the 6.0 but it's not going to let you down as long as you take care of it. I plan to drive my 7.3 until the wheels fall off of it and then I'll buy some new wheels and drive it some more.

 

[Soundguy]

Same here. I have a 99 350 & 450, both 7.3's.. Love them trucks.

 

[Haoleguy]

CD - Sounds like a tough but clear decision to me. Your confidence in this truck is low and you need to fix it no matter what you intend to do later. Since you are heading to the outback often, but low annual miles, with a tow vehicle you definitely need something more reliable. I would take the suggestion of others and find a "6L" expert and do what you can to get this truck in good working order. My own personal opinion would be, as suggested by someone above, to trade it in on a certified preowned Ford F250/F350 with the 6.2L gas engine. The truck should last you quite sometime and meet your needs at 12K towing(SRW) and you would have a warranty in hand.

 

[jaotguy]

please just dump it and take the losses .... then go look for something better
I know it sounds harsh , but the 04 6L was the worst of the lot ...

Ohio deemed them as unsafe ... the engines died for no reason , anywhere,anytime .. and when the motor quits, no power steering and a couple of pumps of the brakes and you have almost none ... who wants an non steerable unstoppable truck?

culprit was the injector control circuit , ran off the oil pressure ... cold = high pressure and more fuel injected , warm = less pressure and less injected ... hot = no fuel injected
fix was to replace the whole engine with a better design.

then add in the cooling issues , EGR problems , turbo .....
just your basic design flaws that cost many buyers their shirts

 

[roadhunter]

6.0 Ford Diesel = Dump it at a dealership and run.

I wouldn't' wish 6.0 Ford diesel on my worst enemy. Those things can be massive money pits. Some of the horror stories just make you shake you head at Ford. I knew a guy who replaced an engine at 30k and it was not under warranty. Same guy put another one in at 70k. Finally sold it. It nearly cost him his business.

That is easily the worst diesel engine put in a pickup in the last 20 years. Nothing else even remotely close. Get it running and head to the dealership so you don't' have to have the conscious of unloading the truck on an unsuspecting buyer. Trucks like that have the ability to change people lives with constant huge repair bills.

 

[HCJtractor]

I found a diesel specially shop that "debugged' our '03 rescue. He only deals with diesels ,knows them inside out and knows where the week spots are are in each model year. It can be saved and can be trouble free but you need the right guys on the wrench. Ours needed the turbo cleaned, egr delete, and an after market tune to deal with check engine light from the delete. She is a whole new truck now. Comes down to do you want to find a competent shop and spend several thousand or get out of it.

I have a 06 with 225,000 and did the same thing. But it takes a shop that specializes in these engines. Mine runs great now. I've been tempted to upgrade but newer ones are so expensive. I spent about 3 grand on the delete, tuner, injectors etc. I think the 6.0 can be a good engine, but you need to have a very experienced mechanic.

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[w1ebb]

That's too bad about the unreliability of your truck. The ford 6.0 engine is known as the "S***-Oh!" in repair shops. I realize that you are probably comfortable with everything about the truck, except its unreliability, so good luck with whatever you do.

Scott