Need advice on regulator for Yanmar L100 10HP diesel generator

[mikedodd]

I have a stand-alone 6KW generator powered by a Yanmar engine model L100V6EA1C1AA (Engine Number: M29254). It has worked fine since 2013, but now the 15-amp fuse between the battery and the ignition switch and regulator blows instantly when the key is turned to Ignition.

I traced-out the wiring diagram, and it appears the green wire from the switch to the regulator is shorted to ground. This wire is labeled IGN on the wiring diagram in my yanmar service manual.

Two pages in my service manual show two different Regulator numbers: RS5112 and RS2190. The RS5112 wiring diagram shows five wires to the regulator, and the colors are nearly identical to the wires on my regulator. The page with the RS2190 shows only four wires with different colors. It appears that one wire (yellow) from the regulator is for the Charge lamp (which i don't care about).

Question: I can not find an RSS5112 regulator to buy, but i see lots of other Yanmar regulators. Are these all pretty much the same? What differences are there? Charging current? Could i replace my RSS5112 with a different part? If so, what should I look for?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice.

--- Mike

 

[ponytug]

My L100 manual comes up with 114399-77710 as a part number for the regulator. None of my poking around came up with your part numbers, which leads me to suspect that those numbers are part numbers from your generator manufacturer. Does the regulator have apart number on it?

Regardless, these are widely produced and reproduced. They are not complicated parts. I have seen them with three through six wires.

I would search for Yanmar L100 voltage regulator on your favorite parts sites and go from there. Personally, I would try to match the number of wires just to keep it simple.

All the best,

Peter

PS I recommend getting a Yanmar parts manual. It really helps for these engines. A service / workshop manual has additional details that can be helpful.

 

[California]

There's a 'pancake' alternator widely used on small Yanmar, Kubota, B&S, lots more. And only a couple of regulators to fit them all.

If it looks about the same, and the number of wires and the connector match, you've likely found the right one. $30 or less from Ebay or Amazon.

If Amazon, its likely returnable so you're risking nothing.

 

[bmaverick]

My L100 manual comes up with 114399-77710 as a part number for the regulator. None of my poking around came up with your part numbers, which leads me to suspect that those numbers are part numbers from your generator manufacturer. Does the regulator have apart number on it?

Regardless, these are widely produced and reproduced. They are not complicated parts. I have seen them with three through six wires.

I would search for Yanmar L100 voltage regulator on your favorite parts sites and go from there. Personally, I would try to match the number of wires just to keep it simple.

All the best,

Peter

PS I recommend getting a Yanmar parts manual. It really helps for these engines. A service / workshop manual has additional details that can be helpful.

I have lots of Yanmar L100 manuals for free. What one does he need?
- Parts Manuals
- Shop Manuals
- OPS and Maintenance Manuals

All on the YOTG,

main groups.io Group

*Yanmar Tractor Owners Group.* **US models, Gray market models, Cub Cadet models, RK models, even our green siblings known as Deere's. ** *A valuable source for owners of Yanmar tractors.* * * *If you would like to join our group, then click on the +Join This Group button below left. *NOTE: A...

yanmar-tractor-owners.groups.io

 

[ponytug]

I suspect #s 1, 4, 5, & 7 would be a good start, given that he has an L100V6E, and is using it in a fixed speed industrial use. (Manuals 7 & 8 look the same from here, but I did not download them.)

Thanks!

All the best,

Peter

 

[bmaverick]

I have a stand-alone 6KW generator powered by a Yanmar engine model L100V6EA1C1AA (Engine Number: M29254). It has worked fine since 2013, but now the 15-amp fuse between the battery and the ignition switch and regulator blows instantly when the key is turned to Ignition.

I traced-out the wiring diagram, and it appears the green wire from the switch to the regulator is shorted to ground. This wire is labeled IGN on the wiring diagram in my yanmar service manual.

Two pages in my service manual show two different Regulator numbers: RS5112 and RS2190. The RS5112 wiring diagram shows five wires to the regulator, and the colors are nearly identical to the wires on my regulator. The page with the RS2190 shows only four wires with different colors. It appears that one wire (yellow) from the regulator is for the Charge lamp (which i don't care about).

Question: I can not find an RSS5112 regulator to buy, but i see lots of other Yanmar regulators. Are these all pretty much the same? What differences are there? Charging current? Could i replace my RSS5112 with a different part? If so, what should I look for?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice.

--- Mike

See the attached,

 

[bmaverick]

I have a stand-alone 6KW generator powered by a Yanmar engine model L100V6EA1C1AA (Engine Number: M29254). It has worked fine since 2013, but now the 15-amp fuse between the battery and the ignition switch and regulator blows instantly when the key is turned to Ignition.

I traced-out the wiring diagram, and it appears the green wire from the switch to the regulator is shorted to ground. This wire is labeled IGN on the wiring diagram in my yanmar service manual.

Two pages in my service manual show two different Regulator numbers: RS5112 and RS2190. The RS5112 wiring diagram shows five wires to the regulator, and the colors are nearly identical to the wires on my regulator. The page with the RS2190 shows only four wires with different colors. It appears that one wire (yellow) from the regulator is for the Charge lamp (which i don't care about).

Question: I can not find an RSS5112 regulator to buy, but i see lots of other Yanmar regulators. Are these all pretty much the same? What differences are there? Charging current? Could i replace my RSS5112 with a different part? If so, what should I look for?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice.

--- Mike

see the 2nd attached,

 

[bmaverick]

I have a stand-alone 6KW generator powered by a Yanmar engine model L100V6EA1C1AA (Engine Number: M29254). It has worked fine since 2013, but now the 15-amp fuse between the battery and the ignition switch and regulator blows instantly when the key is turned to Ignition.

I traced-out the wiring diagram, and it appears the green wire from the switch to the regulator is shorted to ground. This wire is labeled IGN on the wiring diagram in my yanmar service manual.

Two pages in my service manual show two different Regulator numbers: RS5112 and RS2190. The RS5112 wiring diagram shows five wires to the regulator, and the colors are nearly identical to the wires on my regulator. The page with the RS2190 shows only four wires with different colors. It appears that one wire (yellow) from the regulator is for the Charge lamp (which i don't care about).

Question: I can not find an RSS5112 regulator to buy, but i see lots of other Yanmar regulators. Are these all pretty much the same? What differences are there? Charging current? Could i replace my RSS5112 with a different part? If so, what should I look for?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice.

--- Mike

see the 3rd attached,

 

[bmaverick]

I have a stand-alone 6KW generator powered by a Yanmar engine model L100V6EA1C1AA (Engine Number: M29254). It has worked fine since 2013, but now the 15-amp fuse between the battery and the ignition switch and regulator blows instantly when the key is turned to Ignition.

I traced-out the wiring diagram, and it appears the green wire from the switch to the regulator is shorted to ground. This wire is labeled IGN on the wiring diagram in my yanmar service manual.

Two pages in my service manual show two different Regulator numbers: RS5112 and RS2190. The RS5112 wiring diagram shows five wires to the regulator, and the colors are nearly identical to the wires on my regulator. The page with the RS2190 shows only four wires with different colors. It appears that one wire (yellow) from the regulator is for the Charge lamp (which i don't care about).

Question: I can not find an RSS5112 regulator to buy, but i see lots of other Yanmar regulators. Are these all pretty much the same? What differences are there? Charging current? Could i replace my RSS5112 with a different part? If so, what should I look for?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice.

--- Mike

See the 4th attached,

 

[mikedodd]

My L100 manual comes up with 114399-77710 as a part number for the regulator

Yes; now I see that in my Yanmar parts manual. (comment below)

None of my poking around came up with your part numbers, which leads me to suspect that those numbers are part numbers from your generator manufacturer. Does the regulator have apart number on it?

The part numbers I posted came from the Yanmar l100 complete maintenance manual.

I would search for Yanmar L100 voltage regulator on your favorite parts sites and go from there. Personally, I would try to match the number of wires just to keep it simple.

All the best,

Peter

PS I recommend getting a Yanmar parts manual. It really helps for these engines. A service / workshop manual has additional details that can be helpful.

That's a big DUH for me! I have the parts manual and service manual as PDF files, but I didn't look in the parts manual, thinking the service manual had the info.

Once I opened the parts manual, I found the same 114399-77710 number you mentioned. So that's shat I'll search for. Thank you, Peter.

--- Mike

 

[mikedodd]

I called my favorite Industrial Diesel parts department. Joyce said the 114399-77710 number has been changed to 119660-77712.

 

[ponytug]

Can I ask which company is your favorite industrial diesel supplier?

I maintain a number of diesels here and I'm always looking for good sources.

I find part numbers to routinely be bugbears. Manuals get updated, the same part gets a new number because that's what it is called in a newer machine, and my #1 favorite is rebranding with a new part number to make it exclusive, some commonly available part. (I'm going round and round on a 300 micron filter with 1/8" NPT threads. It was an assembler specific part made by one of the big suppliers that was taken over by another manufacturer that merged the product lines (more items switching part numbers). I still have no official word on the correct part...)

All the best,

Peter

 

[mikedodd]

Industrial Diesel in Norfolk, Virginia 757-857-5391 Fuel Injection Systems Repair | Norfolk, VA | Industrial Diesel Inc.

THIS ISSUE IS RESOLVED. I don't know how to add RESOLVED to the subject line, but I isolated the problem.

The short circuit is not in the regulator. Instead, it appears to be in a two-relay circuit i added to implement remote starting by our solar power system. I cut various wires until the short disappeared, and it's clear the relays are the location.

Odd, because these have been working find since 2012. I'll have to dig deeper or replace the relays entirely.

Thanks for all the advice.

--- Mike

 

[bmaverick]

Industrial Diesel in Norfolk, Virginia 757-857-5391 Fuel Injection Systems Repair | Norfolk, VA | Industrial Diesel Inc.

THIS ISSUE IS RESOLVED. I don't know how to add RESOLVED to the subject line, but I isolated the problem.

The short circuit is not in the regulator. Instead, it appears to be in a two-relay circuit i added to implement remote starting by our solar power system. I cut various wires until the short disappeared, and it's clear the relays are the location.

Odd, because these have been working find since 2012. I'll have to dig deeper or replace the relays entirely.

Thanks for all the advice.

--- Mike

Mike, get yourself name brand and reliable relays. The cheaper ones tend to arc or the fulcrum inside corrodes and the relay switching isn't complete. I've been using Omron relays for decades with no failures for both solar and for electrical projects.

 

[ponytug]

Industrial Diesel in Norfolk, Virginia 757-857-5391 Fuel Injection Systems Repair | Norfolk, VA | Industrial Diesel Inc.

THIS ISSUE IS RESOLVED. I don't know how to add RESOLVED to the subject line, but I isolated the problem.

The short circuit is not in the regulator. Instead, it appears to be in a two-relay circuit i added to implement remote starting by our solar power system. I cut various wires until the short disappeared, and it's clear the relays are the location.

Odd, because these have been working find since 2012. I'll have to dig deeper or replace the relays entirely.

Thanks for all the advice.

--- Mike

Congratulations on finding the issue.

FWIW: Many relays can be opened up and serviced, but I am on @bmaverick's page that quality relays are the way to go. I also tend to try to load relays at less than half or a quarter of their rating to help their reliability. Relays don't like to sit either; the contacts and fulcrum tend to stick. It is a mechanical item after all.

For mission critical items, I tend to move up to solid state which have switching ratings ten to one hundred times standard relays, but they have their own issues.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Williy]

RS5112 volatasge regulator y;anmar RS5112 at DuckDuckGo

willy

 

[mikedodd]

Congratulations on finding the issue.

FWIW: Many relays can be opened up and serviced, but I am on @bmaverick's page that quality relays are the way to go. I also tend to try to load relays at less than half or a quarter of their rating to help their reliability. Relays don't like to sit either; the contacts and fulcrum tend to stick. It is a mechanical item after all.

For mission critical items, I tend to move up to solid state which have switching ratings ten to one hundred times standard relays, but they have their own issues.

All the best,

Peter

The short is not in my relays. I disconnected the battery and checked all wires on the generator with an ohmmeter. I found the short between the two wires powering the fuel solenoid, of all things.

The black wire had one strand poking out toward the adjacent red wire, which had no insulation at that point. I dressed the wires, applied Goop to the bare wires, and slipped shrinkable tubing over them.

Tomorrow I'll install a better fuse holder and restore all the wires I clipped searching for the short. I expect the generator to start right up.

--- Mike

 

[ponytug]

Yay! I hope that it all works now.

All the best,

Peter