3-Point Hitch Need advice on top link height with finishing mower

[JWR]

Well said: "We all knew that something was funky with that setup, and it looks like you found out why."

 

[Midniteoyl]

Also, and this now has to be asked, but.. Did you even receive a 84" mower?

 

[JWR]

Also, and this now has to be asked, but.. Did you even receive a 84" mower?

Yeah verily !!

 

[CincyFlyer]

When I go on a downslope.

If you mean where a downslope levels out, or turns to an upslope (the bottom of a ditch), that's not uncommon. Sometimes it needs to be raised before hitting those areas.

 

[pacerron]

9stott and bilneif together have it right. When the mower is on level ground with the tractor the top swivel pin is supposed to be even with the lower link pins ( forward and back) The front of the bracket pinned to the upper link will be lower than the pivot point on the mower.. This is so the mower can work on hills and over ruts without anything binding as well as to keep the mower deck relatively level when you lift it off the ground. The casters on your mower adjust the height of cut and in most situations handle everything unless you go over a rut or drop the back of the mower down over a hill like mowing a bank from the top. Normally your upper link will have enough threads to adjust this correctly. If not, as in your case, move the bottom holes on the slant brackets to the lower holes as stated by 9stott.
I have an old woods 7.5 foot mower like this that I purchased new in 1986. I have put thousands of hours on it and have had minimal parts to repair over the years. Just be sure to grease the spindle zerks and other zerks as the manual tells you. Too much grease at once in the spindle zerks will cause grease to get on the big drive belt.
Frontier was made by Woods for many years.

 

[MUDONTHETIRES]

If you mean where a downslope levels out, or turns to an upslope (the bottom of a ditch), that's not uncommon. Sometimes it needs to be raised before hitting those areas.

Yes, both of those situations. The issue is that the top link is not stopping it from digging in to my pto shaft.

 

[LittleBill21]

Yes, both of those situations. The issue is that the top link is not stopping it from digging in to my pto shaft.

you might want to go back and look at my post, its a very simple thing to try to see if it fixes it.

 

[MUDONTHETIRES]

Also, and this now has to be asked, but.. Did you even receive a 84" mower?

Lol, I grabbed a tape measure and measured it to be sure! It’s an 84” mower. I also just left the dealership and they stated that they will be ordering ALL the correct parts and that they’ll make it right, so we’ll see. My Mahindra 6065 is brand new with zero modifications. My top link is higher than a lot of the tractors I was looking at there at the dealership. I told them the size and make of my tractor when I purchased the mower and they stated that it will work. Hopefully the new parts (correct parts) will allow me to mow.

 

[IndyJay]

Lol, I grabbed a tape measure and measured it to be sure! It’s an 84” mower. I also just left the dealership and they stated that they will be ordering ALL the correct parts and that they’ll make it right, so we’ll see. My Mahindra 6065 is brand new with zero modifications. My top link is higher than a lot of the tractors I was looking at there at the dealership. I told them the size and make of my tractor when I purchased the mower and they stated that it will work. Hopefully the new parts (correct parts) will allow me to mow.



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I dunno if I would trust any manufacturer that puts a "FRONT" sticker on the back of their cutter... that's just too confusing...

 

[Xfaxman]

I dunno if I would trust any manufacturer that puts a "FRONT" sticker on the back of their cutter... that's just too confusing...

That is for when it is configured for a front PTO machine:

 

[MUDONTHETIRES]

Don't know how old this mower is, but.. I'm back to my original suggestion of extending that flex hinge's mounting point to be about 3" higher.

ie: That point at 19" in your 2nd pic, move it up about 3" using bar stock. Bolt and weld the new bar stock to the uprights using a pipe as a spacer to maintain the separation. Then shorten the flex hitch by about and inch ('cause it really is too long) and mount it using the raised point.

The dealership hopefully will be installing longer mounting points. Thank you for the suggestion.

 

[MUDONTHETIRES]

I dunno if I would trust any manufacturer that puts a "FRONT" sticker on the back of their cutter... that's just too confusing...

Hahhaaaaa!!!!

 

[MUDONTHETIRES]

I have a very similar setup. JD 870, Frontier 6 ft finish mower. If i remember correctly, The manual say that the top link should be lined up with the pins on lift arms. If that]s the case, your top link needs to be much shorter. The top link on my setup is almost parallel to the ground. Has worked great for the past 4 years.

That's just it. I purchased an 18 inch (very short) top link yesterday to see if that would work and the photo I posted here originally is with the shorter top link. The problem is that the mower is too close and too low because of wrong hardware on the mower. I think. LOL!

 

[MUDONTHETIRES]

If true that could be a big part of the problem.

I agree 100%!

 

[MUDONTHETIRES]

I had a similar problem with about 10 acres, approximately 1/4 acre of which is sort of flat and the rest cut up and rough. JWR’s and other’s chain suggestion is probably the most cost effective solution. I went with a hydraulic top link hooked to a rear remote with float function. I can, and do, flip it up to cross the creeks or load it on the trailer, put it in float when mowing to follow ground contour, take it out of float to raise over obstacles, all very quickly without leaving the seat or stopping. I’m aware that’s not a cheap solution but it’s a really sweet setup.

It’s also very nice for grading work to have hydraulic top and side link so it’s not strictly for mowing. At times, floating the side link is better for some grading operations which can be done by swapping the remote connections.

Thanks for your input. I've been wanting a hydraulic top link for a while now.

 

[MUDONTHETIRES]

you might want to go back and look at my post, its a very simple thing to try to see if it fixes it.

If the dealer doesn't come through, I'll try that if the angle will allow it to fit the rear mounting hole.

 

[LouNY]

Even with the wrong linkage if you are getting enough articulation that the hitch is hitting your pto shaft that is a lot of travel.
One thing that I noticed is that trailer ball on your drawbar, when using my brushhog on my 3 point I have to slid my drawbar in to shorten it and swing it sideways to avoid the drawbar getting into the pto shaft.

 

[beenthere]

I’ve been around tractors for a good while but this is really confusing to me. I must be missing something. I purchased a 7 foot finishing mower for my tractor and the top link is too high on my tractor or the floating top link on the mower is too low. I purchased an 18 inch top link at HF just to see if that would fix the problem because mine was too long. Now the top link bangs up against the driveshaft which will not work. See photos and any advice will be appreciated.
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Replace the top link with a short length of chain.. Much better, as it only has to function to raise the deck.

 

[MUDONTHETIRES]

Even with the wrong linkage if you are getting enough articulation that the hitch is hitting your pto shaft that is a lot of travel.
One thing that I noticed is that trailer ball on your drawbar, when using my brushhog on my 3 point I have to slid my drawbar in to shorten it and swing it sideways to avoid the drawbar getting into the pto shaft.

I don’t have my drawbar on the tractor. The top link upper plate is hitting my pto shaft. You’re right that there’s A LOT of travel.

 

[MUDONTHETIRES]

Replace the top link with a short length of chain.. Much better, as it only has to function to raise the deck.

The dealership is currently trying to right a wrong. If they don’t come through, I’ll try it. Thank you!