Need advice welding crack in tiller frame

Shield Arc · Apr 8, 2015

If not, you can buy small rolls at Lowe's.

Shield Arc · Apr 8, 2015

sixdogs said:
Oh, I have .023 Lincoln wire in now but I also have .030 if I change things over. Do I have to?

The material looks thin, so it probably doesn't matter. Remember to run as hot as you can handle it!

Sodo · Apr 8, 2015

Looks like its cracking on the non-drive-chain side (passenger side). Is this correct?

I don't see marks from the square u-bolts in your crack pics. Does yours have that square u-bolt an inch in from the crack?

Trying to get a picture of the forces, to recommend how to brace it up. This is difficult not seeing the item in front of me, so more pictures will help (if you're interested).

sixdogs · Apr 8, 2015

Sodo said:
Looks like its cracking on the non-drive-chain side (passenger side). Is this correct?

I don't see marks from the square u-bolts in your crack pics. Does yours have that square u-bolt an inch in from the crack?

Trying to get a picture of the forces, to recommend how to brace it up. This is difficult not seeing the item in front of me, so more pictures will help (if you're interested).

More pics tomorrow. U bolts for the frame are a couple feet away from this and yes, it is opposite the drive end.

sixdogs · Apr 8, 2015

No cracks on the other--drive side --end.

At ShieldArcs thinking, I looked at the other side and found the weld there went around the ends of the square tubing on the bottom. This type of weld is missing on the cracked side so my thinking is the welder missed part of the weld. Plus, the weld that is there looks a little shaky to me like it was too cold.

The crack occurred on the non-drive end so my guess in the forces twist in that direction. So, given that and the abuse I generated along with a poor and insufficient weld and a crack is not unexpected. I really don't want to scab metal onto it because the look would hinder resale. I'm not that good of a welder to make it looked like it "belongs" and I really think clean up and correct weld will solve my problem.

And I know the importance of correct weld penetration. Heat will be all the way up.

Sodo · Apr 8, 2015

sixdogs said:
At ShieldArcs thinking, I looked at the other side and found the weld there went around the ends of the square tubing on the bottom. This type of weld is missing on the cracked side so my thinking is the welder missed part of the weld.

That was mighty observant of Shield Arc!

Arc weld · Apr 9, 2015

Maschio is one of the best tillers you can buy but I am totally shocked at the poor welding and lack of welding all around. There is no way that tiller should have ever made it past quality control. When you weld the crack, start your weld a little past the end of the crack and weld back over the crack so you don't leave a crater for a new crack to start.

sixdogs · Apr 9, 2015

Sodo said:
That was mighty observant of Shield Arc!

Big oops on that. It was Sodo that suggested the missed weld. So sorry. :ashamed:
Thank you Sodo for observant post.

Shield Arc · Apr 9, 2015

I wouldn't bet the farm that the bottom weld was forgotten! When fabing with square / round tube a lot of people will leave a spot for condensation to weep out.

Gary Fowler · Apr 9, 2015

A weep hole is one thing and should not need to be more than about 1/4" long un-welded spot, but not welding the whole length is not a thing to do. I suspect it was just forgotten after coffee break or something especially since the other welds were all the way around.

I would double check every weld and if they look wanky, wimpy or what ever your choice of words for poorly welded, re-weld them all. At least with the tiller, you can flip it over to weld the bottom so no overhead welding is required.

All advice for fixing the crack is spot on.