just split unit to weld bellhousing nowit doesnt lock up good can feel hyd clutches disengage under load I changed fluid filter cant locate trans screen fel pto work fine any help ?
found screen cleaned it no go have to get r's upto go had no trouble at all before I split it can T shaped bar under main shaft cause this prob. it seems to stay out all time? does it have inner springs or o-rings that could be damaged pulling tractor apart. it hung up a little but didnt force it?
Do you have a service manual for your tractor. That should explain the function of the bar. I got a 276d manual form Hoye. Sounds like the pump circuit for the powershift clutches is leaking internally causing low pressure at the powershift clutch.
Since the problem started after the split, I would guess it has to do with the regular clutch not engaging fully. do you still have proper clutch pedal free travel, (1/2-3/4")?
To test main clutch. Engage the pto with some inplemdnt that will load it lite a rotory cutter. (spinn up will load pto) When the clutch is released if the pto engages normally the main clutch is ok. and the problem is with the powershift. If the Pto does not load the engine them you have a problem with the main clutch.
I don't have any PTO implements to try, but wouldn't the main clutch slip more as you give it more fuel? IF you give it more fuel the tractor starts to go slowly for a sec then you can feel it lock up if you start up a hill you can feel it unlock and it will slow down and stop. I just took off bell housing put it back.no probs before what the *&^%$
All linkages are good. I just don't understand. I took off bell-h. didn't mess with clutch,or anything with powershift. I did make gasket for back of housing where it joins trans.Could small debri get in small holes on trans side. It looks like valve body. I'm fairly picky & careful working on things,Thats why this is making me crazy.I,m gonna replace shift springs&see what happens.Iwon,t give up!
It sounds like the T/O bearing retainer may be binding on the shaft or a spring has broken or come off. On many models you can unbolt and lift the steering box, shaft and steering wheel, and expose the area. You can operate the clutch pedal by hand and view the travel...and sometimes reconnect an unhooked spring. It is better than splitting the tractor again.
Where did you weld the bell housing? Is it near any machined or mating surfaces to engine? Good luck,
Does that mean the clutch adj. is correct? It's hard to tell how a mechanism will react that is not working properly. I wouldn't think you could split a tractor without messing with the clutch.
I mean clutch freeplay fine. You don't have to take pressure plate or clutch disk off to remove b-housing so Ileft it alone the clutchwas plenty strong before so I'm assuming it has to be a fluid prob. when tractor wants to stop which is mainly in 2&3 range pto still engages fine and loader will still lift anything.if main clutch was slipping that bad would loader&ptostillwork norm?
I think throw-b isgood i have taken sterring box off twice seems o.k both springs are on. I welded around mounting bolt holesof sterring box. Ibought tractor second hand and I think someone hit something with front tire while going pretty good and busted steering box off housing was cracked from bolt holes towards trans.kept getting longer so I took off housing welded up cracks. Boy did I open a can of worms! OH-well guess i'll go fishing
Well I finally got it figured it out. The T shaped bar I mentioned earlier was the prob. it had a snap ring on the back of it that had popped off. thats why it seemed to stay out all the time. that shaft keeps pressure on a bearing valve until you press in the clutch. this valve does have something to do with fluid pressure.All is good again! I had to split it again to fix it, but live& learn right.I want to thank every one for their help & advice this is a great resource!!