Need help finding a bearing...

[2458n]

That is the sort of reply that makes this such a great site.

 

[rtimgray]

Oreilly's has it as a BCA #513002
NAPA has it as #FW104

about $75 from both

Thanks for the help. I'm going to see if they can get them in stock so I can measure them prior to purchase. I already got one 513002 bearing and it wasn't even close - maybe I got a bearing that was packed in the wrong box?

I'm also curious if they are sealed bearings - I would really prefer one for this application, but I'll settle for unsealed if I have to.

Thanks again.

 

[rtimgray]

Rock Auto is showing the same part for about $45, with the same dimensions. Think I'll give that a shot - I'm starting to think the 513002 that I got was improperly packaged.

Once more, thanks for all the help.

 

[LD1]

Every bearing that I have ever seen has its PN on it.

the 513002 you got that dont fit, what does it say on the bearing itself.

 

[LD1]

Every bearing that I have ever seen has its PN on it.

the 513002 you got that dont fit, what does it say on the bearing itself.

 

[BeeferMan]

It's the hub bearing that the disc shaft sits in? If so, I doubt that 6mm in that dimension is going to be a problem...

 

[rtimgray]

Every bearing that I have ever seen has its PN on it.

the 513002 you got that dont fit, what does it say on the bearing itself.

All that was on it was KOYO and JAPAN. The old bearing doesn't have anything that I can find on it either. I found the 513002 bearing at a lower price from another supplier that I was able to talk to and they could confirm the dimensions. What they couldn't do was tell me if the unit that have is sealed or not.

Thanks.

 

[LD1]

Don't know on that bearing, but on the more common 6000 and 5000 series bearings, something like 2rs or rs or zz or vv after the bearing number indicates sealed. Just depends on the brand

 

[rtimgray]

As a bit of an update, I got the 513002 bearing (it is not sealed, as it turns out) from the other supplier and it is (or seems to be) the correct fit. I installed it last night on the mower and replaced the assembly and went out an mowed about 5 acres of hay - no problems as all.

I'm hoping that this fix will hold out for a while, at least the rest of this season. Don't have a whole lot more to do anyway.

I'm wondering this: what made the bearing fail to start with? From what I understand, it had a sealed bearing, so it's nothing that I could have re-packed anyway. The whole bar is supposed to be filled with gear oil to lubricate the gears that turn the shafts that turn the discs, and the mower had been sitting in a barn for many years, unused, prior to me getting it. I'm wondering if the bearing just "dried out" from lack of use, and then when I started using it, it got hot and failed....just wondering out loud.

At any rate, I appreciate the help that was offered - and it appears as though the first 513002 bearing I got probably was just in the wrong box. The new one I received (that fit) had some numbers stamped on it, but not any of the numbers that appear in this thread. I haven't cross-referenced them with anything else though.

Thanks again. Good luck and take care.

 

[JimRB]

I have seen rusty things that were supposed to be in an oil bath. I can't remember what it was I saw but if things just sit then that oil drains away.

 

[MHarryE]

Grease injector needles are available from stores like NAPA and O'Reilly's. if I copied this right the following link should take you to O'Reilly's. I've known several farmers who use these to grease their sealed bearings t the end of a season - grease and rotate a few turns to distribute to make sure the grease is distributed. Can't tell you if it is the right thing to do or not but those who do swear by it.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...se+gun+needle_-1_-1&keyword=grease+gun+needle

 

[woodlandfarms]

I am in the midst of a bearing replacement as well on my mower deck ( three spindle, belt drive hydraulic). Mine are not sealed. It is a very basic design, basically a trailer axle, housing and bearings mounted vertically, The top bearing has two issues, it is exposed to the elements and I don't feel it can get properly lubricated. How in the heck is grease going to get up into those bearings. They sit in the sun, grease melts and drips down, out of the bearing.

Of of mine was rusted. Really frustrated but now I am going to fill the shaft area with grease and hope work on an updated maintenance plan that involves getting those upper bearing repacked.

 

[rtimgray]

There is no way to get grease into this bearing without completely disassembling that particular disc mower section. You have to take off the disc (I've alway's heard them called "turtles") and then you have to unbolt it from the bar assembly and pull it out. Then you have to remove a locknut, then pull the drive gear off, then you can have access to the bearing. If I'm going to go through all of that, I'm going to just replace the $30 bearing instead of greasing it.

Thanks for the suggestion though. I've got a needle attachment for my grease gun but have never had the opportunity to use it.

 

[Soundguy]

sealed bearings are not a lifetime investment. they will wear out too...

 

[LD1]

sealed bearings are not a lifetime investment. they will wear out too...

Faster than a non-sealed bearing that gets proper greasing in my experience. I hate sealed bearings...

Give me a open bearing with a grease fitting and an external seal any day over a sealed "lifetime warranty" unit.

 

[Soundguy]

Faster than a non-sealed bearing that gets proper greasing in my experience. I hate sealed bearings...

Give me a open bearing with a grease fitting and an external seal any day over a sealed "lifetime warranty" unit.

yup.. bearing with seperate seal and a grease fitting. I'll take that too.

 

[rtimgray]

I've usually seen sealed bearing used in applications where there is a likelihood of grime/grit/foreign material getting into the bearing on a regular basis, or where the bearing will be basically inaccessible to routine greasing. I know I don't expect a sealed bearing to last forever, but in some applications is may be preferable.

I think in my case, it was probably designed that way because the bearing is not easily accessible or serviceable - that's my guess, anyway. I'll let you guys know how long it lives with an open bearing.

Good luck and take care.

 

[crazyal]

Kind of reminds me of the "heavy Duty" univeral joints for cars that don't have zerk fittings. The seals only hold the grease in for so long and once the bearing starts to get play the seal is even less effective. Some applications require a sealed bearing so you're kind of stuck but when possible I also like a separate seal and easily greased bearing.

 

[sixdogs]

I couldn't open the link but everyone should have one of those needle grease injectors. If it doesn't have a grease fitting I get at least some in with the needle tip and have had very few failures from sealed bearings that way.

Grease injector needles are available from stores like NAPA and O'Reilly's. if I copied this right the following link should take you to O'Reilly's. I've known several farmers who use these to grease their sealed bearings t the end of a season - grease and rotate a few turns to distribute to make sure the grease is distributed. Can't tell you if it is the right thing to do or not but those who do swear by it.

Dorman® Champ™ 9-766 - Grease Injector Needle | O'Reilly Auto Parts