Need help finding special U-bolt or clamp???

[Brad_Blazer]

Dog Kennel Clamp

You can bend the kennel clamp if you need to accommodate different sizes. I would just use a piece of galvanized pipe instead of a solid rod. Almost as stiff, corrosion resistant, and matches the hydrant. Mine is anchored to a T-post with an ill fitting U-bolt I had laying around.

 

[Willl]

place 2 - 3" PVC pipe around it to keep concrete from making contact

Curious, why would you need to do this ?

 

[Danno1]

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Might find something useful here:


McMaster-Carr



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[mojoinco]

I have several of the freeze proof ranch faucets around my place. None are supported. And yes, I did hit one with a tractor. Stands a bit crooked, but still works. Wife noticed, mentioned it to a friend, but I just kept on going to where I was planning on doing (something else other than explaining how I managed to hit that thing). This may not be the problem you think it is. BUT, I would think about how I would go about changing a faucet. You will want to have something to get hold of with a pipe wrench. To me that means the elbow or T needs to be metal. Then you can hold it while changing out the faucet stand pipe.

Now, as to concrete around the stand pipe. This drains back into the ground, leaving the pipe empty so concrete shouldn't be that big a deal in terms of freezing. My concerns would be more along the lines of the concrete causing damage by not changing temperatures with the rest of the soil, but changing at a different rate (or holding moisture below it and keeping it colder). Like I said, I haven't found a good reason to worry about this one.

In my shop floor I made a ~1' square form around one and back filled with gravel. Hope that makes it easier on the next guy if he needs to fix it.

In all cases, YMMV.

 

[Oliver1655]

Concrete reacts to the galvanization & causes it to fail / rust. If the PVC pipe extends down to the "tee" or elbow, it would also make it easier to change hydrants instead of having to dig it back up. Most of the time you can remove the guts to rebuild the hydrant from the top without removing it. However I have had 2 instances where the brass at the bottom of the hydrant separated from hydrant pipe & I had to re-epoxy it together. By having the hydrant in the PVC, it was a quick simple repair. Dug the spray foam out, (it is only used at the top) lifted the hydrant out. removed the guts, wire brushed the pipe where the brass slides on, coated the pipe with JB weld slide it into the brass, re-foamed it in the PVC pipe, waited 30 minutes for JB weld to set well then reinstalled guts.

 

[Willl]

However I have had 2 instances where the brass at the bottom of the hydrant separated from hydrant pipe & I had to re-epoxy it together.

Glued ?

Well, I won't have to worry about that. All mine have always been threaded. Came from the store that way.