Need help finding special U-bolt or clamp???

[SPIKER]

If you go to Menards they have offset pipe clamps, look in the Copper Section as they offset or drop hangers have a threaded end and a round clamp. two could be bolted together to get what you need.

I used treated 2x material like in one of the above posts to support mine. I also used a METAL T at the bottom and continued past my hydrant to the barn. that T can have extra hunk of pipe to a CAP that does nothing more than help support the pipe at the bottom...


Mark

 

[Carl_NH]

After really looking over my setup, Im beginning to wonder if I should have tried to make a steel elbow and then transition from steel to PVC in a straight line. Most of the stress on this is definately going to be in the elbow. Your thoughts?

On the same lines, put a PVC Tee then extend the pipe thru the other wall of the drum and cap it. Support the pipe underneath and clamped to 2x8 PT screwed in from outside the drum.

Then put some vertical pipe/rebar/stiffeners along the vertical pipe thru the PT to the bottom of the drum and fill up drum with some concrete to the PT.

 

[BeezFun]

You might consider adding a water hammer arrestor as long as the patient is open for surgery. If these faucets are on a long line and you use any kind of spring actuated shutoff device like a hose nozzle, you can get some loud banging in the house. Plastic fittings really don't like water hammer. When I put my barn water in I installed two arrestors in case one fails.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I would install a 4x4 as if it were a fence post, and then attach the pipe to it as if it were a wall.

 

[Willl]

Loose the "cold roll rod" and go concrete.

 

[Paddy]

I agree with Willl. If you ever need to get to it, it won't take much to crack up the concrete. Most of the stress is tugging on the garden hose. I put one on my roof. It goes through a 4" slab but is just "pipe strapped" to the joist below. Very rigid.

 

[Xfaxman]

Here is a picture of my setup. As you can see, the transition from the 2" pipe to the faucet will prevent me from driving the rod in right down beside the upright faucet pipe. There will be a slight offset.

I can't tell from the picture, is the bottom out of the blue barrel? The water level looks higher in it.

Are you going to fill it and the bottom of the trench with rocks?

I have always driven a T Post down and clamped it with a stainless steel hose clamp to the valve at the top, which is offset the same from the pipe.

 

[Oliver1655]

Ideas mentioned I like:
- Use a "Tee" in place of the elbow to allow you to go though the other side of the barrel
- Use a "Tee" post or imbed a cross support at the top of the barrel to fasten hydrant to with hose clamp
- Bottom removed from barrel & clean rock up to the "tee" or elbow making sure the drain hole on the side of the brass fitting at the bottom the hydrant is kept open.
- If using concrete at the top, place 2 - 3" PVC pipe around it to keep concrete from making contact & use spray foam to lock hydrant in place. Do not wrap reinforcing material for the concrete around the hydrant.

 

[Xfaxman]

This is what I have on the Tee Post.


Bailing wire even works! :ashamed:


Looks like I need to brace the electric box.

 

[Notforhire]

These come in lots of different pipe sizes. If you back to back them you can attach two pipes at any angle. @ your local electricial supply store.