Need help on purchase

[BubbaJr]

Thanks for the info! Is your tires filled?

No, just air.

Joe

 

[chris1976]

Land pride or king cutter tiller and why
Thanks

 

[SDT]

Hi all! Chris here, need some help on what to buy. Getting 35 acres in WV (hills) with about 12 acres cleared. Will be doing a lot of mowing, food plot for the deer, garden, and driveway maintenance mostly. I'm pretty much decided on a b2650 with FEL and 60 mmm. I have many questions so I will be asking them in the comments as well as now. All the help is much appreciated! What tires? Dealer says turf because the industrial aren't very good on hill sides. Fill tires or counter weight? I think I need one or the other but was wondering if the filling of tires would rob power when I'm doing other things. Keep in mind I'm new to tractors so take it easy on me lol more questions will come in comments thanks again!!

Here's my suggestions without reading the other posts.

Twelve acres to maintain is significant so consider a larger tractor if your budget permits. If you have lots of finish mowing to do consider a good zero turn but be advised that zero turns do not hold side hills well (this is why I do not use one). A zero turn might not be suitable if you have steep ground that needs to be mowed with a finish mower.

I change/repair all of my own tires, which is the primary reason that I never use liquid ballast. Rather, I use cast iron wheel weights (not available for the 2650) and/or a ballast box. Weight behind the rear axle is a MUCH more effective FEL counterweight than is liquid ballast. Yes, dragging the extra weight of liquid ballast around when it is not needed does take power, especially on hills. Yet another reason why I never fill tires.

R-4 tires are rugged and long wearing but do not grip the ground as do R-1 tires. R-4s are less damaging to turf than are R-1s but considerably more so than turf tires. None of these are very good in snow but turfs are better than the other options. If you have serious snow plowing to do, you will likely need chains, especially if the terrain is steep. Turf tires are best with chains but check fender clearance. You may need wheel spacers, and spacers/chains may interfere with a MMM. Do your homework so that you do not end up with a combination requiring you to install/remove wheel spacers as the seasons change.

Will now read the other posts. Hopefully, I have not simply repeated earlier advise from others.

SDT

 

[SDT]

I don't know why people are so against reducing the noxious exhaust. Who wants to breath that stuff?

Cost, complexity, reliability, and durability for trivial benefits if any at all.

Did I mention cost?

SDT, who was a design engineer for GM for many years.

 

[SDT]

Exactly. The 2650 does not have the DPF, nor does the 2601. So maybe the cutoff is anything >26hp?

And the L2501 is certainly heavier than the B2650, but the 2650 surprisingly has a longer wheelbase, tighter turn radius, more ground clearance, higher hydraulic flow and stronger 3-point lift capacity. But the weight can sometimes make all the difference in the world based on your specific projects.

I believe that the current regulations mandate that diesel engines at (or above) 30 crankshaft HP must have DPF. The 33 engine HP, 27 PTO HP B3350 has the costly DPF whereas, the B2650 does not.

Unless we can reign in the out of control EPA (looking much more likely these last couple of years), you will eventually see costly, non productive emissions equipment on your walk behind lawn mower.

SDT

 

[SDT]

Should I get front and rear hydraulics? Not going to need them right away but who knows about the future. Or is it something that is not a problem to add later?

F and/or R remotes can be added at a later time but it is likely less expensive to do so at purchase time unless you choose to install such yourself. Either can be self installed by a decent mechanic but be advised that the installation instructions are intended for professional mechanics rather than non mechanically inclined owners.

I can think of no significant reasons why you might want rear remotes on a B2650 but you might want the expensive third function (front) valve if you may add a hydraulically angled front snow blade or a grapple bucket. That said, you are not going to move much with a grapple bucket on a B2650 so you may wish to forego the expensive third function valve. I did specify a third function valve for my B3350 because I bought a hydraulically angled QA snow plow. I did not buy the rube Goldberg rear remotes offered for the B sseries.

SDT

 

[SDT]

Thanks! I wish I had the coin to buy both but I dont. That's why I have decided on a tractor and mow with it. I've heard the 60 inch gives a better cut than the 72 but lately been hearing the 2650 handles it just fine.

Recently, there was a lengthy thread herein posted by a B2650 owner attempting to mow relatively steep (not steep in my opinion) ground with a three point mounted 6' finish mower. He found himself severely power limited.

Yes, he had the optional oversized tires that were loaded and was attempting to mow with the FEL installed but he found himself in low range and HP limited while testing things out before the grass was growing. Indeed, there was no grass to cut. He was simply driving around.

Point being, his unit was simply too heavy for the available HP. Removing the FEL helped, standard sized tires without liquid ballast would have helped more and a MMM rather than heavier three point 6' finish mower would have helped. I expect that my B3350 would have struggled if set up as his 2650 was.

Don't load the tires unless you need the traction. Rather, get the modestly priced ballast box.

SDT