Comparison Need Help Picking the Right Unit

[Carp614]

Don't laugh too hard. I have agonized over this decision for 6 weeks. I just don't know how big a tractor I want to get.

Here is what I will be doing with it:
-Finish mowing 3.5 to 4 acres
-Filling gullies and moving dirt back up hill where it belongs
-Moving horse manure (2 horses) and other compost
-Disking, aerating, seeding and the like
-Moving gravel and rocks
-Dragging logs

To complicate matters, I would like to be able to bring this tractor to the horse rescue where I volunteer from time to time. The unit I use there is a Kubota 2601 4wd, hydrostatic, box blade, 4 ft bush hog, front end loader. I have found it to be quite capable and easy to use. But I think that is far too much tractor for the work I need to do at home.

I basically have to decide between a sub-compact and a compact tractor, so for example:
John Deere 1 family or 2 family
Kubota BX series or B series
LS MT1 series or XJ

I mention these because these are the dealers in my area. I will have to finance regardless since I don't have 5-10 grand lying around.

What do y'all think?

Thanks in advance.

 

[sweettractors]

Don't laugh too hard. I have agonized over this decision for 6 weeks. I just don't know how big a tractor I want to get.

Here is what I will be doing with it:
-Finish mowing 3.5 to 4 acres
-Filling gullies and moving dirt back up hill where it belongs
-Moving horse manure (2 horses) and other compost
-Disking, aerating, seeding and the like
-Moving gravel and rocks
-Dragging logs

To complicate matters, I would like to be able to bring this tractor to the horse rescue where I volunteer from time to time. The unit I use there is a Kubota 2601 4wd, hydrostatic, box blade, 4 ft bush hog, front end loader. I have found it to be quite capable and easy to use. But I think that is far too much tractor for the work I need to do at home.

I basically have to decide between a sub-compact and a compact tractor, so for example:
John Deere 1 family or 2 family
Kubota BX series or B series
LS MT1 series or XJ

I mention these because these are the dealers in my area. I will have to finance regardless since I don't have 5-10 grand lying around.

What do y'all think?

Thanks in advance.

The dragging logs makes me think 35-45 hp. Ken Sweet

 

[Carp614]

Would you change your mind if I told you they would be no bigger than 8 ft by 12 inches around? Also likely to be one of the most infrequent uses for this tractor.

 

[sweettractors]

Log size does make a difference, however, the incline of hills you traverse should also be considered. Ken Sweet

 

[mmancuso13]

The kubota Bx should work well for you

 

[TheMadOne]

Log size does make a difference, however, the incline of hills you traverse should also be considered. Ken Sweet

Gotta agree with Ken. I have a L3301. I struggle to get some logs moved with it simply due to not having quite enough grunt. I usually can manage, but sometimes have to cut them in half, which doubles my handling time. If my land wasn't made of barely buried(and in a lot of places, exposed) shale formations and a steep grade I'd probably be more than fine with the 33HP.

Also, you spec out a lot of loader chores. Bigger unit, bigger bucket. Less time to do the job.

I'll also have to trot out the old forum chestnut that buying a zero turn mower is more efficient than getting a Mid-Mount or 3PT finish mower for your tractor. A good zero turn would mow 3.5-4 acres in...2-3 hours and do a beautiful job. The same land with a tractor could easily double that time and you'd have to be careful to not tear things up on wet days. Landscapers are all the time trading in units with plenty of life left in them, which resell for not much more than the attachment for a tractor.

 

[cford36]

Whichever one you decide on be prepared that the John Deere will be much more $$. The LS will give you the most options for your money. I recently traded in a John Deere 2210 for a LS 3135HC
I checked on the LS MT125 and my dealer quoted me $12,333 with loader. It also has draft control which I don't think any other sub-compact has. I'm just not sure that you will be happy with a sub-compact for some of the things you want to do.

 

[mike69440]

You do not want a SCUT for the work you described.

 

[Grandad4]

You mention hills, moving dirt (presumably with the loader), moving gravel and rocks and dragging logs. Those are chores that work a tractor hard. While you may not want or need something as large as that L2601, to handle the sort of work you describe, you should at least move up to a tractor size that has a 3 range transmission instead of the 2 range ones in the Subcompact tractors. You should have plenty of good choices among the brands you've noted.

 

[bspeedy]

Interesting that you are looking at smaller tractors. When I read your description of the work you need to do, I thought 35-45 hp. I do similar work with my Kubota L3710 - 38.5 hp. I could go larger to the MX series, but I would never go smaller.

45 hp will allow you to run a 6 foot or larger rear finish mower. It will also be a tractor with a more stout loader to move dirt and rocks and manure.

Unless you have some un-explained requirements, go bigger than you think you need.

 

[PJSprog]

Stout tractor for the stout work and finish mowing do not go together very well. Like TMO, I think you might want to be looking at two different machines.

 

[Carp614]

Lots are really helpful opinions. I surely appreciate it.

I'm taking two big things away from this:

First, subcompact models are probably too small to do all of the work I would like to do with them.
Second, finish mowing with a tractor might be more trouble than it is worth. That fits with my experience busting fence posts!

I'll have to split it up. I just don't see any way around it. Small (48" or less) deck riding lawn mower and a compact tractor for bigger jobs.

Thanks!

 

[cford36]

Lots are really helpful opinions. I surely appreciate it.

I'm taking two big things away from this:

First, subcompact models are probably too small to do all of the work I would like to do with them.
Second, finish mowing with a tractor might be more trouble than it is worth. That fits with my experience busting fence posts!

I'll have to split it up. I just don't see any way around it. Small (48" or less) deck riding lawn mower and a compact tractor for bigger jobs.

Thanks!

Thats what I did. Traded in the SCUT that did everthing and got the LS 3135. Just need to get the riding mower when the snow finally clears.

 

[jeff9366]

Neither a BX nor a B will be effective with a Disc Harrow. Plan on purchasing a PTO powered roto-tiller instead. Disc Harrows and roto-tillers are both soil mixing implements.

Moving heavy loads in an FEL bucket up, down, or across slopes is extremely hazardous. If one tractor wheel drops in a hole or rut the tractor can roll in less than one second. If this is a must, get a larger, heavier tractor. Larger wheels are less likely to be swallowed by holes. Greater weight means more stability. Fill your rear tires with liquid, to lower tractor center-of-gravity. Carry a very heavy counterbalance on the Three Point Hitch to offset load weight in bucket.


If you elevate log butts, reducing ground friction, a small tractor can pull pretty heavy logs on level ground.
Photos #4,#5,#6, #7.

MORE: heavy FEL loads site:tractorbynet.com - Google Search