Need help with John Deere I-Match hitch
- Thread starter denverdave66
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denverdave66
Silver Member
Yeah, I think that is what happened but why after only 30 mins of light brushogging would it do that? Any tips on getting inside the plastic bell to change it?
There is a little flap on the bell that opens up. This will allow you to put in the new bolt and get a nut started. At that point it isnt to bad to get inside with a couple of end wrenches. Use a locking nut so that you do not have to completly tighten the hdwe, typically shear bolts are a grade 5. Is your unit a slip clutch unit or shear bolt only?
If you are a shear bolt unit stock up on shear bolts, you WILL break more. If you are a slip clutch unit go ahead and make sure it is slipping. Best way is to make it slip, loosen up your spring hdwe (count revolutions so you canget it back where it was). Once loose mark with pen across plates and slip clutch disc (so you can see if it has slipped). With the tension off of the clutch engage the pto once or twice, stop the machine and recheck your markes to verify there has been movement. Re-tighten, go back to cutting but still keep yourself a spare bolt or two. You will do this again the next season esp if kept outside where moisture can do its sticky business.
RoyJackson
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If you don't have the cutter's manual, you can download it from Land Pride's website.
Did you buy the cutter new? If so, did the dealer set it up? The reason I'm asking is 30 minutes of light brush mowing shouldn't shear the bolt. I'm wondering if the correct grade of bolt was installed when the PTO drive shaft was hooked up to the cutter's gearbox.
Another thing...did you engage the PTO at a low RPM? Engaging at a high RPM puts a pretty severe shock load on both the cutter and your tractor.
I suggest you install another shear bolt (make sure it's the correct grade!! I think it's grade 5, but I wouldn't bet on it), engage your PTO at a low RPM and see how everything works.
BTW, I have a Land Pride cutter too. It's a 10 year old 60" unit. Doesn't fit my Deere Quick Hitch upper hook either, BTW. I'll have to fabricate a link between the cutter and the Quick Hitch. Haven't had to use the cutter this year since the power company got off their butts and mowed the right of way themselves (I've done it for the last several years).
OP
denverdave66
Silver Member
yeah that is what happened problem is the bolt is stuck in the driveshaft any tips on getting it out? I have a landprice rcr1248.
GGB
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Get a good ball peen hammer and punches (sometimes called drifts) to knock out the portion of the shear bolt that is stuck in the PTO shaft. Keep the ball peen hammer, punches, wrenches to install the shear bolts and of course the shear bolts with you when you are in the field using your cutter. Be glad that the shear bolt did it's job and broke. Do not be tempted to use a higher grade bolt! Think of what would be happening if the shear bolt didn't break and something a lot more expensive broke, like your tractor-it won't always be under warranty.
Regarding the JD or Land Pride Quick Hitches, I've had both. Started with the JD, but thought it would be better to have the Land Pride for additional flexibility on some of my attachments. From my experience, the Land Pride is heavier built, but is less tolerant of adjustments than the JD. I probably should have just had my attachments modified to fit the JD, but it's really not a huge deal. But with both, you must use the correct bushings to work as advertised. It appears from a couple of your pictures that you do not have the correct bushings to fit the link pins. As you noted, get that right and you'll find it should work as it should. For me, a quick hitch is a must.
Read the manuals. Then go read the manuals. And then go read the manuals. I'm joking a little here to make the point. At some point the salesman won't be available, and you will have to learn the finer points of setting up and operating the equipment. That and time and experience will help you get the most out of your equipment. You've got a nice set up, and you'll soon find it will get to be easy. Good luck!
Regarding the JD or Land Pride Quick Hitches, I've had both. Started with the JD, but thought it would be better to have the Land Pride for additional flexibility on some of my attachments. From my experience, the Land Pride is heavier built, but is less tolerant of adjustments than the JD. I probably should have just had my attachments modified to fit the JD, but it's really not a huge deal. But with both, you must use the correct bushings to work as advertised. It appears from a couple of your pictures that you do not have the correct bushings to fit the link pins. As you noted, get that right and you'll find it should work as it should. For me, a quick hitch is a must.
Read the manuals. Then go read the manuals. And then go read the manuals. I'm joking a little here to make the point. At some point the salesman won't be available, and you will have to learn the finer points of setting up and operating the equipment. That and time and experience will help you get the most out of your equipment. You've got a nice set up, and you'll soon find it will get to be easy. Good luck!
KennyG
Elite Member
I think your BB is QH compatible, but the picture doesn't show us enough to confirm it.
If you make some measurements, you should find that the top link removable pin on the BB is 18 inches above the lower pins and the fixed bolt with bushing is 15 inches above the lower pins. You need to adjust the top hook on your QH so it is centered 15 inches above the lower hooks and then lengthen the top link so it will line up with the center bolt on the BB at the same time it lines up with the lower pins.
You should also get bushings for the lower pins so they match the lower QH hooks. Depending on the QH, this should be Cat 1 to Cat 3 bushings but a lot of people (and a few QHs) use Cat 1 to Cat 2 bushings.
If you make some measurements, you should find that the top link removable pin on the BB is 18 inches above the lower pins and the fixed bolt with bushing is 15 inches above the lower pins. You need to adjust the top hook on your QH so it is centered 15 inches above the lower hooks and then lengthen the top link so it will line up with the center bolt on the BB at the same time it lines up with the lower pins.
You should also get bushings for the lower pins so they match the lower QH hooks. Depending on the QH, this should be Cat 1 to Cat 3 bushings but a lot of people (and a few QHs) use Cat 1 to Cat 2 bushings.
beenthere
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ctlguy
Did you see the pic of the "snapped off" PTO shaft in the other thread?
Did you see the pic of the "snapped off" PTO shaft in the other thread?
loveourdeere
New member
Hello;
A couple of days ago I was at the JD dealer looking at JD quick hitches.
They hace introduced a modified version of the original. The new one has an adjustable top hook. Brackets on both sides of the hook which is bolted in place. My thought was to replace the bolts with Clevis Pins for quicker, tool free adjustment.
thanks, nicholas
A couple of days ago I was at the JD dealer looking at JD quick hitches.
They hace introduced a modified version of the original. The new one has an adjustable top hook. Brackets on both sides of the hook which is bolted in place. My thought was to replace the bolts with Clevis Pins for quicker, tool free adjustment.
thanks, nicholas