Need help with our B2400

[mikeandbecky]

We live appr. 70 miles away from the nearest Kubota dealer, so taking it there is tough... we are experiencing 2 problems... 1) my wife tipped over the tractor in June, and we can not raise the back blade. The front loader works fine, but when the back blade is put on it will not lift up?? 2) Just today I was out burning slash piles and the tractor started just fine... then all of a sudden, nothing.. and it is still just sitting out there?? Lights all work, but it doesn't even try to turn over?? Any suggestions would be appreciated.. Thanks, Mike

 

[Muhammad]

Well it sounds like something, or some things might have been damaged in that tip-over. Was the tractor checked/serviced since then? Depends on which way it tipped, etc. If the 3-point lift arms were pushed in (in a tip-back) then your first problem might be easily explained.

I'm pretty curious as to how the tip-over happened... what were the conditions? How did it tip over? It may be interesting to hear from a user who has tipped a tractor, since most of us don't really want to go out and try to see what happens. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif Hope she wasn't injured, and that the tractor didn't suffer too much damage. Have any details you care to share?

 

[TWINKLE_TOES]

Mike/Becky,
Bumber/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif
I don't have a B2400 but I do have a B21 and the shop manual.
With respect to the starting problem consider the following:
First the problem can be intermittent by this I mean the tractor may start at the worst possible time, when your fingers are in the fan while you are under the tractor looking at interlock switches or whatever. So think and be carefull. If any of the following is unclear STOP and ask questions.

Keep in mind this is all relative to the B21, I'm guessing they are similar.
The starting circuit provides batt voltage to the key switch thru a 50Amp slow blow fuse. The key switch provide the battery voltage to the starter relay thru series safety interlocks (clutch depressed, gear shift neutral,PTO gear shift OFF) to the starter relay. Heavy contacts in the relay apply the battery to the starter.
Place the Tractor in neutral, PTO Off, brake on.

Initial checks:
Battery and battery cables
50 Amp slow blow fuse

If these check OK then.

I would suspect the safety switches or wiring from the Key switch thur the interlock safety switches to the starter relay. I would probably start at the relay. Remove the relay and check for voltage @ terminal 3 use tractor structure for ground, should be battery voltage. Check voltage at terminal 1 with key off should be zip. Check terminal 1 voltage with key to start and clutch depressed. Should be batt voltage. If not one of the safety interlock switches is not engaged or the key switch is not functional. I would suspect the safety interlocks. If all this checks, reinstall the relay. Connect the voltmeter to the Starter motor look for voltage at the starter when the key is placed to start should be battery voltage.If OK bad stater, If not and all the above checked OK, suspect the relay. Place hand on relay have someone engage the start switch see if you can hear or feel it actuate.

Note: B21 starter relay
Terminal 1 low side of the relay coil routes to tractor frame.
Terminal 2 High side of the relay coil routes to Key switch thur 3 series safety switches.
Terminal 3 relay contact routes to Batt thru 50A slow blow fuse.
Terminal 4 relay contact routes to starter motor.

 

[hayden]

Try the simple things first. From your description is sounds like it will not crank. If it cranks but does not start you have a different problem.

Be sure the gear shift is in neutral, the PTOs are both disengaged, and the clutch is depressed. It's easy when getting on and off the tractor to catch the shift levers or PTO controls with your pants and move them enough to activate the various safety switches.

Check the fuses. Not just the ones in the fuse panel, but there is a separate one that dangles from a wire in the engine compartment.

If none of those work, check the safety switch to be sure they are adjusted to fully engage when the controls are in the right positions.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I recently purchased a 2410 and am very curious of your no-start and 3PH dilemma. Thank God your wife wasn't hurt. I've already found mine to be very tipsy which nearly caused my heart to leap into my throat when negotiating a slight incline on a sideways path when hauling firewood in the front bucket. I now keep my bucket VERY low when doing this. I read the other replies for which I didn't see further input from you. Thanks.

 

[PaulB]

As for the 3 point not working, make sure you didn't do what I did when I first got my B1700 - the lowering rate knob under the right front of the seat had been turned all the way in (clockwise), thereby freezing the 3 point arms in position. took me 2 hours of cussing to figure that one out. I also fell victim to the "won't start" bug once when I had accidently engaged the mid pto lever, probably by getting a sleeve or pant leg caught on it.I hope your problem is something simple like this.

 

[bpence]

Ed, one thing you may want to check is the spacing on the B2410's rear wheels. The wheel hubs can be adjusted outward on the axle and the wheels themselves can be turned to achieve a wider stance. I know when I bought my B7100 the previous owner had never adjusted the width of the rear wheels and the tractor had a pretty narrow stance. Rear wheel weights or ballast in the tires will help as well. Might be worth checking out.

Bob Pence

 

[sallygriffin]

Thanks for your input, Bob. I do plan to extend out the rear tires to get additional stability. That combined with the rear wheel ballast will surely help.

Here's another question. I have the 60" swath front mounted snow blower with chains installed on the rear tires. I've been told by many that I won't need chains installed on the front tires despite the fact that I'll be clearing my 600' long downhill drive. However, I've been told that it wouldn't hurt either. With that, in lieu of chains, why not simply install sheet metal screws in a uniform pattern on the tread portion of the front tires (industrial type)? My driveway's dirt and I don't plan to ever drive on asphalt, and they would remain on there year round. It seems to be a good idea cause it works well on my neighbor's riding lawn tractor tires. Feedback, please?

 

[MarkV]

Sally,

Welcome to the forum. We don't have much snow down here in Georgia although that won't stop me from throwing in my 2 cents worth./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif I think I would try doing the job with just the rear chains first. There has been a lot of talk about chains in the past, (might want to do a search)some people have been using rear only, others front only and some say never use front chains. (to much stress on the front gears) Sheet metel screws remind me of the studded tires we had when I was a kid. Seems like it would work, but those are expensive tires to add holes to.

Let us know what you do and how it works out.

MarkV