Need ideas for adapting boom pole to FEL/pallet forks

rbstern · Jan 20, 2021

Planning on building a pole barn this year, anticipate needing to do some high lift of beams and rafters. The lift is going to be higher than my FEL can reach.

I have a LMC Cat 1 boom pole I rarely use. I was thinking about attaching it either to my SSQA pallet fork frame, or to my FEL bucket. My pallet fork setup is Titan's budget/non-adjustable forks. Pic:

Boom pole looks like this:

Thinking I could make some type of fixture that would replace the forks, sliding in from the top of the fork receivers, maybe using the same pins. And mount the boom pole to whatever that fixture is. Use heavy chain or some type of drilled flat stock for the top link attachment.

A slightly more expensive option would be to buy a blank Titan SSQA plate and weld the boom pole to the plate. Practial, still cheap, but I dislike losing flexibility (rear lift use of the boom pole) even though I rarely use it.

A still more expensive but more versatile option would be mounting something like Pat's quick hitch arms or a HF quick hitch to the front of the pallet fork frame.

And, of course, more expensive still, I could also just by a Cat 1 adapter for my FEL.

Interested in thoughts and experiences.

Jw5875 · Jan 20, 2021

Well before you mount that pole and start lifting,
Consider the weight, height and angle.
Serious consideration is to be given for some ballast
on the rear.
Beside building the adapter, consider some
additional cleaning for the underwear!!!!!!!!!!
Here's what I made from an old quick hitch
to put my blade on the front for snow plowing.

JW5875

"My guns and wife are both loud,
However my guns don't make my ears ring"

rbstern · Jan 20, 2021

Jw5875 said:
Well before you mount that pole and start lifting,
Consider the weight, height and angle.
Serious consideration is to be given for some ballast
on the rear.
Beside building the adapter, consider some
additional cleaning for the underwear!!!!!!!!!!
Here's what I made from an old quick hitch
to put my blade on the front for snow plowing.

Very nice!

Regarding weight and balance: I expect to be lifting light loads (single pieces of dimensional lumber will be the main lifting). 99% of the time, I have a subframe mounted backhoe as my counter weight.

I find, as I get older, my spidey-sense of machine-induced danger gets sharper. I think of dicey things I did 10 years ago, and my next thought is, "no way I would do that now."

fried1765 · Jan 20, 2021

rbstern said:
Planning on building a pole barn this year, anticipate needing to do some high lift of beams and rafters. The lift is going to be higher than my FEL can reach.

I have a LMC Cat 1 boom pole I rarely use. I was thinking about attaching it either to my SSQA pallet fork frame, or to my FEL bucket. My pallet fork setup is Titan's budget/non-adjustable forks. Pic:

View attachment 683857

Boom pole looks like this:

View attachment 683858

Thinking I could make some type of fixture that would replace the forks, sliding in from the top of the fork receivers, maybe using the same pins. And mount the boom pole to whatever that fixture is. Use heavy chain or some type of drilled flat stock for the top link attachment.

A slightly more expensive option would be to buy a blank Titan SSQA plate and weld the boom pole to the plate. Practial, still cheap, but I dislike losing flexibility (rear lift use of the boom pole) even though I rarely use it.

A still more expensive but more versatile option would be mounting something like Pat's quick hitch arms or a HF quick hitch to the front of the pallet fork frame.

And, of course, more expensive still, I could also just by a Cat 1 adapter for my FEL.

Interested in thoughts and experiences.

That lightly fabricated boom pole will definitely not safely lift very much weight at it's tip.

jmc · Jan 20, 2021

A lot of options, depending on your tools, available materials, and budget.

I would avoid using a chain for the top link in case you were ever stretched out to near vertical it could come back on you. I think aftermarket top links are inexpensive and the adjustment might be handy sometimes.

The inserts you mentioned that slide in from the top might be a good way to adapt that Speedco type 3PH frame into your pallet fork frame and still be removable.

rbstern · Jan 20, 2021

fried1765 said:
That lightly fabricated boom pole will definitely not safely lift very much weight at it's tip.

Correct. It's rated for 500lbs at the end-ring. For this application, I don't anticipate lifting anythng that weighs more than 200lbs.

Xfaxman · Jan 20, 2021

rbstern said:
Planning on building a pole barn this year, anticipate needing to do some high lift of beams and rafters. The lift is going to be higher than my FEL can reach.

--------------------------------------------

And, of course, more expensive still, I could also just by a Cat 1 adapter for my FEL.

Interested in thoughts and experiences.

This gets my vote because you can use other 3 point implements on it. Would be very handy with a landscape rake.

I have one with extra rollback built in, that gets a lot of use:

Diggin It · Jan 20, 2021

How high is your peak/ridge planned for?

When I did mine over the last couple of years, I made sure it wouldn't be beyond a height I could reach by ladder or scaffold. Ended up being around 13' with 8' walls as i remember. From there, I was able to hoist rafters into place using a rope and pulley setup (not quite a block and tackle). I'd set one end on the wall top, then go up the ladder or scaffold, pull the ridge end into place, tie it off, then fasten/secure.

user.69169 · Jan 20, 2021

You considered talkin to a life insurance agent who can also sell you disability coverage?

Smokeydog · Jan 20, 2021

Forklift Telescoping Jib Boom Crane, 4000 Lb. Capacity Amazon.com: Forklift Telescoping Jib Boom Crane, 4 Lb. Capacity: Home Improvement

Bought this for $100 slightly used. Been handy around the farm doing jobs like you are describing. Don’t skimp on lifting safety. Plenty of other dangers to mitigate.

i7win7 · Jan 20, 2021

Different style of forks and boom pole used 3pt drawbars to clamp it up. Lift tested with old engine block.

Loaded tires & 700# rear blade, 70's era ford, real cast iron frame.
pin on forks, if using SSQA consider a way to lock it to the FEL

rbstern · Jan 20, 2021

Diggin It said:
How high is your peak/ridge planned for?

When I did mine over the last couple of years, I made sure it wouldn't be beyond a height I could reach by ladder or scaffold. Ended up being around 13' with 8' walls as i remember. From there, I was able to hoist rafters into place using a rope and pulley setup (not quite a block and tackle). I'd set one end on the wall top, then go up the ladder or scaffold, pull the ridge end into place, tie it off, then fasten/secure.

Peak will be about 18', but I am looking at a monitor style plan, which means I can build the high roof using the second floor as a scaffold, and use a ladder there. Reality is, I could probably do it by hand, but it would be nice to lift the bigger boards with the boom pole and just set them in place before fastening.

the old grind · Jan 20, 2021

Farther the load gets from pins the more net lift you lose.

Friend used a smaller bucket truck than mine to raise barn trusses. (Chevy C-30 vs F-450 SD)

Lift & set them upside down, then turn upright to install/brace. (the part you knew already)

LD48750 · Jan 20, 2021

7/8" eye bolts through your forks or bucket.
Put them on the boom pole and attach to your bucket.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardwar...in-Shoulder-Pattern-1-Pack-320614-0/203809946

BoylermanCT · Jan 20, 2021

Did exactly what you are planning this past summer. Raised a pole barn and set trusses on 12' walls. Bought a 20' square pole for $100 and attached a Harbor Freight electric hoist. Allowed us to easily lift the trusses and raise them up and down with precision to set them exactly where we needed them. Supported the pole with chains attached to the front end loader mount. Built a jig to attach to the trusses so we could pick them up across multiple places so we would not damage or overstress the trusses. Screwed the truss to the jig so there was no chance of dropping the truss accidentally.

3Ts · Jan 20, 2021

For my version I used a 4" "H" beam 20' long with brackets welded on so it would slide over my forks and a chain to hold it from sliding off if I pointed it down. I set trusses on top of a 10' wall and 24' wide building so I had to reach over 12' to set them. Trusses are 24' wide by 5' tall. My loader is rated for 3000#, but with the 20' extension I was limited to just a few hundred. The 24' trusses weighed about 150#.

sodamo · Jan 21, 2021

I did this when building my house. There are threads with pics elsewhere here on TBN.

I welded a QH to a QA plate so I could also use landscape rake.
I also made an extension for the boom pole, also added a 12v winch. Lifted a lot of stuff, beams and roofing panels. Watch your counter weight and do be careful, but very doable and productive. Sometimes wife would work the tractor when I placed the load.

mwb · Jan 21, 2021

BoylermanCT said:
Did exactly what you are planning this past summer. Raised a pole barn and set trusses on 12' walls. Bought a 20' square pole for $100 and attached a Harbor Freight electric hoist. Allowed us to easily lift the trusses and raise them up and down with precision to set them exactly where we needed them. Supported the pole with chains attached to the front end loader mount. Built a jig to attach to the trusses so we could pick them up across multiple places so we would not damage or overstress the trusses. Screwed the truss to the jig so there was no chance of dropping the truss accidentally.

View attachment 683877

I second this! For my pole I simply added a short length of chain and some metal hooks to pick up trusses. I just finished placing trusses on a 30 x 50 shop, 16 foot walls and 5x12 pitch. Easy-peasy. With this kind of extension you learn that the curl circuit is too fast, easier to tweak placement using 'angle of the dangle' and the loader circuit.

LouNY · Jan 21, 2021

The straight boom fastened to the lower edge of a bucket or forks or SSQA adapter with a couple of stabilizing chains will do a good job.
I don't know about the others that posted pictures of the quick hitchs mounted to the SSQA plates, but when I did mine I did it quick and easy.
I just welded the quick hitch to the plate, with the geometry of my loader that was a mistake I should have spaced out the bottom of the quick hitch
three or four inches from the plate many times I can't get the curl back I'm looking for when using it.