Need input on TnT option

[Rolando]

I'm wondering whether I really need the top and tilt option for my 3PH. I was thinking that I would need it to use with the box blade I'm getting, but I'm not sure how critical it will be to have the TnT for what I need to do.

I'm going to be building a house on very flat land, so I will be bringing in a lot of fill to build up the house and the area around the house for better drainage. I was thinking that I would need the tilt function to create the slope away from the house, but I don't know if this is correct.

Maybe you all could tell me how the tnt is actually used.

 

[Bird]

Rolando, I've seen people who could work a box blade quite efficiently without top 'n tilt, and I eventually learned to do a reasonable job myself, but not very efficiently. Then I put top 'n tilt on my B2710 and could do a really good job in about one-fourth the time and use a lot less energy (mine and the tractor's). /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif So while it ain't a "necessity", I hope I don't have to use a box blade again without top 'n tilt.

 

[jeffinsgf]

"Top" is very helpful. Tilt is too, but the advantages and disadvantages depend on the tractor you're dealing with. If you have a backhoe attachment, and you have to remove the 3pt arms to attach the backhoe, then the decision on a tilt gets more complicated. I gave up on it on my JD 4410. The removal of the hitch arms and the addition of a second SCV just became more burden than necessary for the few times that I would want to scrape at an angle.

I think that in pulling the grade away from your house, you will be pulling perpindicular to the house, rather than parallel, making the "tilt" less necessary.

If you're not going to be using a backhoe and/or your backhoe does not require the removal of the hitch arms, then I would add the tilt, too. Otherwise, consider adding a top cylinder only.

 

[Rolando]

I should have mentioned on my original post that this will be for a B3030 cab model, which doesn't accept a BH, so the need to remove 3PH arms wouldn't be a factor (although the 3PH arms don't get removed with the frame-mounted BH for the non-cab version anyway).

 

[Rolando]

Thanks, Bird. This is the kind of input I need. I have absolutely no experience operating heavy equipment of any kind (large or small) so I don't know anything about the skills that I need to develop or how any equipment options will fit in.

 

[Boomerang1]

The main reason for a top cylinder on a BB is to change the cutting angle of the BB. If you retract the cylinder, the blade cuts deeper, which is helpful on the initial grading. If you extend the cylinder, the blade cuts less deep, for final grading. If you extend the cylinder out far enough, the front the front blade will lift off the ground and the front of the rear blade will be touching the ground which will give you the same results as back dragging with the front bucket. Also when you get good enough you can change the angle of the blade while moving so you can cut down high spots and fill in low spots easily. I don't even look back most of the time when I am grading. I can tell the position of my blade by how it pulls through the dirt or gravel. When I see a high spot, I retract the cylinder, cut the high spot down and then feather the cylinder out to empty the BB. When blading while backing up, reverse the action of the cylinder.

 

[Wall]

If you don't have a tnt you will have to get off the tractor every time you need to adjust your hitch.

 

[btolle]

If the only time you will use the box blade is to level the pad for the house I doubt that it is worth the investment. As someone already pointed out, you will do the slope by running perpindicular to the slope anyway. While TnT would be convenient it would not be a necessity.

If you are going to be doing other leveling and land contouring it is worth it.

I use my box blade and straight blade for a lot of leveling, about 3 acres worth, and it is well worth it for me.

EDIT: One thing I forgot to mention is that you can use the FEL for sloping the ground away from the house. I use the FEL for finish grading by putting it in the "float" position and backdragging the lip of the bucket and curling the bucket up to taper off an edge.

Bill Tolle

 

[JoshJ]

i wish i had experience on a TnT setup, but you can be fairly effective without it, as Bird said. it just takes longer to do and figure out. i have a BB w/o it, and the little bit i use it for, i find it handy to either have the top link a little short or a little long, and if i want to cut in, go forward (if top is short) and if i want to finish grade, go in reverse. if the link is longer, the opposite would come into play. its not quick, its not pretty, but it works enough for me. (also, your BB will need front AND back blades). also, my 3PH has three holes for the top link to hook into, and i'll bet if i switch holes, i could change the angle of the blade, not sure if that would be effective or not /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif also, like the others said, i dont think you would use tilt enough to justify it

 

[Ronster]

Do you need a rear hydraulic remote to install a TnT setup? And if I want a Tnt, should I have my Kubota dealer install it when I order my tractor or should I go with an after market setup?