Need Insight/Advise on Changing Well Pressure Tank

[Gordon Gould]

Not a tractor issue but this is the best place I know to get solid advise on most anything. I need to change out my water logged pressure tank. I would like to be ready with everything I need and have it go smooth. I have a new tank that is exactly the same as the old. My initial plan is to remove the old tank and header tee by disconnecting the union on the house side and the plastic well water pipe on the well side. Then transfer the header tee to the new tank. All the joints are tight ( leak free ) and all appears in good shape. This is what I have



The thing that concerns me most is the plastic well pipe connection - how hard will it be to take apart. I have no experience with this type of pipe what ever it is. The plastic pipe seems very tough and fairly rigid. Not a very thick wall though. I will not be able to twist the connection, only pull with the tank still attached. Are there any special methods needed for this or will it come apart easily ??????? OR should I expect to have to cut the pipe and change the plumbing in that area ????? If so, suggestions on how would be appreciated. Here is a close up of the brass to plastic connection. Thanks !!!



gg

 

[Doofy]

I would cut back the plastic pipe and add in a second union. Never need to worry about it again.

 

[Stimw]

Warm the plastic pipe up with a heat gun or hair dryer.
Are you sure the old tank is bad?
Over time they can loose the air pressure and need to be aired back up.

 

[Billrog]

I believe those tanks have a nitrogen filled bladder so you don't air them back up. The blue pipe looks like well drop pipe you may be able to pry it off with a screw driver and when installing the new hose clamps one should be reversed to give even pressure on both sides . A union installed there is a good idea as well.

 

[4get gto]

I believe those tanks have a nitrogen filled bladder so you don't air them back up. The blue pipe looks like well drop pipe you may be able to pry it off with a screw driver and when installing the new hose clamps one should be reversed to give even pressure on both sides . A union installed there is a good idea as well.

Not saying you can't use nitrogen we always use compressed air. I would check the pressure of the tank using an ordinary tire pressure gauge. Should be around 32# +/- .
On your plastic pipe like the other guys said. Try warming it up or put union in.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Pretty sure the tank is bad. Amtrol WX-203. It has a valve stem to add air to set/adjust the pre-charge. For a couple years the pre-charge has been slowly leaking off and I have been resetting it to 28 lbs when I noticed the pump cycle to fast. Every 6 months or so. The bladder slow leak must have finally ripped because I cannot pressurize at all now. This is with the tank drain open.

I have had plenty of warning but still am not ready - Duh !!

gg

 

[4get gto]

I have a very similar setup.



Only thing I want to put on yet is a cycle stop valve.




That allows to keep a constant pressure when using the shower or filling your pool ect. As long as your using 1 gallon per min.

 

[Doofy]

Not saying you can't use nitrogen we always use compressed air. I would check the pressure of the tank using an ordinary tire pressure gauge. Should be around 32# +/- .
On your plastic pipe like the other guys said. Try warming it up or put union in.

Yes, psi should be set with the tank empty of Water. 32psi would be ok but it is normally set to the pump "cut-in" pressure.

 

[Beltzington]

Copper and brass plumbing is sure pretty but all of those threaded connections are going to be a PIA if one starts leaking when you disconnect the ends. For $20 you can replace all of those fittings with sched 40 PVC and only have three threaded connections, one at the tank and the two ends. Unions are great in some instances but with PVC it is often easier to just replace everything. If you use PVC you can just cut the blue pipe off the existing plumbing and buy a new PVC to threaded adapter and adjust the fit with PVC pipe. Sched 40 is rated 300+PSI with cold water so no worries about busting, if this work requires a permit I would see what the local code requires.

Is that copper line for a remote pressure switch or an ice machine?

 

[Gordon Gould]

Well I was able to get it done. That joint definitely came hard. Between the heat gun and being able to rotate the tank about 45* it finally broke free then it was just prying a little at a time with a big screw driver and a bar. Thanks for the heat gun suggestion !! Made all the difference.

Unless there is a premature failure I won't be around to do this next time so I put it back the way it was. Otherwise I would have put in a union which is a good idea.

gg