Need more help with my ym2000. (Over heating)

[clemsonfor]

There should be a decent flow. After 5 mins you either have a blown head gasket or a bad pump would be my guess, that's almost no time! Or your rad is clogged but if you said it takes the whole hose flow and doesn't overflow that kind of rules that out.

If it were mine I would pull the pump I think.

Are you the guy that just got this tractor for $900? If not what's the history of it, can you bushhog for more than 5 mins? Run a tiller , pull a box?

 

[clemsonfor]

Well I keep thinking that if the water flows good when back flushing then there isn't a blockage anywhere. Going to pull pump tonight.

Also take that heater thing there talking about out, even just temorary, unless it's literally a straight through pipe but if it has fins inside you know it's restricting.

 

[dirtracer7x]

Yes I paid 900. They used it weekly to brush hog around a church. Starter went out and left rear axle seal is leaking bad soaking brake so they didn't want to fix it and upgraded. I bought it and has pretty much just sat since February. Finally getting around to fixing it all. I agree on pump and should know more in the morning. My thought when buying it was at that price even if have to put 1500 into it I'm still going to have a great little tractor

 

[California]

Yes I paid 900 ... at that price even if have to put 1500 into it I'm still going to have a great little tractor

You are in good shape in that regard. After you get it set up for another 30 years use you won't have much cost invested. My experience with the YM240 (a near twin) was similar, a month of fixing a lot of 'neglected maintenance' - fluids & filters, bashed headlights, buying (used) and installing the fuel filter assembly that should have been on it, etc. As I recall under $500. Almost nothing ever since.

Your axle seal and saturated brake are separate issues. The brake works on an intermediate shaft, forward from and separate from the axle. It's easy to take its cover off to see what's going on. You need to pull the little brake drum inside there to get to the oil seal behind it.

If there is a chance of compression gasses in the coolant then there can be water getting into the cylinders when its parked. Be sure to use the compression release for every start until this is resolved, to blow out any water before firing off. Water is incompressible, in a cylinder it can shatter a piston or bend a rod.

 

[clemsonfor]

Yes I paid 900. They used it weekly to brush hog around a church. Starter went out and left rear axle seal is leaking bad soaking brake so they didn't want to fix it and upgraded. I bought it and has pretty much just sat since February. Finally getting around to fixing it all. I agree on pump and should know more in the morning. My thought when buying it was at that price even if have to put 1500 into it I'm still going to have a great little tractor

I'm not trashing the tractor, you got a good buy. I want just trying to figure out who you were and if you were the one that just bought it.

Also the axle seal will not soak the brakes, that would be the brake shaft seal. I also have a post on that one, but they are different seals.

 

[dirtracer7x]

Ok here I go....
It fires right up after sitting a day or two so I don't think it's a head gasket or it would be hyd locked or struggle to start.
Thanks for advise on brakes and axle seal. I looked at it closer tonight and it has tons of grass wrapped around it. I will start by cleaning that out. Maybe some is under the seal.
I pulled the water pump and all looked good then I looked in the now drained radiator and Bam there is the problem. It clogged.
Going to take it and have it cleaned and pressure tested and try again.
Next will be fixing the popping out of high range. I have it bungee corded back right now but little things like that bug me.

 

[normde2001]

A proper back-flush should have blown that out. How did you do it?.

 

[dirtracer7x]

Disconnected the top hose from the radiator put the water hose in the radiator hose and clamped it tight and let it flush for 5mins

 

[California]

Bam there is the problem. It clogged.
Going to take it and have it cleaned and pressure tested and try again.
Next will be fixing the popping out of high range. I have it bungee corded back right now but little things like that bug me.View attachment 520112

Comment - that 5300 x 3000 photo took a while to download then was shrunk to 20% to see on this laptop screen. You might want to resize to 1024 x 768 or so for posting, it's easier for those rural readers on dialup. (I have 20mbs FTTN and it was still slow to arrive).

Popping out of high range:
Long ago Danny1 (no longer active here) said he repaired these in his pro shop but it requires replacing both gears that are worn, any lesser effort isn't satisfactory. Mine is borderline, maybe once a year it will jump out despite the bungee I have on it. I'm not going to spend the money to split the tractor (with loader!) to get in there until it becomes necessary. In 13 years it hasn't gotten worse so I'm still a ways from fixing that. My bungee is set up to slide up and down the shifter so it doesn't need to be removed to make a hi/lo shift, kinda crude but 'good enough for the girls I go with' in the words of an old Carpenter buddy.

Long ago a friend's father ran a dirt track 'hardtop' '36 Ford. There was a hook welded to the dashboard to
put the floorshift lever into, to hold it in second gear no matter what. We both might try something like this before making the effort to tear down the transmission for what is only a minor nuisance. Maybe a metal 'gate' with high and low notches, or something similar.

 

[winston1]

I ditto what California said. Not fact but my opinion the worn cogs on those gears are the cause of the biggest majority of the jump outs. #4 and #25 on this drawing. TRANSMISSION_INTERNAL: Yanmar Tractor Parts