Need project advice

/ Need project advice #1  

Ruark

Silver Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Messages
112
Tractor
Mahindra 4025
I recently returned to a project I've been working on: converting a 250 gallon propane tank to a pasture roller.

The tank is empty, and all the fittings ground off and covered with 1/8" plate. The water fill/drain plug has been installed.

The next step is some kind of axle. The most obvious way is to drill a 2" hole in each end and run a 2" round bar through it. Then weld each end where the bar comes out of the hole, to make it solid and so the water won't leak out. Then build the frame around it, using pillow bearings on the round bar.

Thing is, that's a pretty expensive and somewhat "fancy" way to build it. That 2" steel bar alone will run $100 - $200. I've thought about welding the head of a 1" bolt to the end, but I'm afraid that would break off under the strain of pulling a 3,000 pound roller over uneven ground.

Any creative types have a better way to do this?
 
/ Need project advice #2  
I recently returned to a project I've been working on: converting a 250 gallon propane tank to a pasture roller.

The tank is empty, and all the fittings ground off and covered with 1/8" plate. The water fill/drain plug has been installed.

The next step is some kind of axle. The most obvious way is to drill a 2" hole in each end and run a 2" round bar through it. Then weld each end where the bar comes out of the hole, to make it solid and so the water won't leak out. Then build the frame around it, using pillow bearings on the round bar.

Thing is, that's a pretty expensive and somewhat "fancy" way to build it. That 2" steel bar alone will run $100 - $200. I've thought about welding the head of a 1" bolt to the end, but I'm afraid that would break off under the strain of pulling a 3,000 pound roller over uneven ground.

Any creative types have a better way to do this?
What about using 2" black iron pipe? 10' should run you about $25 at a plumbing supply house.
 
/ Need project advice #3  
schedule 80 black Iron Water Pipe should work well could even go with Galvanized just grind ALL of it off at the weld point it is deadly welding it...
 
/ Need project advice #4  
Go to a car wreckers, get the cheapest stub axles or hubs & weld them to ends of the tank only ........you may need to reinforce the tank ends with some scrap offcuts you might have laying around but it should last ok
 
/ Need project advice
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I appreciate the advice. Right now I'm moving more towards the idea of using 2" or maybe even 2 1/4 or 2 1/2" black iron pipe instead of the cold rolled steel bar. My main concern is that it HOLD. Once it's run through the tank and welded at the holes, it would be a ***** to replace if it broke off.
 
/ Need project advice #6  
My main concern is that it HOLD. Once it's run through the tank and welded at the holes, it would be a ***** to replace if it broke off.

You don't plan to try to lift it full do you? As long as you're just pulling it there isn't really that much load on the pins. My roller is 1000# and it has a flimsy little frame and I think 1/2" axle stub which works fine.
Not sure where you live, but I left mine full of water and it froze, pushed the whole end out and did some damage, I had to reweld it. So if that's an issue tie a string around your finger so you remember to drain it in the fall.
 
/ Need project advice
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Looks like the Sch. 80 black pipe isn't an option. It's pretty expensive. For example, Grainger has 10' lengths for $183 plus shipping. The biggest Lowe's has is puny 1" junk.

I kinda like the idea of using spindles and hubs, but I would really need to see a picture of how that would work. Mounting it on a flat plate would be problematic, because the end of the tank is rounded.
 
/ Need project advice #8  
Mounting it on a flat plate would be problematic, because the end of the tank is rounded.

Nope. Just cut out a 6"-8" hole and fill it with a thick disk. Maybe 3/8" to 1/2" plate. There ya go, a flat surface.
 
/ Need project advice #9  
I think I would just go ahead and use the 1 inch pipe. The only thing that could break it is bending. Build up the connection point with some rings of steel and keep the distance from the end of the tank to the bearing as short as possible and I can't imagine it breaking from pulling.
 
/ Need project advice #10  
I love this thread already.
girl.jpg

beaty.jpg
 
/ Need project advice #11  
A thought is weld your spindle into a hole on a piece of channel iron. This will allow you get good welds, easier to square, in the event they need to be replaced the channel can be clipped of cleaner than the rod or pipe. First class would be a sch 80 pipe welded to channel. Spindle pins in pipe for easy repair. Looking forward to your progress!
 
/ Need project advice #12  
take a plate and drill holes in it, to match a rim, or take a rim center, put some spacers, so you can get behind it to fasten nuts to it, and bolt on some hubs, and let the spindles stick out, and attach your hitch to the spindles,


basically making a reverse wheel if needed you can service it,
 
/ Need project advice
  • Thread Starter
#13  
OK, different approach. Forget running a pipe through the tank. Here's a picture of something that might work. All welds would be done with 1/8" 7018AC stick, which I'm fairly good with and is my standard go-to rod around the farm.

Weld a short length (say 3 inches) of 3 inch pipe (maybe just plain oilfield-type pipe) on each end.

Weld a short length of a slightly smaller pipe onto the frame. This goes inside of the pipe welded to the end of the tank. Keep a good glob of grease inside there.

roller.jpg


Wouldn't this work? I'm open to advice on specifics, e.g. - should the frame pipe be inside the tank pipe, as in the drawing, or outside? Would 3" and 3 1/2" be good enough, or should it be larger or smaller? What about the frame? I'm thinking something like 3 inch square tubing. In any case, this would be a helluva lot easier and cheaper than messing with spindles, or running rod through the tank and using pillow bearings.
 
/ Need project advice #14  
Ruark said:
I recently returned to a project I've been working on: converting a 250 gallon propane tank to a pasture roller.

The tank is empty, and all the fittings ground off and covered with 1/8" plate. The water fill/drain plug has been installed.

The next step is some kind of axle. The most obvious way is to drill a 2" hole in each end and run a 2" round bar through it. Then weld each end where the bar comes out of the hole, to make it solid and so the water won't leak out. Then build the frame around it, using pillow bearings on the round bar.

Thing is, that's a pretty expensive and somewhat "fancy" way to build it. That 2" steel bar alone will run $100 - $200. I've thought about welding the head of a 1" bolt to the end, but I'm afraid that would break off under the strain of pulling a 3,000 pound roller over uneven ground.

Any creative types have a better way to do this?

Could always use hollow pipe thru the middle, and use shorter pieced of bar on each end, plug welded into the tube , that will help lower the cost
 
/ Need project advice #15  
The biggest problem is ANYTHING welded to the ends of the tank are depending on the ends of the tank to become structural to the dragging & banging and rotating off center forces. Something that will quickly fatigue metal is not done correctly. Most manufactures do it with a Thru Rod that supports both sides and center of the roller. The forces become mostly shear rather than offset bending motions.

the drawing above has a frame all around the tank which is done with a thru rod is not required only a "A" frame with the back open.

You can buy "Stub Axles" at most TSC or Trailer Stores (here Carry-On Trailer Spindle Kit, 1-3/8 in. - 0175203 | Tractor Supply Company ) and weld them into a HW Pipe that is THRU the roller. Install either flat 4 bolt flange bearings to the axle size or go with 5 bolt hub like this ( Carry-On Trailer™ 5-Bolt Hub Assembly Kit, 1750 lbs. - 0175009 | Tractor Supply Company ) attached (revers) to the A-Frame hanger that is pulling the unit.

Then have FUN... :D
 
/ Need project advice
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Could always use hollow pipe thru the middle, and use shorter pieced of bar on each end, plug welded into the tube , that will help lower the cost

That's looking like a better and better option. Put 3" holes through each end, run hollow pipe through it and weld in place. Then the frame can have inserts like in the drawing.
 

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