Need to move an 800+ pound concrete slab.

[ovrszd]

Maybe I should re-phrase, there are no visible cracks on the surface or sides of the slab , there easily could be cracks inside of my expansion joint cuts, I anticipated that on the very end and side of my slab where my cuts ended that it would crack all the way to the bottom of the slab but it hasn't as of yet.

Yep. Neither has mine. That I can see.

 

[DieselBound]

My little B7800 has moved a LOT of weight by catching the corner of something and spinning it. Can be a slow process, but it can be done when lifting isn't possible. I do this very thing by hand: spin heavy objects across the floor.

I'd run straps or such off a corner and spin (pulling, yes, from the loader- that's not enough weight to bother the loader- it's only partial weight).

As Bruce noted, poles/logs. Pretty standard way of moving large objects. Requires firm ground or at least some "tracks" to lay down under the poles/logs. I used equipment rollers to move a large shed: ran on 2x10s; stressful as the shed would slip off rollers and or my "tracks".

The bigger issue is LANDING the pad, how to keep from messing up the landing spot. Tracks and rollers are the least disruptive. Trick is getting the rollers and tracks out from under the pad when situated. This requires a bit of thinking. If using only two jacks it'll require a couple of lifts, one for removing the rollers (remove all rollers first) then removing the tracks; not sure if one could rely on lifting the entire pad on four jacks. And, of course, you need clearance for operating the jacks, and since the pad is on-ground you're going to have to dig HOLES in the appropriate locations along where the pad's edges are going to end up (and extend those holes out such that you can pull the jacks out of each hole): hole depth required depends on hydraulic jack's dimensions- enough extension to hold slab edge UP and to allow for jack to be removed from under the pad (too shallow and you can't drop the jack down far enough to get it out- one could, I suppose, dig one out, but figure it correctly up-front and avoid the hassle).

I used this basic strategy (less the spinning part) on my shed move. Above ground and landing the shed on a prepared site: dropped on to a block foundation. Rollers. Tracks. Jacks. And "holes" (removed blocks) for jack points for lifting to remove rollers and tracks and to lower down on to foundation.

 

[Kschwennsen]

I've had to do this with alot bigger and I just wrap a chain around the best I can, lift with the 3point and drag. then use a big bar to sin it as needed.

 

[dh206]

A little BX 3pt could lift it as long as it was oriented vertical on a carry-all in the back or something (close to the tractor), but you'd need counterweight in the bucket and it would be a bit awkward (hills or angles would be terribly unstable, but 100% flat would be okay; 5' x3' wouldn't be bad though).
I'm with the chains and drag. That should work just fine hooked to the drawbar You could even put some nice stout rod between the 3 point nocks and hook chains to that. You'll have more power on the 3ph than the bucket, regardless.

 

[Old Grunt]

This wouldn't be much of a project for most of you, but remember, I only have a pipsqueak of a tractor.

Slab is a little less than 3' x 5' and roughly 3-4" thick. As I recall, it took either 10 or 11 80lb bags. I know I can't lift it fully off the ground. Not even gonna try. Might be possible with the 3pt if I had the right rigging, which I don't. Specs say 966 pounds, but I don't know how I'd rig it to lift.

Plan is to lift a corner (FEL should handle that) enough to get a steel cable under it; repeat on the other end. Use the cable to drag the slab. Not sure if I can do that with the FEL or if it would risk torquing something. Will probably try using the rear drawbar.

It only has to go about 15 feet, but has to be turned 90 degrees. New location is set, series of concrete blocks as a perimeter. They're partially filled with concrete, then leveled with crushed rock and the center area is filled with crushed rock.

Plan is to position the slab to one side, then set 2 x 4s to use as slides to drag the slab into place. Lift and remove the 2x4s.

How far off am I?

Ground is too muddy now, so this is several days out. Figure I need 3-4 dry days before I can start and those dry spells have been very few and far between in recent months.



Edit .....


Of course, the other option is to pour another slab for about $45-50 or so at $4-something a bag. The existing slab is sort of in the way, but could be worked around.

I definitely go with the chains instead of cable or rope. I've had the sharp edges on the cement eventually rub and cut them. The other thing rather than use 2X4's, go out and get some schedule 40 pipe for rollers. It's how the Egyptians move blocks for the pyramids. I've done it before, get one edge up on the piping and then you can easily roll the thing wherever you want and even pivot it to some degree.

 

[Tony H]

Be like Bob.

how to move a small concrete slab

I would go with this. Chain on one end with a couple of pipes, fence rails, logs that you keep putting under the front as they roll out the back.

 

[greenerdreams]

i have moved a few sheds that and multiple hot tubs that weighed way more than 800 lbs. everyone has given some pretty good ideas and it is feasible most of those ways. how i did, it. use a lever or a jack under the front edge(direction you are moving). a 5' breaker bar i have for digging post holes works perfect with a chunk of firewood or blocking near the edge. lift it and block it, may have to do both sides to get it high enough if you do the whole sandwich i discuss next. place some boards or beams on the ground in a path to new spot. use any type of round item that can hold the weight(even pvc works). if the bottom of the concrete is rough place a board on top of the roller but under the concrete(basically a sandwich of concrete/board/roller/board/ground. if you extend the boards past the end of the concrete and screw a cross board on at the back of the lip of the concrete you can pull from the front of the boards by drilling or screwing a point of connection for rope/chain/cable whatever, the pulling force is not that high. pull with tractor to new spot. now the tricky part is as others have said, bedding the new concrete. just use an inch of sand and it will set without cracking, sand will compact enough to account for variations but not so much to have the concrete settle uneven. or just smash it and pour a new one.

 

[Diggin It]

It's 15-20' so I don't see steel cables chafing and breaking, nor do I see an issue dragging without rollers since it's soft sandy/clay mix soil. The 2xs would only be to elevate to get the cables or chains under it and then to help position.

But I found out the cables I have are lighter than I remembered ... only 3MM and rated for 1,350 lbs, so I guess they're out. I have a chain that should work and some old clothes/rags to cushion the corners to help prevent cracking.

But as I stated above, I intend to try it with the backhoe as a crane as suggested. Since it's such a short distance and has to be rotated 90 degrees, I may try, lift, swing, set, reposition, repeat as necessary rather than trying to drive on soft soil with a slight slope. That way I can leave the outriggers set for each move.

If it cracks/breaks, so be it. I'll just be delayed a few days for the new pad to cure.


I thought I might have a two day window to work this weekend, but the area is still too wet, so I'm not sure now. Guess I'll take a look in the morning.

 

[Diggin It]

Moved. BH lifted it, but didn't really want to. Had to coax it a bit. Combination of FEL and BH, couple of chains, a few 2x4s and 4x4s, lifting, dragging, pushing got it done.

Had fresh (at the time) loose crushed rock under it when I poured it, so it came out quite easy.

Slid fairly well across the open soil.

As it sits, it's within a half a bubble down hill. I'll probably try to tweak that a bit, but it may work better this way for drainage. Dead on side to side. It should settle down into the new crushed rock a little bit with rains, but I don't expect it to go off level.

No cracking. Chipped a couple of underneath corners is all.

Not easy, but no where near as difficult as I expected.

 

[MAX-24-Dean]

Moved. BH lifted it, but didn't really want to. Had to coax it a bit. Combination of FEL and BH, couple of chains, a few 2x4s and 4x4s, lifting, dragging, pushing got it done.

Had fresh (at the time) loose crushed rock under it when I poured it, so it came out quite easy.

View attachment 741079

Slid fairly well across the open soil.

View attachment 741080


View attachment 741081

As it sits, it's within a half a bubble down hill. I'll probably try to tweak that a bit, but it may work better this way for drainage. Dead on side to side. It should settle down into the new crushed rock a little bit with rains, but I don't expect it to go off level.

No cracking. Chipped a couple of underneath corners is all.

Not easy, but no where near as difficult as I expected.

You made it look easy. As a side note, the dipperstick lifting capacity on this size of tractor is about half the breakout force of the bucket. Did a similiar move of a slab with a Massey 1710 backhoe.

 

[thankyouTBN]

I think I'd start by taking a hand shovel and easing the ground on the side where you want to pull towards so the slab isn't bound up by the dirt. You could probably get a long 4 or 5' metal pry bar under it to help get it freed up. Then set the 2x4s to skid on.

Then I'd try wrapping a chain around the edge to see if I could drag it with the drawbar. I don't know how strong a metal cable you have, but I wouldn't want it to snap on you.

The difficulty of getting the slab sliding depends on how relatively flat the bottom of the slab is and how much it has settled in the ground.

If you go at it with the FEL, you might snap a corner off the slab.

I did this, and I was very very proud of myself that I did it all by myself, and that it worked.
I have a terrible memory I thought I did this absolutely in the middle of winter when the ground was frozen. I thought I dragged the slabs a across completely frozen ground, apparently I’m wrong! I can’t even remember if I used the bucket to lift them! I thought The hydraulic squealed when I tried to pick One side of the slab up with the bucket, I thought that I used a bottle jack to lift it up to get the chain under it so I could drag it. I know for sure I used a bottle jack to lift them up high enough to get them over the edge of the asphalt because I remember one time it fell and it’s very surprisingly huge puff of air came out from under the slab when it went landed. I’m pretty sure I slid them along a pipe that I laid perpendicular to the slab so that it wouldn’t gouge the asphalt. I might’ve used pipes to roll them across the asphalt so I wouldn’t gouge the asphalt. I think I must’ve lifted one edge with the bucket with the chains that are in the photo and drag them about 250 feet to a new location where I thought I could use them instead of smashing them up and hauling them off and then I neatly arranged them as they were but I never got around to finishing that project. I know I can push them with the tractor and the bucket but I can’t remember if I can pick them up. I mean I know for sure I can’t pick them up outright, they are way too heavy for me to pick them up with the B 2150 that I have. I made a set of forklift forks for the three point hitch but I don’t think that’s strong enough I’m almost positive that is not strong enough to even start to budge these. I removed a sidewalk and I needed a diamond saw to saw the 34 wide side walk into about maximum 6 foot length and even then my three-point hitch was squealing when I picked them up.
I would say absolutely hundred percent move them and place them as you have planned even if it doesn’t work out perfectly.
My concept was to make a like a volcanic cone of gravel and then deposit the slab and wiggle the slab from side to side to make the cone flatten and accommodate the rough under surface of the slab and try as best I could to get it to sit nice and even and fully supported.
Good luck to you! It’s a blast when you could pull off a difficult project successfully that you’ve conceived from beginning to end.

 

[thankyouTBN]

I did this, and I was very very proud of myself that I did it all by myself, and that it worked.
I have a terrible memory I thought I did this absolutely in the middle of winter when the ground was frozen. I thought I dragged the slabs a across completely frozen ground, apparently I’m wrong! I can’t even remember if I used the bucket to lift them! I thought The hydraulic squealed when I tried to pick One side of the slab up with the bucket, I thought that I used a bottle jack to lift it up to get the chain under it so I could drag it. I know for sure I used a bottle jack to lift them up high enough to get them over the edge of the asphalt because I remember one time it fell and it’s very surprisingly huge puff of air came out from under the slab when it went landed. I’m pretty sure I slid them along a pipe that I laid perpendicular to the slab so that it wouldn’t gouge the asphalt. I might’ve used pipes to roll them across the asphalt so I wouldn’t gouge the asphalt. I think I must’ve lifted one edge with the bucket with the chains that are in the photo and drag them about 250 feet to a new location where I thought I could use them instead of smashing them up and hauling them off and then I neatly arranged them as they were but I never got around to finishing that project. I know I can push them with the tractor and the bucket but I can’t remember if I can pick them up. I mean I know for sure I can’t pick them up outright, they are way too heavy for me to pick them up with the B 2150 that I have. I made a set of forklift forks for the three point hitch but I don’t think that’s strong enough I’m almost positive that is not strong enough to even start to budge these. I removed a sidewalk and I needed a diamond saw to saw the 34 wide side walk into about maximum 6 foot length and even then my three-point hitch was squealing when I picked them up.
I would say absolutely hundred percent move them and place them as you have planned even if it doesn’t work out perfectly.
My concept was to make a like a volcanic cone of gravel and then deposit the slab and wiggle the slab from side to side to make the cone flatten and accommodate the rough under surface of the slab and try as best I could to get it to sit nice and even and fully supported.
Good luck to you! It’s a blast when you could pull off a difficult project successfully that you’ve conceived from beginning to end.

Sorry for such a long reply! I forgot to say I wanted to say my brother poured that skirt and it subsided about 6 inches (I had to make a tiny little ramps out of laminated treated wedges for my mother to get her car in and out of the garage) and I thought rather than mess around trying to pour a wedge of concrete on top of it, and rather than try to lift it with foam which I didn’t wanna pay some guy to do and I think you need a lot of finesse to do it right I thought it would be easiest to remove the slab and pour a new slab after filling and compacting gravel. I didn’t want to dispose of the slabs that I thought that I could use somewhere else on the property.