Need to move an 800+ pound concrete slab.
- Thread starter Diggin It
- Start date
DieselBound
Elite Member
My little B7800 has moved a LOT of weight by catching the corner of something and spinning it. Can be a slow process, but it can be done when lifting isn't possible. I do this very thing by hand: spin heavy objects across the floor.
I'd run straps or such off a corner and spin (pulling, yes, from the loader- that's not enough weight to bother the loader- it's only partial weight).
As Bruce noted, poles/logs. Pretty standard way of moving large objects. Requires firm ground or at least some "tracks" to lay down under the poles/logs. I used equipment rollers to move a large shed: ran on 2x10s; stressful as the shed would slip off rollers and or my "tracks".
The bigger issue is LANDING the pad, how to keep from messing up the landing spot. Tracks and rollers are the least disruptive. Trick is getting the rollers and tracks out from under the pad when situated. This requires a bit of thinking. If using only two jacks it'll require a couple of lifts, one for removing the rollers (remove all rollers first) then removing the tracks; not sure if one could rely on lifting the entire pad on four jacks. And, of course, you need clearance for operating the jacks, and since the pad is on-ground you're going to have to dig HOLES in the appropriate locations along where the pad's edges are going to end up (and extend those holes out such that you can pull the jacks out of each hole): hole depth required depends on hydraulic jack's dimensions- enough extension to hold slab edge UP and to allow for jack to be removed from under the pad (too shallow and you can't drop the jack down far enough to get it out- one could, I suppose, dig one out, but figure it correctly up-front and avoid the hassle).
I used this basic strategy (less the spinning part) on my shed move. Above ground and landing the shed on a prepared site: dropped on to a block foundation. Rollers. Tracks. Jacks. And "holes" (removed blocks) for jack points for lifting to remove rollers and tracks and to lower down on to foundation.
I'd run straps or such off a corner and spin (pulling, yes, from the loader- that's not enough weight to bother the loader- it's only partial weight).
As Bruce noted, poles/logs. Pretty standard way of moving large objects. Requires firm ground or at least some "tracks" to lay down under the poles/logs. I used equipment rollers to move a large shed: ran on 2x10s; stressful as the shed would slip off rollers and or my "tracks".
The bigger issue is LANDING the pad, how to keep from messing up the landing spot. Tracks and rollers are the least disruptive. Trick is getting the rollers and tracks out from under the pad when situated. This requires a bit of thinking. If using only two jacks it'll require a couple of lifts, one for removing the rollers (remove all rollers first) then removing the tracks; not sure if one could rely on lifting the entire pad on four jacks. And, of course, you need clearance for operating the jacks, and since the pad is on-ground you're going to have to dig HOLES in the appropriate locations along where the pad's edges are going to end up (and extend those holes out such that you can pull the jacks out of each hole): hole depth required depends on hydraulic jack's dimensions- enough extension to hold slab edge UP and to allow for jack to be removed from under the pad (too shallow and you can't drop the jack down far enough to get it out- one could, I suppose, dig one out, but figure it correctly up-front and avoid the hassle).
I used this basic strategy (less the spinning part) on my shed move. Above ground and landing the shed on a prepared site: dropped on to a block foundation. Rollers. Tracks. Jacks. And "holes" (removed blocks) for jack points for lifting to remove rollers and tracks and to lower down on to foundation.
Last edited:
Kschwennsen
Silver Member
I've had to do this with alot bigger and I just wrap a chain around the best I can, lift with the 3point and drag. then use a big bar to sin it as needed.
dh206
Member
A little BX 3pt could lift it as long as it was oriented vertical on a carry-all in the back or something (close to the tractor), but you'd need counterweight in the bucket and it would be a bit awkward (hills or angles would be terribly unstable, but 100% flat would be okay; 5' x3' wouldn't be bad though).
I'm with the chains and drag. That should work just fine hooked to the drawbar You could even put some nice stout rod between the 3 point nocks and hook chains to that. You'll have more power on the 3ph than the bucket, regardless.
I'm with the chains and drag. That should work just fine hooked to the drawbar You could even put some nice stout rod between the 3 point nocks and hook chains to that. You'll have more power on the 3ph than the bucket, regardless.
Old Grunt
New member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2022
- Messages
- 24
- Location
- New Hampshire
- Tractor
- 2016 eMAX 25, with the 25L loader, 25B backhoe, 25M belly mower and, a Bercomac front mount snowblower
I definitely go with the chains instead of cable or rope. I've had the sharp edges on the cement eventually rub and cut them. The other thing rather than use 2X4's, go out and get some schedule 40 pipe for rollers. It's how the Egyptians move blocks for the pyramids. I've done it before, get one edge up on the piping and then you can easily roll the thing wherever you want and even pivot it to some degree.
Tony H
Platinum Member
I would go with this. Chain on one end with a couple of pipes, fence rails, logs that you keep putting under the front as they roll out the back.
greenerdreams
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2009
- Messages
- 62
i have moved a few sheds that and multiple hot tubs that weighed way more than 800 lbs. everyone has given some pretty good ideas and it is feasible most of those ways. how i did, it. use a lever or a jack under the front edge(direction you are moving). a 5' breaker bar i have for digging post holes works perfect with a chunk of firewood or blocking near the edge. lift it and block it, may have to do both sides to get it high enough if you do the whole sandwich i discuss next. place some boards or beams on the ground in a path to new spot. use any type of round item that can hold the weight(even pvc works). if the bottom of the concrete is rough place a board on top of the roller but under the concrete(basically a sandwich of concrete/board/roller/board/ground. if you extend the boards past the end of the concrete and screw a cross board on at the back of the lip of the concrete you can pull from the front of the boards by drilling or screwing a point of connection for rope/chain/cable whatever, the pulling force is not that high. pull with tractor to new spot. now the tricky part is as others have said, bedding the new concrete. just use an inch of sand and it will set without cracking, sand will compact enough to account for variations but not so much to have the concrete settle uneven. or just smash it and pour a new one.
OP
Diggin It
Super Star Member
It's 15-20' so I don't see steel cables chafing and breaking, nor do I see an issue dragging without rollers since it's soft sandy/clay mix soil. The 2xs would only be to elevate to get the cables or chains under it and then to help position.
But I found out the cables I have are lighter than I remembered ... only 3MM and rated for 1,350 lbs, so I guess they're out. I have a chain that should work and some old clothes/rags to cushion the corners to help prevent cracking.
But as I stated above, I intend to try it with the backhoe as a crane as suggested. Since it's such a short distance and has to be rotated 90 degrees, I may try, lift, swing, set, reposition, repeat as necessary rather than trying to drive on soft soil with a slight slope. That way I can leave the outriggers set for each move.
If it cracks/breaks, so be it. I'll just be delayed a few days for the new pad to cure.
I thought I might have a two day window to work this weekend, but the area is still too wet, so I'm not sure now. Guess I'll take a look in the morning.
But I found out the cables I have are lighter than I remembered ... only 3MM and rated for 1,350 lbs, so I guess they're out. I have a chain that should work and some old clothes/rags to cushion the corners to help prevent cracking.
But as I stated above, I intend to try it with the backhoe as a crane as suggested. Since it's such a short distance and has to be rotated 90 degrees, I may try, lift, swing, set, reposition, repeat as necessary rather than trying to drive on soft soil with a slight slope. That way I can leave the outriggers set for each move.
If it cracks/breaks, so be it. I'll just be delayed a few days for the new pad to cure.
I thought I might have a two day window to work this weekend, but the area is still too wet, so I'm not sure now. Guess I'll take a look in the morning.
OP
Diggin It
Super Star Member
Moved. BH lifted it, but didn't really want to. Had to coax it a bit. Combination of FEL and BH, couple of chains, a few 2x4s and 4x4s, lifting, dragging, pushing got it done.
Had fresh (at the time) loose crushed rock under it when I poured it, so it came out quite easy.
Slid fairly well across the open soil.
As it sits, it's within a half a bubble down hill. I'll probably try to tweak that a bit, but it may work better this way for drainage. Dead on side to side. It should settle down into the new crushed rock a little bit with rains, but I don't expect it to go off level.
No cracking. Chipped a couple of underneath corners is all.
Not easy, but no where near as difficult as I expected.
Had fresh (at the time) loose crushed rock under it when I poured it, so it came out quite easy.
Slid fairly well across the open soil.
As it sits, it's within a half a bubble down hill. I'll probably try to tweak that a bit, but it may work better this way for drainage. Dead on side to side. It should settle down into the new crushed rock a little bit with rains, but I don't expect it to go off level.
No cracking. Chipped a couple of underneath corners is all.
Not easy, but no where near as difficult as I expected.
MAX-24-Dean
Veteran Member
You made it look easy. As a side note, the dipperstick lifting capacity on this size of tractor is about half the breakout force of the bucket. Did a similiar move of a slab with a Massey 1710 backhoe.