need to rewire the KAMA TS254C

[greg_g]

When I depress the brake pedal the gauges go nuts.

If it happens when you push the brake pedals down hard, you may be pinching something - but I doubt it. The underfloor wiring is somewhat protected inside plastic looms. You'd likely find a whole loom crushed, then have to open it to find exposed copper. But if it happens as soon as you press on the pedals lightly, it's probably a damaged brake switch. One of these (Switch JK514 - JK514) will work.

Get under the floorboard and inspect the switch for signs of damage. Then disconnect it at the connector. See what happens to the instrument clusterl with the switch disconnected. Another thing you can try - with the switch still disconnected - is jumper the connector where the switch plugs into the wiring harness. Turning on the key with the jumper in place should illuminate the brake lights. If that doesn't interfere with the instruments, you've proved the problem is the brake switch. If the problem persists, you've got a short somewhere else.

//greg//

 

[Turbo]

Grag is right .... ( again)....
just when out and checked my brake switch, what I found is the rod going back to the brake is rubbing on the switch and had pulled the protected wiring boot off exposing the two spades although mine were on a horizontal plain i could see if they were vertical the rod could hit a spade..
here a link for a wiring diagram

JinmaWire

 

[Diamondpilot]

Grag is right .... ( again)....
just when out and checked my brake switch, what I found is the rod going back to the brake is rubbing on the switch and had pulled the protected wiring boot off exposing the two spades although mine were on a horizontal plain i could see if they were vertical the rod could hit a spade..
here a link for a wiring diagram

JinmaWire

Hey now!!! Greg is a good guy but I believe I should get the pat on the back for that one. I told you to look at that very problem in post #50.


Score Greg: 24753720
Chris: 1


Chris

 

[lakespirit]

Chris,
You have 3 more posts than Greg in addition to the "pat on the behind" for the switch thing, so quit feeling sorry for yourself

 

[lakespirit]

I'm getting pretty worn out from all this electrical stuff, but am willing to do the work if you guys keep sending me into the battle with good strategies (which you all have).

This morning I heard a ticking before I even touched the old KAMA. Why would the hour meter be running if the key switch is off?

I installed this meter about 6 months ago with a wire to the alternator and one to ground, like the instructions said, and until now it worked when the key and/or the engine was on.

My tach and hour meter haven't worked in over a year...not that I really care if they do. BUT, it's probably just one more symptom of my electrical woes.

I'm off to see if any wires are grounded that shouldn't be.

I may not have been crystal clear in my early description of some of this, so here is some additional information:

1. I did remove all the wiring early on.
2. Replaced wires with worn insulation.
3. Cleaned or replaced all connectors, and put either shrink tape or that liquid tape on all connectors.
4. Removed the OEM wires to the OEM headlights.
5. I rerouted some of the wiring. I cannot see where I have a common ground for all the circuits, but I did hook up all the black grounds together (best I can tell).

Have I created a monster that cannot be slain???

 

[greg_g]

This morning I heard a ticking before I even touched the old KAMA. Why would the hour meter be running if the key switch is off?

Well, I'd say it's the monster you created - grinding its teeth. If the meter is clocking, that means it's getting voltage from somewhere other than through the key switch. You've got your wires crossed somewhere. And from anywhere other than physically looking over your shoulder, I don't thing any of us want to venture a guess.

//greg//

 

[Diamondpilot]

If you ran the hour meter from the alternator and then did the bypass wiring that Greg suggested from the battery to the alternator you now have 12 volts going to the hour meter all the time.

You need to move the hour meter to another switched location that is only hot when the key is on.

Chris

 

[lakespirit]

If you ran the hour meter from the alternator and then did the bypass wiring that Greg suggested from the battery to the alternator you now have 12 volts going to the hour meter all the time.

You need to move the hour meter to another switched location that is only hot when the key is on.

Chris

Sounds pretty simple. I think I'll do that and maybe just leave well enough alone.

 

[greg_g]

Chris is right, I completely missed the part where stuck in an aftermarket hour meter. Do you realize that the OE hour meter is triggered by the tach? Cuz if the tach don't work, the hour meter don't count. And one of the most common reasons the tach quits is the sending unit. Have you removed your tach sending unit to see if it's damaged? If not, it may simply have needed repositioning to fix both problems.

//greg//

 

[lakespirit]

If it happens when you push the brake pedals down hard, you may be pinching something - but I doubt it. The underfloor wiring is somewhat protected inside plastic looms. You'd likely find a whole loom crushed, then have to open it to find exposed copper. But if it happens as soon as you press on the pedals lightly, it's probably a damaged brake switch. One of these (Switch JK514 - JK514) will work.

Get under the floorboard and inspect the switch for signs of damage. Then disconnect it at the connector. See what happens to the instrument clusterl with the switch disconnected. Another thing you can try - with the switch still disconnected - is jumper the connector where the switch plugs into the wiring harness. Turning on the key with the jumper in place should illuminate the brake lights. If that doesn't interfere with the instruments, you've proved the problem is the brake switch. If the problem persists, you've got a short somewhere else.

//greg//

How do I do the jumper? Thanks.