Needing some advice building a lean-to.

[Chuck K.]

I will soon be building a 12x'x24'x9' high (at lowest eve) lean-to for storing tractor implements, riding mower, lawn tools etc.. Using treated 4x6s (~1.5 bags of sackcrete per beam) on 6 foot centers with 3 equally spaced horizontal 2x6's to attach the metal sheeting to. A 10'x12' section of the south end of the lean-to will have a 5-1/2" cement slab and will be enclosed for the air compressor and water well holding tank..

Just ordered my Leinbach PHD with a 12" auger last night after doing my home work on the forum, I am too old and out of shape to hand dig that many holes that big

I am close to the gulf coast so wind is a factor in the layout, due to my lack of building knowledge I tend to overbuild like 200' rebar in 8'x8'x3.5" slab for the wind mill) The lean-to would be sheltered for the most part from the strong south winds by the 40x60 shop.

I chose this dimension because of all the salvaged lumber I have from demo'ing a 12'x24" covered porch.

Is 4x6's on 6 centers adequate? I hope to get them ~3 in the ground. Attached is some simple drawings I did while bored at work..

Thanks for any input.. Chuck


View attachment 100809

 

[Gittyup]

I just built a leanto that is 16 x 35 x 9. I used 6 x 6 posts set onto poured concrete piers, set 6' apart. I used 2 x 10's on 16" centers for the rafters and 2 x 8's for purlins spaced at 2' apart. I used double 2 x 12's to support the rafters on the posts. I double strapped the rafters to the header.

Depending on the slope and size of your headers, you can space your posts further apart, say 8' or so. You might want to add diagonal supports from each post to the header/roof line, especially if space 8' apart. Also, closing the cable ends into triangles will greatly reduce the wind load and will give it a more finished look.


There are span tables for rafters, and wind loading data available on the web. Just do a search for them.

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

10 years back I built a 24X48 pole barn.
10' sidewalls, stuck the poles into 4' deep holes.
6x6 posts were all on 8' centers, as were the trusses, also tied the bottoms of the trusses together with a couple of 2x4s to limit flex.
2x4 girts on 2' centers dropped between the rafters using joist hangers
2x4 purlins in 2 foot centers going up the wall.
tied the trusses directly to the posts, but still did a doubled 2x6 header.

it's handled several storms with winds in the 65-75 mph range with nothing but a hum.

since you're not going to have much snow load, you could probably get away with a 1 or 2 pitch roof, where the high side is 1 or 2 feet higher than the back wall. 4x6 should also be plenty for the posts - just make sure you have good cross bracingat the top outside cerners. (closing in one end will help a LOT with this)

good luck!

 

[Chuck K.]

Thanks guys.. Just to clarify things purlins are the horizontal boards that the siding is attached to? Girts are the vertical boards in between the 4x6s??

Really dumb questions but the largest thing I have built in the past is a deer stand or 2..

Chuck

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

Thanks guys.. Just to clarify things purlins are the horizontal boards that the siding is attached to? Girts are the vertical boards in between the 4x6s??

Really dumb questions but the largest thing I have built in the past is a deer stand or 2..

Chuck

you got it - and don't feel dumb it took me a while to keep em straight, too!

 

[bjcsc]

That's a lot of work to keep 3 implements out of the weather. If you leave the back wall out you can get at it from both sides and get up to 7. Why does it need to be 12' deep?

 

[Chuck K.]

That's a lot of work to keep 3 implements out of the weather. If you leave the back wall out you can get at it from both sides and get up to 7. Why does it need to be 12' deep?

More than 3 implements, a 6' cutter, 6' box blade, 9' backhoe, pallet forks, and post hole digger, Snapper 48" cut ZTR, push mower, weed eater, shovels, etc, etc. all the stuff that clutters a shop. The south end will be enclosed for a large air compressor and 220 gallon water well holding tank.

I salvaged a lot of treated 12' long 2'x6's and 12' long metal siding used for roofing from a big porch that was attached to my folks mobile home. My thought was if i used the same dimensions it would be less labor.

 

[bjcsc]

More than 3 implements, a 6' cutter, 6' box blade, 9' backhoe, pallet forks, and post hole digger, Snapper 48" cut ZTR, push mower, weed eater, shovels, etc, etc.

I figured... My point wasn't that you only had three implements but that you will only be able to store three implements. You'll have three 6' bays. Unless you plan on moving whatever is in the front every time, only 3 will fit, right? How will a 6' BB and 6' cutter fit in between 4x6s on 6' centers?

 

[Chuck K.]

I figured... My point wasn't that you only had three implements but that you will only be able to store three implements. You'll have three 6' bays. Unless you plan on moving whatever is in the front every time, only 3 will fit, right? How will a 6' BB and 6' cutter fit in between 4x6s on 6' centers?

I see.... I can not draw in 3-D so its hard for me to properly illustrate which side of the shed is which

I will have a 14' wide opening that is 12' deep where the larger implements will be stored and to the right of that opening will be a 10'wide by 12 deep enclosed area.. The 4x6's on 6' centers would be on the back wall..

The drawing below is the entrance to the 14' opening... Sorry I cannot draw any better with my limited computing skills And yes I will probably have to set some implements in front of others to fit it all in such a small area

 

[bjcsc]

OK. Now I see. That'll be a nice building. I wonder if anyone has ever stacked implements. I have often thought of building a shed of similar design with a heavy duty shelf at half height to store implements on. They would be on pallets, and I would use my forks (I see you have some also) to pull down things I use less often while heavy use items are stored at ground level. Anyway, looks good and you certainly can't beat the material costs...sorry for the confusion...