NEW 1700 Ford Tractor owner...

[Red State]

Well, my breather filter didn't look all that dirty but I'm still getting that "burping" as some of the other threads said about 1700's. I seems to only do it as I'm cutting UP HILL. I tried to cut in 2nd speed/second gear and in 3rd speed/second gear but after about 20 to 30 min. of mowing, it starts to belch a bit of coolant. I can let it idle for a while and it'll cool right back down but will start to do it again after about 20 min or so (more so or solely when working it up hill).

I did NOT have this problem last week *(not until I bushogged with it over on the hunting place). All fluids check out fine and one guy even told me to make sure the hoses aren't getting sucked shut (especially when the tractor is working harder, as in uphill). I've not seen it do this at all but I'm almost certain that it is not a cracked head or gasket. I continually check the coolant and the oil and have repeatedly and carefully opened the radiator cap to see if there are any bubbles. There does NOT seem to be any and the flow seems good enough but something is definitely happening. So..the list below is on my list and I wanted to know what any of you guys think:

1. Old radiator: It is old but the coolants seem clean and free of debris....perhaps the cells are damaged or in some way blocked. It is as if I'm making coffee or pressure steaming vegatables.

2. Radiator Cap...could it be that simple? I've read in other blogs about two different sizes that meet the 1700 standard so which is actually better?

3. Water Pump: As much as I hate saying it (cuz I've read where one ole boy replaced his pump and got his timing off somehow and wasn't able to start the tractor). I LOVE the speed in which it starts...even cold, and I'd hate to mess with perfection if it is something as simple as a radiator cap.

4. Thermostat: I believe this is working OK but I suppose I could put a larger one on. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes to get warm enough to start the water pump. I was advised to simple bypass a thermostat altogether but someone else was against that idea because of the cold starting nature of diesels.

5. OTHER or combo....I've read here or elsewhere that something as simple as the tightness of the belt could make a tractor overheat but I doubt that this is the case with my tractor. The belt seems perfectly firm and I doubt it needs to be any tighter (or else it could damage the alternator).

Thanks, in advance, for the replies and thanks to JC for suggesting that I re-read the 1700 posts/threads from the past but I'm still at a stand still here and I'm not as mechanically inclined as JC so it is better for me to single out the most likely before checking into other stuff. VERY interesting thread on JC breaking down his hydraulics (just to see how they looked and worked). I believe that was JC anyway...the reply form another poster was very funny and I agree: We hardly have time to actually "FIX" something...much less look into other stuff just out of interest.

 

[rayikeo2]

3. Water Pump: As much as I hate saying it (cuz I've read where one ole boy replaced his pump and got his timing off somehow and wasn't able to start the tractor). I LOVE the speed in which it starts...even cold, and I'd hate to mess with perfection if it is something as simple as a radiator cap.

The old boy that got his timing off by replacing the pump, replaced either the hydraulic pump, or the fuel pump, not the water pump. Water pump has nothing to do with timing. You can do all the changing you want ant the timing will stay the same.
You might need to mow a little slower. Maybe 2-3 or 3-1 to keep the temp down.
Keep an eye on the wobble in the water pump pulley. If you hear the fan blade hitting the shield or the radiator, shut it down fast before the shaft seperates completely from the pump. A bad pump ends up in 2 pieces.

 

[JC-jetro]

Red,

1. Old radiator: It is old but the coolants seem clean and free of debris....perhaps the cells are damaged or in some way blocked. It is as if I'm making coffee or pressure steaming vegatables.
You can easily take the radiator off, or dump the antifreeze and save in a bucket, take the hoses off and flush the radiator with clear water. that will expel junks if any and give you visual clues if it is indeed plugged.

2. Radiator Cap...could it be that simple? I've read in other blogs about two different sizes that meet the 1700 standard so which is actually better?

Yes, at 7psi boiling water is not as hot as 14 psi. as you increase the pressure there goes higher the boiling temp. As that water gets exposed to lesser like atmospheric pressure then it violently flashes to steam. that's why you do not want to remove radiator cap while engine is hot.

3. Water Pump: As much as I hate saying it (cuz I've read where one ole boy replaced his pump and got his timing off somehow and wasn't able to start the tractor). I LOVE the speed in which it starts...even cold, and I'd hate to mess with perfection if it is something as simple as a radiator cap.

totally bogus statement by whoever said it. There is no connection with water pump and timing. What you have mixed it up might have been statement that some one changes a timing belt on car that the water pump was driven off of timing belt and they screwd up the valve timing putting the belt/water pump in. In your tractor cam ear and crankshaft gears are permanently meshed.Rray is right.

4. Thermostat: I believe this is working OK but I suppose I could put a larger one on. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes to get warm enough to start the water pump. I was advised to simple bypass a thermostat altogether but someone else was against that idea because of the cold starting nature of diesels.

What do you mean with larger t-stat? they are all the same size for a given rig, they might have higher or lowers temp setting

5. OTHER or combo....I've read here or elsewhere that something as simple as the tightness of the belt could make a tractor overheat but I doubt that this is the case with my tractor. The belt seems perfectly firm and I doubt it needs to be any tighter (or else it could damage the alternator).

too lose belt and it might slip radiator pulley , hence not cooling adequately.

Thanks, in advance, for the replies and thanks to JC for suggesting that I re-read the 1700 posts/threads from the past but I'm still at a stand still here and I'm not as mechanically inclined as JC so it is better for me to single out the most likely before checking into other stuff. VERY interesting thread on JC breaking down his hydraulics (just to see how they looked and worked). I believe that was JC anyway...the reply form another poster was very funny and I agree: We hardly have time to actually "FIX" something...much less look into other stuff just out of interest.

Caint help it, I reckon

JC,

 

[Red State]

3. Water Pump: As much as I hate saying it (cuz I've read where one ole boy replaced his pump and got his timing off somehow and wasn't able to start the tractor). I LOVE the speed in which it starts...even cold, and I'd hate to mess with perfection if it is something as simple as a radiator cap.

The old boy that got his timing off by replacing the pump, replaced either the hydraulic pump, or the fuel pump, not the water pump. Water pump has nothing to do with timing. You can do all the changing you want ant the timing will stay the same.
You might need to mow a little slower. Maybe 2-3 or 3-1 to keep the temp down.
Keep an eye on the wobble in the water pump pulley. If you hear the fan blade hitting the shield or the radiator, shut it down fast before the shaft seperates completely from the pump. A bad pump ends up in 2 pieces.

Thanks Rayikeo....I told all you guys that I was not mechanically inclined but I wondered how in the heck a simple water pump could get the timing off but I suppose I didn't want to pipe up and sound stupid. HA! Just goes to show you that the only dumb question is the question never asked...which is why I'm here. HA!!!! Seriously though, I suppose I confused two different threads....there's been so many interesting ones on here and I'm not usually that interested in such. I even like the threads about building bridges and stuff. Would love to see someone do one where they're using their 1700 to build a log house. That'd be a killer cuz I plan to do that. I have plenty of trees and a beautiful place full of Florida Bass, Eastern Wild Turkey and gorgeous Whitetail deer to see....when you can get them out of the the thick Mississippi weeds. HA!!!

I probably was too picky about the water pump vibration....it is really just a slight imperfection in the rotation rather than a vibration. No more so than say a ceilling fan that isn't 110% perfect. Still, I'll heed your warnings and keep a close eye out on it. May even go ahead and replace it (although I believe it is the alternator and not the water pump that is doing most of the imperfect rotation.

 

[Red State]

Thanks JC...I've responded below in all caps.....

Red,

1. Old radiator: It is old but the coolants seem clean and free of debris....perhaps the cells are damaged or in some way blocked. It is as if I'm making coffee or pressure steaming vegatables.
You can easily take the radiator off, or dump the antifreeze and save in a bucket, take the hoses off and flush the radiator with clear water. that will expel junks if any and give you visual clues if it is indeed plugged.

WILL DO THAT FIRST (IF) OR (UNLESS) YOU CARE TO PLACE WHAT YOU WOULD DO IN THE ORDER THAT YOU WOULD DO IT. I BELIEVE YOU CAN VISUALIZE WHAT IS GOING ON AND AS GOOD AS YOU ARE WITH MECHANICAL INGENUITY COULD PROBABLY PIN POINT THE CAUSE AND THE SOLUTION TO THE PROBLEM THAT IS PROBABLY VERY SIMPLE TO CORRECT.

2. Radiator Cap...could it be that simple? I've read in other blogs about two different sizes that meet the 1700 standard so which is actually better?

Yes, at 7psi boiling water is not as hot as 14 psi. as you increase the pressure there goes higher the boiling temp. As that water gets exposed to lesser like atmospheric pressure then it violently flashes to steam. that's why you do not want to remove radiator cap while engine is hot.

I'LL TRY AND GET A NEW ONE TOMORROW AND ALTHOUGH I PUT THIS POSSIBLE PROBLEM AT #2, YOU'D PROBABLY AGREE THAT IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN AT #1....ESPECIALLY SINCE IT DOES IT AT HIGHER TORQUE OR WHEN THE TRACTOR IS DOING MORE WITH MORE EQUIPMENT.

3. Water Pump: As much as I hate saying it (cuz I've read where one ole boy replaced his pump and got his timing off somehow and wasn't able to start the tractor). I LOVE the speed in which it starts...even cold, and I'd hate to mess with perfection if it is something as simple as a radiator cap.

totally bogus statement by whoever said it. There is no connection with water pump and timing. What you have mixed it up might have been statement that some one changes a timing belt on car that the water pump was driven off of timing belt and they screwd up the valve timing putting the belt/water pump in. In your tractor cam ear and crankshaft gears are permanently meshed.Rray is right.
I AGREE AND I WILL STILL LOOK AT THIS AS BEING A POSSIBILITY IN MAKING THE ENGINE OVER HEAT (IF) IT IS NOT PUMPING FAST ENOUGH OR THE AMOUNT OF WATER NEEDED TO PULL THROUGH THE COOLING PROCESS. I TRULY DON'T THINK THIS IS THE PROBLEM BUT IT WOULD PROBABLY NOT BE A BAD IDEA TO REPLACE OR TEND TO ALL OF THE POSSIBILITIES. I DEFINITELY BELIEVE THIS TRACTOR IS WORTH IT (ESPECIALLY AFTER READING HOW MUCH YOU GUYS LOVE YOURS).

4. Thermostat: I believe this is working OK but I suppose I could put a larger one on. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes to get warm enough to start the water pump. I was advised to simple bypass a thermostat altogether but someone else was against that idea because of the cold starting nature of diesels.

What do you mean with larger t-stat? they are all the same size for a given rig, they might have higher or lowers temp setting

I THOUGHT THEY MAY HAVE MADE A HIGHER CAPACITY TSTAT THAT ALLOWED MORE FLOW. I HAVE READ UP ON ENLARGING THE AREA OF FLOW BUT THOUGHT IT'D BE BETTER TO SIMPLY PUT A BIGGER ONE IN. STRIKE ALL OF THIS IF IT IS KrAZy TALK. HA!!! SO, WHAT DID YOU THINK OF THE IDEA OF NOT HAVING A T-STAT? THE TRACTOR STARTS UP AWFULLY GOOD....JUST NOT SURE HOW THAT'D WORK OUT IN WINTER (NOT THAT WE GET TOO COLD A WINTER HERE IN THE MIDSOUTH.

5. OTHER or combo....I've read here or elsewhere that something as simple as the tightness of the belt could make a tractor overheat but I doubt that this is the case with my tractor. The belt seems perfectly firm and I doubt it needs to be any tighter (or else it could damage the alternator).

too lose belt and it might slip radiator pulley , hence not cooling adequately.

DOUBT THAT IS IT CUZ IT IS SUPER TIGHT TO THE TOUCH AND I'VE YET TO SEE THE HOSES BUCKLE OR DRAW CLOSED UNDER SUCKING PRESSURE. I REALLY DON'T KNOW WHY I MENTIONED THAT (UNLESS IT COULD BE LOOSE AND I DON'T KNOW IT OR CAN'T DETECT IT BY HAND. I SUPPOSE THE SLIGHT WOBBLE I SEE COULD COME INTO PLAY SOMEHOW.

Thanks, in advance, for the replies and thanks to JC for suggesting that I re-read the 1700 posts/threads from the past but I'm still at a stand still here and I'm not as mechanically inclined as JC so it is better for me to single out the most likely before checking into other stuff. VERY interesting thread on JC breaking down his hydraulics (just to see how they looked and worked). I believe that was JC anyway...the reply form another poster was very funny and I agree: We hardly have time to actually "FIX" something...much less look into other stuff just out of interest.

Caint help it, I reckon

JC,

HA!!!! THAT'S OK, AS LITTLE I KNOW YOU, I WOULDN'T CHANGE A THING....KEEP ON BEING GOOD OLE INTERESTING JC!!! BY THE WAY, I BELIEVE YOU HUNT BUT ARE YOU A BOW HUNTER? ARCHERY SEASON IS FAST APPROACHING.....HOPEFULLY I CAN GET MY PLACE READY IN TIME. I HAVE BUSHOGGED HALF OF IT AND I NEED TO GET THE CLOVER AND/OR WHEAT PLANTED DURING THE FIRST, EARLY SEPT. RAINS. I HAVE A GREAT DEAL OF WHITE OAKS AND SAWTOOTHED ACORNS SO I DON'T DO TOO MUCH IN OTHER AREAS.....CLOVER, WHEAT AND FESCUE HAVE ALWAYS WORKED WELL FOR MY (THAT AND FERTILIZED & LIMED HONEYSUCKLE).

THANKS FOR YOU AND RAY'S HELP.....MUCH OBLIGED!!!

SO, FROM WHAT I'VE POSTED, I BELIEVE ANY TWO OR THREE OF US WOULD RULE OUT A CRACKED HEAD OR BAD GASKET...RIGHT? NO WATER IN OIL....NO OIL IN WATER, GOOD/SHINY BLK OIL AND GOOD CLEAN GREEN COOLANT (WITH NO BUBBLES). WHAT SAY YOU GUYS?

 

[JC-jetro]

Red,

I do hunt. at least 75% of the red meat we consume is deer meat that I hunt and process entirely myself. In the unit my land is I can get up to 5 does and one any deer ( buck or doe) a season. I normally fill all my bag limit. It might be a bit more difficult this winter as they found many deer perish due to high heat, lack of water and blue tong disease. No, I don't Bow hunt.. I like to reach out and touch a deer, my preferred medicine is 0.270 caliber and my shots pretty much are from 175 to 225 yards out. Hardly have any chance with a bow.

with cracked head you'd have symptoms like you explained so I don't think you do as of now. Make sure not to go there by being watchful for now. At the end you'd still need to know the temp rather than watching needle , or digital or analog read out. You can test out your thermostat body very easily by dunking it in ice water and observing it closed and do the opposite by dunking in boiling water and see if it fully opens.

JC,

 

[Red State]

Thanks JC, I read your post over and over and tried to read that you believe the symptoms would be a bit different *(IF) I has a cracked head but after reading it a few more times, concluded that my symptoms are as if I had a cracked head... What puzzles me, however, and has kept me hopeful is that I have no contaminated water or oil, no moisture in the exhaust and no staggered idle. I've had a cracked head before and know these to be the proof in the pudding. Hopefully, it is simply the other minor problems and I will surely be on the look out (may not even use it for a while till I can get everything looked at or replaced). You have given me a bit of hope by telling me that you don't think I have a cracked head (YET) so I take it that you feel that my tractor is good to go BUT if I push it without fixing the radiator, t-stat or water pump, I could end up with a cracked head. It that a pretty good assumption of how I interpreted what you've said?

As for deer hunting, my profile photo is of the last deer I killed with a led propelled weapon was in 2006 with my favored and trusty 30.06 Stainless Stalker with a Leupold scope *(156 gr). This deer was taken at 300 yards. Most of my deer (rifle or bow are taken at 25 - 40 yards). My longest shot EVER was 420+ yards while he and another buck fought over a single doe in a pasture. My largest buck was a 165 class and was taken at 275 yds while rubbing a leg-sized 20 foot tree. It was he and a single doe that evening and he dropped like a ton of bricks....drove right to him. It is so thick in my area and we've given up leases where long shots could be made and settled for the 120 acres I've owned for over 20 years now. got it and my house paid for early in life (about 5 years ago when I was a young and scrapping 39 or 40. God is good my friend...He has blessed me with so much (including a best friend that I've had by my side for 27 years now....25 of those years in marriage AS OF TODAY). In fact, we're headed to the mountains right now....just wanted to send you a courtesy response before I forget.

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks JC, I read your post over and over and tried to read that you believe the symptoms would be a bit different *(IF) I has a cracked head but after reading it a few more times, concluded that my symptoms are as if I had a cracked head... What puzzles me, however, and has kept me hopeful is that I have no contaminated water or oil, no moisture in the exhaust and no staggered idle. I've had a cracked head before and know these to be the proof in the pudding. Hopefully, it is simply the other minor problems and I will surely be on the look out (may not even use it for a while till I can get everything looked at or replaced). You have given me a bit of hope by telling me that you don't think I have a cracked head (YET) so I take it that you feel that my tractor is good to go BUT if I push it without fixing the radiator, t-stat or water pump, I could end up with a cracked head. It that a pretty good assumption of how I interpreted what you've said?

As for deer hunting, my profile photo is of the last deer I killed with a led propelled weapon was in 2006 with my favored and trusty 30.06 Stainless Stalker with a Leupold scope *(156 gr). This deer was taken at 300 yards. Most of my deer (rifle or bow are taken at 25 - 40 yards). My longest shot EVER was 420+ yards while he and another buck fought over a single doe in a pasture. My largest buck was a 165 class and was taken at 275 yds while rubbing a leg-sized 20 foot tree. It was he and a single doe that evening and he dropped like a ton of bricks....drove right to him. It is so thick in my area and we've given up leases where long shots could be made and settled for the 120 acres I've owned for over 20 years now. got it and my house paid for early in life (about 5 years ago when I was a young and scrapping 39 or 40. God is good my friend...He has blessed me with so much (including a best friend that I've had by my side for 27 years now....25 of those years in marriage AS OF TODAY). In fact, we're headed to the mountains right now....just wanted to send you a courtesy response before I forget.

Good for you Red, Having a good woman on your side for life is unbeatable plus good children. My wife and I are happily married for 30 yrs, that does not mean no ups or downs. Evey one has issues and problems in life but god has blessed me plenty as my cup is more than 3/4 full. Wish you even better life if future.

My littl2 20 acres only allows me absolute max 250 yards shot and even that in a very limited angel from my hunting shack to opposite side of the creek in the bottoms.

I think you read me correctly, tractor is inanimate object ,even a a cracked head at the end is a minor set back when you are blessed so much.

JC,

 

[Red State]

Good for you Red, Having a good woman on your side for life is unbeatable plus good children. My wife and I are happily married for 30 yrs, that does not mean no ups or downs. Evey one has issues and problems in life but god has blessed me plenty as my cup is more than 3/4 full. Wish you even better life if future.

My littl2 20 acres only allows me absolute max 250 yards shot and even that in a very limited angel from my hunting shack to opposite side of the creek in the bottoms.

I think you read me correctly, tractor is inanimate object ,even a a cracked head at the end is a minor set back when you are blessed so much.

JC,

We're back and we had a wonderful time.....good thing too cuz I had some bad news about my son's Sprint Bass Boat and my old 600 is still in the shop. My 1700 is doing fine BUT it will still steam up when it is really worked. It doesn't do it with a plow or box blade but a 5' bushog will really put the hurt on it. What's odd is that now it seems to get steamy when making it work hard with the finishing mower and it wasn't doing that when I first got it.

At any rate, we've had rain but not enough to get the food plots to come up.....maybe Sat. I'm expecting a good bow season this year and am sure that my food plots will be empty for quite a while given the abundance of acorn this year. It seems the rain and cooler weather has given us a bumper crop. I just hope we aren't in for a hefty amount of BUGS!!!

Well, just wanted you guys to know that I hadn't forgotten about you.

 

[JC-jetro]

Red,


read temp when your 1700 steaming , that's the number yo need to know. get and IR thermometer, HF got them cheap and they work well. Check your radiator cap, that might be leaking. If the cap can't keep the 7 psi pressure then water will boil earlier and steam off without being as hot.

JC,