surfacewave
Member
I have not found a reason to remove the frame for the MMM although it is very easy to do. Just unlatch and remove the clips. I store the MMM on its side up against the garage wall with some bungee cords to save space and keep it from being accidently knocked over. The reason I went with R4's was partly due to TBN advice and my requirements. I wanted to mow my 3+ acres of yard ( expanding) and not to give up traction in my 15 acres in the woods (some hilly). When I mow the yard I use 2 wheel drive not 4 wheel drive and have not had any problems tearing up the grass as long as your turns are not sharp (This will happen in 4wd or 2wd if your turns are sharp). Your best bet is to contour your yard based upon what the tractor can do and you will be very pleased because the 60 MMM gives a great cut. If the ground is soft (early spring or has wet areas it doesn't matter you will always leave indentations or marks even if you walk across the lawn).
I would fill your tires especially if you are going to use the FEL because it will provide more balance when the loader is being used. Keep the ballast box on and add some weight. It only helps when plowing snow (the tractor can only push up to its own weight once momentum is lost).
I did not consider the FEL mounted blade when I bought the front blade but I don't feel I lost out on anything once I reviewed the option. It might make it a bit easier to plow show by raising the blade and extra length the FEL frame provides but you still gotta change something! I paid 850 for the hydraulic blade and the only thing I would change is to get a larger width blade. For the right price which you must judge I might have gone that way.
One thing I would highly reccomend if you dont have it already is the MMM latch kit(pretty cheap at about 75 to 90 bucks). I have found it allows me to set a minimal height fot the MMM (helps prevents scalping in uneven lawn areas) and I can leave the MMM on while using my rototiller.
I failed to mention as discussed in previous threads of adding a rubber cutting edge (squeege) for the blade is an option from your dealer ( to give you an idea of what has been discussed see the link http://www.j-thomas.com/Catalog2003/page272.html). This is something I am going to add to my blade to eliminate marking and gouging on the asphalt.
I would fill your tires especially if you are going to use the FEL because it will provide more balance when the loader is being used. Keep the ballast box on and add some weight. It only helps when plowing snow (the tractor can only push up to its own weight once momentum is lost).
I did not consider the FEL mounted blade when I bought the front blade but I don't feel I lost out on anything once I reviewed the option. It might make it a bit easier to plow show by raising the blade and extra length the FEL frame provides but you still gotta change something! I paid 850 for the hydraulic blade and the only thing I would change is to get a larger width blade. For the right price which you must judge I might have gone that way.
One thing I would highly reccomend if you dont have it already is the MMM latch kit(pretty cheap at about 75 to 90 bucks). I have found it allows me to set a minimal height fot the MMM (helps prevents scalping in uneven lawn areas) and I can leave the MMM on while using my rototiller.
I failed to mention as discussed in previous threads of adding a rubber cutting edge (squeege) for the blade is an option from your dealer ( to give you an idea of what has been discussed see the link http://www.j-thomas.com/Catalog2003/page272.html). This is something I am going to add to my blade to eliminate marking and gouging on the asphalt.
