I got some good advice on here a few weeks ago. Finally received my new 4110 2 weeks ago. I've put 30 hours on it between all the rains we have had doing landscaping of my yard. I have to say that I have been very pleased with it and am glad I chose John Deere. I can't imagine being anymore satisfied with something else. I picked up a 4' box and 5' tiller, both king kutter brand. I think they will both be sufficient for all I will use them for. I am now thinking about a middle buster and seeing if it will dig trenches deep enough to to install flex pipe to run my gutter water out of the yard.
New 4110
- Thread starter danboy
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bigpete
Veteran Member
Congrats! Welcome to the 4110 club /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
You seem pretty well set up. Your box blade might not quite cover your tracks, but that shouldn't cause you too much grief for most work. I trust you did get the 410 loader, too?
As far as the middle-buster, yes it will create broad trenches for you, but probably not as deep as you may want to run your drainage pipe. I just finished up the exact same project for five downspouts running the pipe out 20-feet from the foundation (I have a wet, but fairly well-drained homesite). Three more downspouts drain to the driveway, which is another project.
I ended up digging the majority of the work by hand with a lanscaper tree/tile spade (short handle, 16" long x 6"-8" wide blade) even though I used the middle-buster to break the sod. I set the sod aside and shoveled most of the topsoil to the loader bucket and then to a remote pile. I dug most of the dry-well pits 3-4 feet deep x 3-feet wide x 53" long (gee, that's the width of my loader bucket /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif). I filled the dry-wells with 3/4 inch drainage/septic rock after lining the pits with landscaping fabric. I laid the fabric on top of the rock and backfilled with 10-12" of topsoil, and replaced the sod. Voila...one aching back and drainage pits that will outlast my ability to use a shovel. With the sod back in place and the excess topsoil aside, you can barely tell I was even in the area. FYI, they took well over an inch of rain in a short period of time yesterday without a puddle or burp.
That's a long answer to tell you that the middle buster will get you started, but only a backhoe or a trencher will keep you in the tractor seat for most of the job. You should know that I am a bit particular because I am proud of my lawn. More importantly, I absolutely HATE having to go back and re-do a job. Especially one that involves digging /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
You seem pretty well set up. Your box blade might not quite cover your tracks, but that shouldn't cause you too much grief for most work. I trust you did get the 410 loader, too?
As far as the middle-buster, yes it will create broad trenches for you, but probably not as deep as you may want to run your drainage pipe. I just finished up the exact same project for five downspouts running the pipe out 20-feet from the foundation (I have a wet, but fairly well-drained homesite). Three more downspouts drain to the driveway, which is another project.
I ended up digging the majority of the work by hand with a lanscaper tree/tile spade (short handle, 16" long x 6"-8" wide blade) even though I used the middle-buster to break the sod. I set the sod aside and shoveled most of the topsoil to the loader bucket and then to a remote pile. I dug most of the dry-well pits 3-4 feet deep x 3-feet wide x 53" long (gee, that's the width of my loader bucket /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif). I filled the dry-wells with 3/4 inch drainage/septic rock after lining the pits with landscaping fabric. I laid the fabric on top of the rock and backfilled with 10-12" of topsoil, and replaced the sod. Voila...one aching back and drainage pits that will outlast my ability to use a shovel. With the sod back in place and the excess topsoil aside, you can barely tell I was even in the area. FYI, they took well over an inch of rain in a short period of time yesterday without a puddle or burp.
That's a long answer to tell you that the middle buster will get you started, but only a backhoe or a trencher will keep you in the tractor seat for most of the job. You should know that I am a bit particular because I am proud of my lawn. More importantly, I absolutely HATE having to go back and re-do a job. Especially one that involves digging /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
I got the 410 loader and a 60" mmm. After taking off the mower, I am really second guessing myself on it. Maybe a 3 pt. mower would have been the way to go. As far as that trenching job, I have removed all the top soil, set it aside and have been blading off the clay, creating a better slope away from the house. I will be putting about 6" of topsoil back on it, so I won't have to dig very deep to install my drain pipe. The middle buster will have to dig through clay. I, too don't want to go back over and redo this job.
Danboy,
While now may be the best time to switch mowers , I found that with practice, I can now install/remove the mower in under 10 minutes. One thing I also do is tie the mower brackets in an "up" position so that if I'm tilling or using the tractor in uneven conditions, they won't catch on anything.
Bob
While now may be the best time to switch mowers , I found that with practice, I can now install/remove the mower in under 10 minutes. One thing I also do is tie the mower brackets in an "up" position so that if I'm tilling or using the tractor in uneven conditions, they won't catch on anything.
Bob
Heath
Silver Member
I agree with Bob in MN regarding your ability to install and remove it faster after you've practiced a few times. I can ususally get mine on or off in about 5 minutes.
My biggest issue is rolling the mower under the tractor from the side. I have a real hard time with that and I'm 6'3"/235lbs!
I'd like to come up with a real low profile set of casters that I can lower the mower onto before I remove it. I'm still in the "mental designing" stage on that project!
I love my 4110, I'm sure you will too.
Heath
My biggest issue is rolling the mower under the tractor from the side. I have a real hard time with that and I'm 6'3"/235lbs!
I'd like to come up with a real low profile set of casters that I can lower the mower onto before I remove it. I'm still in the "mental designing" stage on that project!
I love my 4110, I'm sure you will too.
Heath
Danboy and Heath,
Both you guys are wrestling the 60 inch decks and I've got the 54. I think there's a significant weight difference between the 2 decks so I think Heath's idea of casters is a good one.
Regarding tieing up the brackets--I found that out through experience. One other thing I will point out is the cotter pins that hold the mower bracket system in place are very flimsy in my opinion. They may have changed this or they may be heavier on the 4110, but if they didn't, I would replace them with heavier pins. When using the tractor in rough terrain, I have seen the cotter pins bent straight which would allow them to fall out in turn allowing the pin that holds the bracket together to fall out. If that happened and you backed up and caught the loose bracket arm in the dirt, I think there could be some serious damage.
The 4110 is a nice machine--have fun.
Bob
Both you guys are wrestling the 60 inch decks and I've got the 54. I think there's a significant weight difference between the 2 decks so I think Heath's idea of casters is a good one.
Regarding tieing up the brackets--I found that out through experience. One other thing I will point out is the cotter pins that hold the mower bracket system in place are very flimsy in my opinion. They may have changed this or they may be heavier on the 4110, but if they didn't, I would replace them with heavier pins. When using the tractor in rough terrain, I have seen the cotter pins bent straight which would allow them to fall out in turn allowing the pin that holds the bracket together to fall out. If that happened and you backed up and caught the loose bracket arm in the dirt, I think there could be some serious damage.
The 4110 is a nice machine--have fun.
Bob
Dutch445
Elite Member
I think if you check with your local dealer, there is a mower deck latch up kit that can be added to the back of your tractor to keep the mower deck, (or just arms) in the up position. (BM19507) We sell this to people that want to use the 3pt with an implement, but don't want to take the mower deck off. (rake etc.) Also, when installing or removing the deck, don't forget to turn the wheels sideways, it also lowers the deck on the wheels for a little more clearance depending on what mowing height you had them set for.
from deere:
BM19507 LOCK-UP KIT
A lock-up kit is available as a field installed option to allow locking the mid-mower in the raised position by inserting the lock pins into draft arms. This allows for the 3-point hitch to be raised and lowered independently of the mid-mower.
from deere:
BM19507 LOCK-UP KIT
A lock-up kit is available as a field installed option to allow locking the mid-mower in the raised position by inserting the lock pins into draft arms. This allows for the 3-point hitch to be raised and lowered independently of the mid-mower.
What really bothered me about sliding the deck out was I did it on my concrete drive pad and I know this was pretty abrasive on the plastic wheels and roller. A few times doing this and they will be pretty chewed up. I suppose I could do it out in the grass but then I would have to drag the whole deck to the garage.
yellowsocks93
Veteran Member
I know on my mid mount for the 4300 I could put the rear wheels in the side position so they would easily slide the mower deck off. If your front wheels are spring loaded just unhook the spring and then the wheels will turn so you have all 4 wheels in the side position. I got a rear mount JD 272 finish mower with my new 990 and I like it for the fact that you can easily clean and remove it but it's a bear for going around a lot of apple trees. IF your dealer has a used JD 261 rear finish mower you might ask him if you could try it on you machine. The cutting width is 60''.