vtsnowedin
Elite Member
Isn't it true that those overrun /underrun calculations are only valid when the tractor is pulling straight ahead on a hard surface? As soon as you start making sharp curves like in loader work the fronts are taking travel paths that vary in length from the paths the rears are taking. It is impossible to have the ratio right all the time as there are too many variables and unknowns.
Out in mud or snow having more overrun would work better as the spinning front wheels would pull the front end in the direction you want to go rather then acting like a rudder on a boat that the rear tires are pushing. And the low friction of the mud or snow would allow the tire that is out of sync to just slid or spin to balance the load..
Of course the highest stress on the tires would come from a dry paved road while you were pulling a full load so that is what the manual sets you up to minimise the wear.
The other night I forgot to take my pickup out of 4x4 and drove it all the 35 miles to work at 75 mph. Never bothered until I went to make a ninety degree turn into the parking spot at work and the tire that was taking the shortest path began to bind. Felt like I had the Ebrake on.:ashamed:
Out in mud or snow having more overrun would work better as the spinning front wheels would pull the front end in the direction you want to go rather then acting like a rudder on a boat that the rear tires are pushing. And the low friction of the mud or snow would allow the tire that is out of sync to just slid or spin to balance the load..
Of course the highest stress on the tires would come from a dry paved road while you were pulling a full load so that is what the manual sets you up to minimise the wear.
The other night I forgot to take my pickup out of 4x4 and drove it all the 35 miles to work at 75 mph. Never bothered until I went to make a ninety degree turn into the parking spot at work and the tire that was taking the shortest path began to bind. Felt like I had the Ebrake on.:ashamed:
