New CK2610 : rough running/clanging engine, cold and hot

[mangler]

Robin,

Thanks for the suggestions. Still working on the delivery tank of fuel, but I have 2 give gallon cans waiting, with some Motomaster 5 in 1 added in the diesel ( cetane, lubricity, gelling and more)? I do have a 6 month me need him to Amsoil, so I may get a bottle of cetane boost to test the difference. I like the Amsoil oil a lot, but not the price. I will stick with Mobil Delvac 0W40, just as good and cheaper. I did get a pail of their GLC grease though, as its top notch.

Fred,

I would hope the preheater is working, with only 13 hours on the clock. I will look for the rpm surge to make sure. One question, when I reverse the key to activate glow plug pre-heat, does it stop on its own if I just keep the key turned? I always stop after 6-8 secs as I am scared of damaging the glow plugs.

 

[The Fred]

Before you go further test the connection at the piece I showed you there. Mine melted the connector at that picture location with just 5 hours on the machine. I don't find that cycling the plugs twice is really needed but mine is performing as designed. I DO however need one full cycle of the plugs, turn the key on and watch the glow light, it takes a couple seconds to come on after the instrument cluster self test. Wait until the light goes off and fire the engine, it should run fairly smooth if you let it go a full glow plug cycle.

I notice on mine it will smoke white a little bit and run rough IF the intake pre-heater fuse is pulled. Do you have a test light? If so when you start the machine check for 13.5ish volts at the pre-heater connection. If you have volts it still doesn't mean the grid is using it, that requires an amp draw test. Also if you start the engine cold and feel heat at the connector under the rubber boot at the pre-heater grid you might have a bad connection there; it's an 8 or 10mm wrench size (can't remember).

You bought a non-emissions engine, they don't start and run nearly as nice as a computer controlled common rail engine. They do not however have problems down the road because the systems aren't there to cause any.

 

[mangler]

Fred,

Thanks for the detailed troubleshooting tips, I will have to look now. I have a clamp ampmeter (somewhere) and a voltmeter, so that will not be an issue. May I add that a failure of this type 5 hrs in is complete BS? Did they fix this under warranty, or at least provide you with a new/upgraded part?

Your starting process is exactly was I was expecting and doing for the first starts, but she would bellow black smoke right in my face. The reverse key starts pretty much reduced that to a tolerable level, but maybe it's related to that fried pre-heater...

 

[The Fred]

I fix stuff for a living so I never went back to the dealer. We drink beer though, told me Saturday after like 10 beers and a few games of cornhole that their sales are through the roof.

If you don't like the machine you can sell it right now and not lose any money because, he said, there aren't any available.

I'll add that a correcty running 2610 will smoke a little black on startup. White smoke is usually caused from incomplete combustion.

 

[mangler]

I fix stuff for a living so I never went back to the dealer. We drink beer though, told me Saturday after like 10 beers and a few games of cornhole that their sales are through the roof.

If you don't like the machine you can sell it right now and not lose any money because, he said, there aren't any available.

I'll add that a correcty running 2610 will smoke a little black on startup. White smoke is usually caused from incomplete combustion.

Thanks , I will take a video starting "cold" with a normal glow plug cycle, it is more than a little black smoke... When I give it a reverse cycle, It gives a little puff, which I suspect is closer to normal.

Still like the machine, used my box blade for the first time yesterday, it did everything I wanted even with a full 72" box blade. I low and sometimes had to use diff lock, but I still was impressed. Not trading it in, but I also bought a new tractor because I did not want a project. Bringing it to the dealer is a royal PIA, so I don't mind fixing it in my garage as long as Kioti springs for the parts.

Did you end up replacing the connector with an OTS part? Did you have to upgrade the wiring?

 

[The Fred]

I used an off the shelf connector crimped and soldered. Mine burned right at the connector there in the picture on the right.

 

[mangler]

Here she is starting "cold", 70deg, with single standard glow plug cycle. I tried to get the full puff of black smoke with the camera, but I missed the initial plume.

[video]https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xzwMkD2HVESah0-c5DKHT4YaOQFaEOzy/view?usp=sharing[/video]

If I am looking at the right connector, mine looks fine.

I will still get some electrical testing done on the next start.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I have never heard the clapping or ticking of a Diesel Engine ignition event, described as a clanky noise.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Sounds healthy to me.

 

[mangler]

Sounds healthy to me.

Check the video on post 16, you can hear the mechanical noises much better. The latest one was for the startup smoke, which I kind of missed filming. It definitely pollutes the whole garage. Somehow with the slightly higher temperature the pinging was a little less pronounced on the last video.

I have heard clicking/injector noise in diesels, what I was hearing was pinging, like someone hitting a cast iron housing with a hammer. MIE explained this was the pre-ignition chambers, and everyone seems to think it is mostly normal. It may be a low cetane fuel issue also, I will be able to test when I start with a fresh tank with some cetane boost.