Oil & Fuel New CK30 Owner and New to Forum

[jrkaye]

Please forgive my ignorance as this is the first tractor, besides a Deere L118 rider mower I ever owned/operated. I went from a few missteps to Triple A proficiency in about 7 tractor hours without leveling block walls (though I did clip one corner that will need repair ). Ok so, on the rear of the CK30 is the fill and dipstick for the hydraulics, am I correct? The liquid is so clear it's hard to see the exact level.


I've read the manual numerous times and certain things simply aren't very clear for a rookie. Recommended hydraulic fluid? Recommended Engine Oil is 10-40W I think but need to reread chapters in the manual. MY main concern is the rear fill and dipstick by the PTO. Am I correct in my assumption this is hydraulics only? Did I miss something?

You are faced with the most basic rookie on planet earth on tractor operation and maintenance, be gentle please

 

[k0ua]

Please forgive my ignorance as this is the first tractor, besides a Deere L118 rider mower I ever owned/operated. I went from a few missteps to Triple A proficiency in about 7 tractor hours without leveling block walls (though I did clip one corner that will need repair ). Ok so, on the rear of the CK30 is the fill and dipstick for the hydraulics, am I correct? The liquid is so clear it's hard to see the exact level.


I've read the manual numerous times and certain things simply aren't very clear for a rookie. Recommended hydraulic fluid? Recommended Engine Oil is 10-40W I think but need to reread chapters in the manual. MY main concern is the rear fill and dipstick by the PTO. Am I correct in my assumption this is hydraulics only? Did I miss something?

You are faced with the most basic rookie on planet earth on tractor operation and maintenance, be gentle please

Look in your manual for the specific hydraulic/tractor fluid.. It IS a special fluid rated for use with hydraulics and wet brakes.. My DK35se manual specifies several brands. I use Mobilefluid 424. The engine oil goes (must be a diesel rated oil I uses Shell Rotella) into the fill cap up by the injector pump. An orange rubber twist cap.

The hydraulic fluid runs several things, all of the hydraulics on the tractor, including the Front End Loader (FEL), and the Three point lift on the rear of your tractor and any auxiliary hydraulic ports you may have, as well as cooling and lubrication for a standard transmission, and also operating fluid for a hydrostatic transmission. It is all a common sump, and is considered the "tank" in the hydraulic system. The front axle does not share in this fluid, as it is it's own closed system reservoir.

Welcome to TBN, and please continue asking any questions you have, no matter how "silly" you may think they are, as we are here to help you.

 

[jrkaye]

Look in your manual for the specific hydraulic/tractor fluid.. It IS a special fluid rated for use with hydraulics and wet brakes.. My DK35se manual specifies several brands. I use Mobilefluid 424. The engine oil goes (must be a diesel rated oil I uses Shell Rotella) into the fill cap up by the injector pump. An orange rubber twist cap.

The hydraulic fluid runs several things, all of the hydraulics on the tractor, including the Front End Loader (FEL), and the Three point lift on the rear of your tractor and any auxiliary hydraulic ports you may have, as well as cooling and lubrication for a standard transmission, and also operating fluid for a hydrostatic transmission. It is all a common sump, and is considered the "tank" in the hydraulic system. The front axle does not share in this fluid, as it is it's own closed system reservoir.

Welcome to TBN, and please continue asking any questions you have, no matter how "silly" you may think they are, as we are here to help you.

Thank you James. So the dipstick on the left side rear, and the fill cap ARE the Hydraulic check and fill specifics? If you have children and they ask a question, think of me in that same light, for the moment . We've owned the property since '08 and when the house was built in '82 that was the last time grading, leveling, weed control and a myriad of other things were performed with a tractor. Old folks that passed away and only took care of the house. It's been quite a task to get it looking decent but the drought retarded growth, then we experienced a welcomed rain event for 12 some days that pointed out problem areas that I can correct with this nifty tractor. Don't laugh but except for sitting on a IH some years ago, I'd never been on, let alone operated a tractor in my life. Most work was done by back breaking work. I finally said enough already :laughing: . I have 4 horses in pasture that wasn't even fenced until we bought the place. that's going to be another whole ball of wax and attachment. I AM loving this tractor, it's not too much, not too little and is surprisingly powerful for what is considered a "compact" tractor. My neighbor are cotton farmers so they run the BIG stuff. Thanks again for any tricks/tips/gimmicks I may need to adhere to.

Regards,

Jeff

 

[k0ua]

Yes, the dipstick and the fill cap on the back are ONLY for the specified hydraulic fluid. Check the dipstick on level ground only with all Hydraulic implements in the down position. (FEL down on the ground and 3 point down on the ground) This will give you an accurate reading. If you FEL is up for instance, that means the hydraulic cylinders have been filled with fluid from the "tank" and therefore the "tank" level will be lower. As you lower the cylinders the fluid is expelled from them back into the "tank" raising the fluid level on the dipstick.

On a second note, have you been following the maintaince schedule. As to oil and filter, hydraulic fluid and filter(s) (two filters if you have a hydrostatic transmission) and fuel filter?

How many hours, on the beast and how much maintenance have you performed. Greasing the loader grease zerks every 10 hours?.. Chassis zerks every 50? Have you checked wheel bolt torque every 50 when new, and every 100 thereafter? Loader bolt torque?. clutch free play if equipped, ( I don't have one on my Kioti)?

I am just full of questions aren't I? But if you take care of your tractor, it will serve you well for a very long time.

Ask any questions you like, if you don't understand something.

 

[jrkaye]

She's brand spanky new and spent her first 3+ hours brush hogging, then the next some front loader work up to JUST now 7 hours. I've followed the book religiously by a slow throttle and break in period rather than trying to exceed RPM's and all that. I think I spent 2 running hours on the front bucket learning and experimenting so as not to damage the machine nor any standing structure . Thank you again for alleviating any concerns about the hydraulics, I had a good notion but thought it wise to consult folks that have this down to a science. Much appreciated. My dealer has been great but he's got a business to run and doesn't need me calling every hour. His son delivered and went through the basics and watched me until he thought I wouldn't harm the machine or worse.

Jeff

 

[murphy1244]

Welcome to TBN and the Pack

Check your wheel bolts and loader bolts for proper torque.

 

[jrkaye]

Welcome to TBN and the Pack

Check your wheel bolts and loader bolts for proper torque.

Good point, thank you.

 

[lockhaven]

is the tractor hydrostatic or geared? I have a geared CK30

 

[jrkaye]

Geared CK30

 

[k0ua]

If you haven't found out already working in close proximity to buildings, a tractor can tear up buildings and corners and doors in a hurry! Tree bark is not safe either, nor flower beds, or mailboxes..etc.:laughing:

 

[jrkaye]

If you haven't found out already working in close proximity to buildings, a tractor can tear up buildings and corners and doors in a hurry! Tree bark is not safe either, nor flower beds, or mailboxes..etc.:laughing:

Learned my lesson fast with the front end bucket a tad too high so that I could see above and below. Probably $400 damage to some cinder block work (I didn't like that part of the wall anyway). That was lesson #1) Within 2 hours of my ownership. Yep, I was more than upset but called the little woman to say..."OOPS"...she just said "your dime to fix the wall and pay better attention". The next 5 hours were pure pleasure. A wonderful machine and certainly capable of what I need to do. More attachments like a post hole digger and perhaps a back hoe ? I'll be downright dangerous. One baby step at a time for me. No hurry and just want to maintain the investment in good condition with proper fluid levels. I admit to having some concerns about brand but this Kiotii and it's 4 year warranty, well, good bang for the buck.

The brush hog has already paid for itself, the front end loader as well and I still have the box blade waiting for a test. Think of a gravel/stone drive that over the years went to seed from weed/ wild grass and too much for a guy to hoe, spray and maintain every year to just keep a slight perimeter. West Texas heat and I don't agree . My main driveway is asphalt that runs ~ 500 feet in the front, the circular cuts off halfway, past a RV barn and back to the main road all stone/gravel but way too overgrown. AH, I feel the need to smile, finally, that I have the equipment to handle the issue....money well spent, I thought.

I embrace any and all comments and tips. I've never been so out of my comfort zone with a piece of equipment that can, potentially, do major damage, if not careful. I know where my underground lines are, I'm aware of break in period and I will practice a lot on the land that's pretty much "let her rip" property. Can't wait to excavate for a personal gun range now that I can move dirt/railroad ties and assorted material to make it safe. Being in the middle of nowhere, I have room to play

 

[DK35vince]

I admit to having some concerns about brand but this Kiotii and it's 4 year warranty, well, good bang for the buck.

When I bought my DK 35 (13 years ago) I had some concern also, because there were very few Kioti tractors in my area at the time.
But 13 years and nearing 1900 hours, my Kioti DK has been awesome.
Never gives me any problems and works great.

 

[k0ua]

A set of lightweight pallet forks, can be helpful with your railroad ties. Grapple of course is cooler, but more investment in hydraulics. Yes tractors are cool, but just like guns you have to respect the power.

 

[lockhaven]

remember the shuttle shift is not an automatic. you need to STOP before changing directions. Only use 4 wheel drive when it is necessary never on hard dry surfaces. You will find that the 4X4 lever does not disengage as easy as it engages, I push the clutch in and let the tractor drift in the opposite direction you were going. This relieves the pressure on the gears, as it slowly drifts just a few inches are required, I use my right heal to push the lever down to disengage. When carrying heavy loads in the loader or any time for that matter keep the loader bucket as low as possible. With heavy loads do not drive fast, the tractor will get to bouncing and with a load it causes tremendous stress on the loader arms. If you are picking up something with a chain be sure the chain is hooked as near center on the loader as possible and never out side the loader arms. just a few suggestions from the east.:drink:

 

[k0ua]

When carrying heavy loads in the loader or any time for that matter keep the loader bucket as low as possible.

If you learned nothing else from this thread, this one thing above will do more for keeping the shiny side up and the dirty side down on your new tractor than any thing else I can think of.

 

[chuck172]

You might not know, I didn't at first, but you have a two stage clutch. That means you don't have to push down all the way to shift from forward to reverse. Same as to shifting gears. Just a light short push with your left leg, and shuttle.

 

[TJP89]

Geared CK30

I'm curious, why did you go with a geared over HST? Most people have a reason for the gear tranny, and must new users (including me) go for the HST. Just wondering why you went gear.

 

[jrkaye]

I'm curious, why did you go with a geared over HST? Most people have a reason for the gear tranny, and must new users (including me) go for the HST. Just wondering why you went gear.

I compared price points, loads, potential usage, availability, attachment options and maintenance and while most were pretty close side by side I went with the CK30 versus the CK35 that a friend of mine owns. I gave up a little on the lift/load capacity but overalll bought what I believed was the model for my use and price range. The dealer was most helpful in answering questions and in his opinion agreed that the CK 30 would be the best suited for me. That said I had originally looked at the DS3510 as it was cheaper but this is the last year they are being offered and it didn't stack up to the CK30. Personal decision for the investment. We scored the front end loader free by not financing. I bought the box blade and brush hog as these are 2 attachments that are critical for what I need to do. FWIW, the horse shelter has never been more cleaned out and leveled than it was as of yesterday's adventure into front end work in a small space. NO ACCIDENTS I'm getting the hang of it. 8 hours into operation and nothing is rattling, dirty, loose and I've finished off 4 major "honey do's" . That, gentlemen, makes for a happy camper.

 

[jrkaye]

remember the shuttle shift is not an automatic. you need to STOP before changing directions. Only use 4 wheel drive when it is necessary never on hard dry surfaces. You will find that the 4X4 lever does not disengage as easy as it engages, I push the clutch in and let the tractor drift in the opposite direction you were going. This relieves the pressure on the gears, as it slowly drifts just a few inches are required, I use my right heal to push the lever down to disengage. When carrying heavy loads in the loader or any time for that matter keep the loader bucket as low as possible. With heavy loads do not drive fast, the tractor will get to bouncing and with a load it causes tremendous stress on the loader arms. If you are picking up something with a chain be sure the chain is hooked as near center on the loader as possible and never out side the loader arms. just a few suggestions from the east.:drink:

I'm very familiar with clutch and reversing directions as a child of the 60's when muscle cars and I enjoyed many a mile. A clutch is a clutch is a clutch, if you get my drift. Unless I was speed shifting to impress the gal in the passenger seat, I realized replacing clutches wasn't on my top 10 things to do . Slow, clutch, stop, change, ease clutch and slow start. I need this tractor to last quite some time

 

[Ranchofla]

If you haven't found out already working in close proximity to buildings, a tractor can tear up buildings and corners and doors in a hurry! Tree bark is not safe either, nor flower beds, or mailboxes..etc.:laughing:

Don't forget other vehicles....

Rancho