New deck on my trailer today.

[Renze]

Looks nice. I bought my trailer brand new with wolmanized wood on it that lasted 5 years. .... I understand why the put that angle iron on there, but I also think it causes the wood to rot prematurely.

I buy Douglas fir from my neighbour, who saws it with a Woodmizer. He told me to treat it with a 50/50 mix of used engine oil and coal-tar creosote. He says as long as its greasy it will repel water, and the oil will especially get into the crevices where normally rot and rust begin. In the summer when the wood is bone dry, i park it in the bush, throw a bucket of oil/tar mixture over it and use a standard pavement sweep to rub it in. Then after a few days the last drops fell off and i park it back on its usual spot.

 

[topbuilder]

My 20' trailer has the old CCA treated boards (20 years old). I buy up any discounted deck sealer I see regardless of color, and spray it heavy with a pump up sprayer every couple of years. Seems to be holding up very well.

I'm concerned what the new treated wood will do to a trailer. When used for building, you can only used galvanized fasteners, they say regular nails will rust away. Not sure if contact with angle iron will also be problematic...

 

[two_bit_score]

I buy Douglas fir from my neighbour, who saws it with a Woodmizer. He told me to treat it with a 50/50 mix of used engine oil and coal-tar creosote. He says as long as its greasy it will repel water, and the oil will especially get into the crevices where normally rot and rust begin. In the summer when the wood is bone dry, i park it in the bush, throw a bucket of oil/tar mixture over it and use a standard pavement sweep to rub it in. Then after a few days the last drops fell off and i park it back on its usual spot.

Wouldn't 50/50 linseed oil/turpentine be better?


TBS

 

[GLyford]

I'm concerned what the new treated wood will do to a trailer. When used for building, you can only used galvanized fasteners, they say regular nails will rust away. Not sure if contact with angle iron will also be problematic...

I have seen guys put the butyl flashing like they use around windows on the metal parts of their trailers before putting down the treated wood. Finding the right fasteners is likely problematic...I would expect the self-drilling ones to wear off any coating they might have one it hits the metal, would not be surprised to see them start to corrode and break off flush over time.

I have seen white oak treated with motor oil and diesel last 20 years without further treatment, I would imagine creosote would be be good too...we can't get it here anymore.

 

[topbuilder]

"I have seen guys put the butyl flashing like they use around windows on the metal parts of their trailers before putting down the treated wood."

That might do it. I have to redo my cattle trailer this fall. I'll keep that in mind.

 

[two_bit_score]

I have seen guys put the butyl flashing like they use around windows on the metal parts of their trailers before putting down the treated wood. Finding the right fasteners is likely problematic...I would expect the self-drilling ones to wear off any coating they might have one it hits the metal, would not be surprised to see them start to corrode and break off flush over time.

I have seen white oak treated with motor oil and diesel last 20 years without further treatment, I would imagine creosote would be be good too...we can't get it here anymore.

"I have seen guys put the butyl flashing like they use around windows on the metal parts of their trailers before putting down the treated wood."

That might do it. I have to redo my cattle trailer this fall. I'll keep that in mind.

That is good thought. I think using auto body seam sealer might be a good idea.

TBS

 

[Qapla]

We will be putting a new deck on our trailer. It needs 18' boards for the deck where they meet a 4' steel area. The back end has a slight bend down in it. We are planning on replacing it with pressure treated from Home Depot because they carry ones that are rated "ground contact/water proof"