New elec-hyd rear 3rd SCV on 40 series?

[ctlguy]

 

[AKfish]

Thanks, kenny for the additional clarification. I'm guessing that the pics ctlguy posted are the ones that you tried to include in your explanation.

Pictures are really worth a "thousand words" - thanks ctlguy!

I have a much better understanding of how the new JD hydraulic option is configured.

jgrreed's comment about the pricing of the JD option versus doing it yourself will be interesting to see how that "shakes out" , too.

AKfish

 

[jenkinsph]

I would be more interested if you could have 4 or 5 rear sets of outlets in the rear and still have the 3 front outlets for the fel. Seems you need 4 circuits for a rearblade at the rear for example.

 

[AKfish]

I would be more interested if you could have 4 or 5 rear sets of outlets in the rear and still have the 3 front outlets for the fel. Seems you need 4 circuits for a rearblade at the rear for example.

That would be real sweet...!! :thumbsup: I've been looking at the HD Frontier 7' or 8' rear blade (2307 and 2308) and they need 3 SCV's.

Not sure if the 8' would be too much "iron" wagging off the back end of a 4520 or not!

AKfish

 

[jgrreed]

That would be real sweet...!! :thumbsup: I've been looking at the HD Frontier 7' or 8' rear blade (2307 and 2308) and they need 3 SCV's.

Not sure if the 8' would be too much "iron" wagging off the back end of a 4520 or not!

AKfish

8' would be fine for snow and gravel, not sure about dirt. Remember that an 8' blade, when angled, is likely only about 6.5' - I learned this with my 7'.

jgrreed's comment about the pricing of the JD option versus doing it yourself will be interesting to see how that "shakes out" , too.

I'll bet you a beer that if you're willing and able to do the hydraulics work yourself (or at least the majority of it) you'll definitely come in cheaper to plan, design, source, and build your own extra SCV system vs. paying for a JD kit (or several kit's). The electronics are not expensive, and 'inexpensive' (ie Italian) hydraulic components aren't all that bad in terms of price. I'd hazard to guess that if I was in the US and had easier access to surplus center or someplace like it, my hardware bill would be under 2k. It's the shop labour that's killing me, and to some extent using Parker valves.

Check this out http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/189847-my-new-circuits-2.html for the extra SCV solution.

-Jer.

 

[jenkinsph]

I just took a moment to price a four spool Prince valve with 12v solenoids at surplus hydraulics and built one with three cylinder spools and one motor spool just for kicks and came up with $1229. The long ans short of it is that for roughly $400/section you should be able to buy vaves, couplers and switches. Still have to add for power beyond, hoses and some specific fittings. Certainly a doable project for those needing the extra circuits.

In my case the only thing that needs over three spools is the rear blade and I might consider mounting the extra hydraulics needed to the implement itself. This would certainly free up some of the conjestion on the rear of the tractor and I could simply plug in the electric control lead when using the rear blade. Just a thought.



For the 110tlb, talked about it before but I can tee into the front auxillary lines and and add the rear couplers so that using the diverter I can have access to four sets of ports. That would work well for me in most cases as I rarely use the front aux hydraulics. Obviously you can't use this at the front and rear simultaneously but you could unplug the ones you aren't using. This way you still have the front two bucket functions and have four rear functions all on the joystick. This is just another reason why I wish Deere would offer the same thing on the 4x20 series that is offered on the 110tlb.

 

[Cidertom]

That would be real sweet...!! :thumbsup: I've been looking at the HD Frontier 7' or 8' rear blade (2307 and 2308) and they need 3 SCV's.

Not sure if the 8' would be too much "iron" wagging off the back end of a 4520 or not!

AKfish

I doubt it. I have a 7 ft 3 way hydraulic rear blade(landpride RBT4084) and am not taxing the tractor. If I'm really taking a big angle bite I have to fill the FEL with rock to keep the front end down for control. Rear R4 are filled as well. I wanted a CAT 1-2 blade as the 4520 tore up my old cat 1 rear blade. A couple of times I have regretted not getting the '96 version, but the job I was on woud have made it awkward.

I added my own EH valve for the 4in1. Freeing up the 3scv for the offset position on the blade. So far I have had no problems with the diverter setup for the rear couplers. For the blade the joystick is intutitive and I would want that type of control. I used the same control handle as the 110tlb. So I can trip the diverter from the joystick. I did add a big red LED on a loader mast that tells me I am in divert. As I have had a couple of surprises...

 

[jgrreed]

I just took a moment to price a four spool Prince valve with 12v solenoids at surplus hydraulics and built one with three cylinder spools and one motor spool just for kicks and came up with $1229. The long ans short of it is that for roughly $400/section you should be able to buy vaves, couplers and switches. Still have to add for power beyond, hoses and some specific fittings. Certainly a doable project for those needing the extra circuits.

JD PB - about 350$
JD 3rd line kit for loader arm - about 450$
Grip - 130$
Switches - ~30$ a piece
Fittings, hoses, wiring, shrouding, etc - few hundred, maybe??

The JD PB and 3rd line kit are unnecessary according to the guys at the shop. They could've brewed everything up much cheaper. You can but a manifold with as many places on it as you might ever need (I chose 5), and plug off the ones that you don't want to use at the time. That way you don't have to throw away the manifold if you ever want to upgrade.

-Jer.

 

[AKfish]

I added my own EH valve for the 4in1. Freeing up the 3scv for the offset position on the blade. So far I have had no problems with the diverter setup for the rear couplers. For the blade the joystick is intutitive and I would want that type of control. I used the same control handle as the 110tlb. So I can trip the diverter from the joystick. I did add a big red LED on a loader mast that tells me I am in divert. As I have had a couple of surprises...

Thanks, Tom. I use my rear blade mostly for snow removal and corral cleanup.

The offset and hyd angle would be the "cats PJ's" for working in the corral and around the house and parking areas.

Really like the RED LED idea!! I had a big surprise this past fall right after hay season. I was working my disc mower over - pre winterization - replacing the gear case and cutter bar oil, etc.

The mower was attached to the tractor and I needed to pick something up with the FEL - well, after the initial "what the h@ll" - I realized that the disc mower had smashed into the turn signal/flasher light at the top of the ROPS! The tilt cylinder pulled the mower cutter bar right into the ROPS.

Forgot that the diverter was engaged to the rear SCV's...

AKfish

 

[DMG Tractor]

Great thread, might likely resolve this issue.

I ordered a 4105 with the 300 cx and it appears there may be an issue how it was configured and ordered regarding the 3rd scv and third loader function.

I do believe the dealer is going to make things right however i am trying to independently research and educate myself on the gear required in order have the machine do what I specified before buying it.

I wanted a third loader function (for a grapple or power angle blade) controllable from the joystick (which i think is what the switch is for on the joystick in image 190274), i wanted a rear remote (or 3rd svc as I think it is refered to) and i was okay with having to either move a lever or switch to transfer hydraulic flow from the back to to front.

On the configuration paper i think there was listed electrohydraulic 3rd scv, and third function loader lines.. and i am not home so i do not have the paperwork in front of me and I am not a tractor guru so some of it would be greek to me anyway. however what i wanted was certainly clear at the time of purchase ..(and the dealer is not really denying that) and there is a charge there for a couple of grand if I am not mistaken...

Anyway.. I was hoping someone could accurately describe and help me understand what components are required to make it work as i described... I beleive it requires everything in the bottom 3 photos and possibly some solenoids or valves not seen in these photos?

Signed.. I wish i had my tractor already "Dave"