New engine breakin.

   / New engine breakin. #1  

Volfandt

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2004
Messages
1,950
Location
TN
Tractor
2004 Kubota BX23, 1966 WheelHorse 856
Greetings and Merry Christmas to all.

I've always used the "break it in like your going to use it" philosophy but according to the BX's operators manual that I've been enjoyably digesting, this quote caught the ole eye, "Do not operate the tractor at full speed for the 1st 50 hours"

Hummmm, I doubt I'll have 50hrs on it before mowing season starts up and since the BX doesn't have a tach I've been told to run WOT when powering the MMM so my question to you, should you choose to accept it, is, how many here have followed those directions or just broke their machines in just like they planned to use 'em?

As a side note, I managed to aquire an operators manual on my old 1948 TE20 and it stated the same 50hr breakin dislaimer too. (alerady broke in. Had 15 yrs of great service, since sold)

As a side note part deaux, my new Harley stated not to run it at a steady speed for 500 miles for breakin. (18yrs of great service, since sold)

As a side note part trey, my F150 didn't have any breakin restrictions at all, that I recall anyways. (still running strong at 120K miles)

As a side note part ahhh, ahhhh, ummm four, my JD L130 w/ Kohler command didn't have any restrictions on breakin either except to change the oil at the 1st 5hrs. (still have it but it's now for sale, needs a bigger trailer now).

Thats it for all that I've ever bought new. All my other machinery has already been broke in, most were broke but thats another thread /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Volfandt
 
   / New engine breakin. #2  
Greetings.

Well, I followed the manual on half throttle (might have gone a little above it a few times, but for short bursts and not pulling hard).

Suggest you spend about $60-70 and order the tiny tach discussed on this site (search for tiny tach in the kubota forums and you'll get lots of info and pics). I don't know HOW that thing works, but it seems to be very accurate as it pegs both my idle and WOT as what is listed in the manual. Its an easy installation too.

I found during the breakin that my FEL would work fine at 1/2 throttle. I didn't use the MMM much, but it also cut fine in dry short fescue at 1/2 throttle. If it cuts that well at 1/2, it almost scares me how fast I could cut at FULL throttle. As it was, I put TWO small FEL divots in the wood shed mowing with the FEL on and going slow. Had I been WOT, I probably would have destroyed the shed!

My tiller works great at 1/2 throttle and the PHD works fine at just above idle.

Only time I drooled for more throttle (and power) was pulling dirt with the box blade............

My guess is the BX can handle WOT and not hurt it a bit. I didn't want to chance it.

Best wishes,
ron
 
   / New engine breakin. #3  
The topic of break in RPM has been discussed many times and I think the concensus of opinion is to not worry about it much. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif The dealers I've talked to always said to go ahead and start "using" the tractor from the start. Your manual says not to operated it at "full speed" and while you can certainly mow at that speed later with no harm, PTO speed is probably actually a couple of hundred RPM less than "full speed". So in my opinion:

1) Vary the speed a good bit instead of holding a steady speed - whether slow or fast - the first 50 hours (basically the same recommendation as your Harley),

2) In addition to varying the speed, you want to put some load on the engine; just don't lug it, and of course I'd vary the load, too.

3) And beyond that, go ahead and do whatever work you want to with the tractor.
 
   / New engine breakin. #4  
I dont think the RPM's are the issue. Its more important not to load the engine to hard. I have 11 hrs on mine now, a few lawn cuts and 5 hrs snowblowing. Im using it as I would if it was broke in just making sure not to load the engine to hard and long and also staying around 2900 rpm's for max.
 
   / New engine breakin. #5  
"Vary the speed a good bit instead of holding a steady speed - whether slow or fast - the first 50 hours (basically the same recommendation as your Harley),"

When you running a finish mower (or cutter), you maintain a constant RPM. Well, about every 20 minutes, I'd just idle down a bit.
The first 50 hours (26 for me, since the tractor had 24 hours when I bought it) took a bit longer since I would vary the RPM, which meant longer mowing times.

That's just one season of mowing though...I can live with that.
 
   / New engine breakin. #6  
My dealer told me to ignore the break in instructions and when I had my B7500, there wasn't any mowing or hogging that I could do with it when it wasn't at full throttle. Not and keep the PTO speed where it's supposed to be.
 
   / New engine breakin. #7  
I do what "Bird" stated in #1. Outside of that, I do nothing. Never had a problem to date....
 
   / New engine breakin. #9  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I do what "Bird" stated in #1. Outside of that, I do nothing. Never had a problem to date.... )</font>

I think that is good advice. I would also advise to always let the engine idle a while before using it. Cold starts are hard on engines. I normally let mine start to register on the temperature gauge before I use it.
 
   / New engine breakin.
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Thanks for the replys. Very interesting link on engine breakin too.
Seems I'm babying the BX so much now that I'm highly inclined to break it in as Bird has suggested if not how the manual states. Depends on how it cuts at lower RPM's come mow'n time I rekon.

Started it up and finally got to run it around in some daylight today. I ran it approx 3/4 of an hr and it barely moved the temp gauge. I'm guess'n it was around 30 degrees. Can hardly wait to put it to work /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Heres a pic just outside it's new home.
BX23%20%239.jpg_0005.jpg
 
   / New engine breakin. #11  
Congrats on the new tractor. I think the point has been made to warm a new engine up and then put it under load. When we overhaul tractor engines, the SOP is run it on the dynometer half throttle w/no load for ten minutes, then WOT under rated horse power load for at least two and one half hours. We have had customers purchasing new tractors in the winter that will request that we run the tractor on the dyno for a few hours. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / New engine breakin. #12  
"TRACTORS AND CHAINSAWS ARE GREEN, WEED WACKERS ARE YELLOW"

My color vision Sees TRACTORS and CHAINSAWS AS ORANGE and so are WEED WACKERS!!!
/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / New engine breakin. #13  
You need some dirt on that thing. It just ain't right until it's dirty.
 
   / New engine breakin. #14  
I confess I have been guilty of babying mine during break in.

Why? I don't know for sure.

But I think it was because I thought about it, and determined that I could either follow advice given by someone like me, or I could follow the recommendations of the manufacturer.

Which is more likely to be correct for the long term? Well, if you know me then you may choose to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. I mean, after all, they built it. And have been building them for decades.

If you choose to run full out from day one who will suffer? Probably the next guy, quite a few years later, if anyone.

Me, well, I plan on being the next guy, and keeping my tractors for the rest of my life. So I decided to suffer the consequences of a rather slow break in period.

Still, with the BX and the fact that the hour meter runs at true hours, as compared to tach-driven hour meters on larger tractors, it will not take very long to get 50 hours on the meter regardless of what you do...

So in the end...it may make little difference at all.

In my case I really did, pretty much, follow the manufacturer's recommendations. I just could not find a good reason not to. The MMM seemed to cut pretty good at reduced speed...
 
   / New engine breakin. #15  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Thanks for the replys. Very interesting link on engine breakin too.
Seems I'm babying the BX so much now that I'm highly inclined to break it in as Bird has suggested if not how the manual states. Depends on how it cuts at lower RPM's come mow'n time I rekon. )</font>

You are going to be fine anyway you go about it. As JD2210 said how they run them on the dyno... that's the way most all engines are run at first and that is the major part of the break in phase. I would definately be a little careful when it's BRAND NEW! Just don't redline it or way overload it to were it dies and let it warm up a little bit before use. That is a fine looking machine! It's so cool to see them before there is even a scratch in the bucket!

Have fun!
 
   / New engine breakin. #16  
I do not have an engineering degree. I doubt that my dealer has an engineering degree either.

I am gullible enough to believe that the people who designed my Kubota do have engineering degrees and/or have more experience with Kubota tractors than I do so I am breaking mine in by what the Operator's Manual said.

Bill Tolle
 
   / New engine breakin. #17  
There are two different scenario's that you need to consider. If you have the original Kubota installed Dino oil still in the engine, I would adhere to what Kubota recommends for the first 50 hour and take it easy on the RPM's. However if you have changed it over to Amsoil Synthetic with a Amsoil oil filter as soon as it arrived, you can run that machine wide open throttle for as long as you like. Don't forget to have the oil tested at the 50 hour oil change...... that way, you will know for sure if that Synthetic oil has been doing its job protecting your engine... Three thumbs up for Amsoil... All thumbs down for Dino... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / New engine breakin. #18  
No need to worry about following the Kubota guidelines on my new 3130HST usless I want to drive it to the bottom of my hill and park it. With the hoe on she wants min. 2300 RPM in low range to pull the hill without complaining (bogging down). Drop the RPM and she's working even harder. Run it like intended. Only vehicle I ever strictly followed the breakin rules on dropped a crank at 26,000 miles. Cured me.

My 2 cents.
 

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