I stopped counting at 30 some time ago and haven't given it any more thought. And my wife/children aren't allowed to bring it up. But I do know after 4 hours with the jumping jack at the end of the day, I pulled the 200lb leveling rake back and forth 6 times. Some weird burst of energy.
New garage time!
- Thread starter fatjay
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I stopped counting at 30 some time ago and haven't given it any more thought. And my wife/children aren't allowed to bring it up. But I do know after 4 hours with the jumping jack at the end of the day, I pulled the 200lb leveling rake back and forth 6 times. Some weird burst of energy.
chim
Elite Member
I've been watching this thread and enjoying it a whole lot. Keep up the good work. It may be a bit late to be useful, but I buy spacers and lifting devices from this outfit. We occasionally have a rush job and they do have quick shipping:
CONAC, Concrete Accessories of GA. Lifting, Spacers, Formwork, Concrete Product Solutions.
CONAC, Concrete Accessories of GA. Lifting, Spacers, Formwork, Concrete Product Solutions.
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
If I remember correctly, your building is 24 feet wide. Is that from the inside of each wall? How big are garage door openings?
The reason I ask is that it looks really tight. Can you remove the middle blocks and go with a big metal post instead that will have the same strength, but give you another foot for each door?
Another consideration might be to remove the center post all together and bring the side walls in a little to give you one really big opening for garage door. In my experience, having room on the side walls is very important to me. With your garage doors so close to the side walls, if you drive a car into there, it's going to be tough squeezing in and out of the car with limited room for the doors to open.
It's a pain to change a plan while building, but it's even worse to realize that you could have done it differently when you are done and it's too late to make those changes.
It is 24' wide, 22'8" on the inside. There's a 10x10 garage door and a 10x8 garage door. I'm basing it off of my father's garage which is also 24' wide. I definitely want 2 distinct doors, not one big one in the front. My neighbor did that with his 22' wide garage, and i don't care for it personally. My truck just barely fits in an 8x8, thus going with a 10x10 to buy me some room, plus I'll be able to get my trailer in if I need to, which I really don't anticipate.
The goal is to do minimal actual work in the garage other than automotive work, the real workshop will be on the second floor, which will be wide open.
The goal is to do minimal actual work in the garage other than automotive work, the real workshop will be on the second floor, which will be wide open.
airbiscuit
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2004
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- 6,508
- Location
- NW Wisconsin
- Tractor
- New Holland T2310 (40hp), Kubota L3010 GST, New Holland TC21DA *** Previously - Farmall H, 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura SD1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925
Does that mean both doors will be 10 feet WIDE?
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
My first shop that I built had a 12 foot wide door in it and that was a good size. My current shop, I thought I could get away with saving a buck on the door and have a 10 foot wide door. It's OK, but really smaller then I should have gone. I wont make that mistake again. I can drive my truck in it easy enough, but backing my trailer into takes more effort then I had to apply with the 12 foot door. The only time I put my trailer in my shop is when I have a pallet of concrete on it and we're about to get hit by a thunderstorm. I've done it twice now, and I remember hating it both times!!!!
One door 8’ wide one door 10’ wide both doors 10’ tall. It’s not about money, it’s about span. I don’t want a center post but I want 25lb dead load on the second floor, which means 24’ wide for the floor joists. At 11-3/4 tall. I went through everything possible for joists. Lvl’s, I joist, and decided on metal c joists at 12ga. They had the most load and they’re pre drilled. Lvl is 250$ each and 12” on center and couldn’t drill. I joist was a bit cheaper but didn’t have the load rating.
airbiscuit
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2004
- Messages
- 6,508
- Location
- NW Wisconsin
- Tractor
- New Holland T2310 (40hp), Kubota L3010 GST, New Holland TC21DA *** Previously - Farmall H, 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura SD1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925
I was just thinking about Eddies comment about removing the middle blocks. Instead of 2' of middle blocks, what about 1' of middle blocks? Then you could have a 10' door and a 9' door. Eight feet is pretty narrow.
That said, you are doing awesome work.
That said, you are doing awesome work.
Pixguy
Elite Member
Ya Jay, take these comments as educated suggestions but do what's best for you. You're doing great.