EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Nice that you know the machine so well and you can make the repairs yourself ounce you find the parts. It's that getting to know the machine part that I struggle with.
New garage time!
- Thread starter fatjay
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I had never done anything like that before but I’m mechanically minded. This is a relatively new addition because of the garage. I figured I’d save a lot by doing most of the work myself, so I set out to buy certain machines to make it possible. The 24” bucket for the backhoe is new, sale with bobcat and ditch witch. I made the pallet forks myself as well.
Finished fixing the bobcat, dumped all the fluid and put all new in. The stuff that came out was pretty bad. Swapped the bad clutches, made adjustments, and got rolling. Needed to take 9 12" blocks and 3 8" blocks to each corner to build corners. I was quite nervous.
Here's the video: https://i.imgur.com/KFP8DmT.mp4
Here's the video: https://i.imgur.com/KFP8DmT.mp4
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I'm not familiar with this type of construction. Why not bring the concrete above grade? With the blocks starting below grade, is moisture an issue getting under the blocks? Will you dril holes for rebar to lock the blocks into position?
chim
Elite Member
What are those planks you're taking the SS over? Must be pretty strong.
4570Man
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It’s cheaper to lay block then pour concrete. The footer only needs to be about 10” thick and it’s 36” deep. It would be way more expensive to pour it 36” thick to the top of the ground.
chim
Elite Member
We did a project with fenced concrete pads for outdoor electrical equipment. Each contained a transfer switch, transformer and a switchboard. A couple were in locations that had substantial changes in the grade from one corner to the other. We poured stepped footers, formed foundation walls and then poured the pad to the outside dimensions of the foundation walls. Forming and pouring was a little more involved than laying block, but that's what the plans and specs called for. One handy thing was we fastened short pieces of pipe (vertically) to the inside of the foundation walls and flush with the top of the finished pad before pouring the pad. These were larger than the pipes used for the fence posts and provided sockets we could grout the fence poles into.
For buildings I've also seen poured footers with 12" block from the footer to the bottom of the concrete floor, that stepped back to 8" block for the structure above to provide bearing for the concrete floor.
For buildings I've also seen poured footers with 12" block from the footer to the bottom of the concrete floor, that stepped back to 8" block for the structure above to provide bearing for the concrete floor.
aczlan
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We are building a new building at work and they are doing poured walls up to four feet above the finished floor height. Previous building have been done with block, they are doing poured walls this time for additional strength, because it's significantly faster than block and it's a lot less man-hours.
Aaron Z
My block guy is 3k a week, and that's 20 yards of concrete. $500 for block that he can lay in 2 days vs a day and a half of building forms and probably 4k in concrete, for a strength difference that will likely never come into play. The footer concrete is 18" in front and 24-30" in the back and 24" wide with lots of rebar. And it's sitting on hard clay and huge rocks. Maybe if the soil wasn't so hard I'd want something beefier, but I don't think this is going to move.
