EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Nice that you know the machine so well and you can make the repairs yourself ounce you find the parts. It's that getting to know the machine part that I struggle with.
Nice that you know the machine so well and you can make the repairs yourself ounce you find the parts. It's that getting to know the machine part that I struggle with.
I'm not familiar with this type of construction. Why not bring the concrete above grade? With the blocks starting below grade, is moisture an issue getting under the blocks? Will you dril holes for rebar to lock the blocks into position?
We are building a new building at work and they are doing poured walls up to four feet above the finished floor height. Previous building have been done with block, they are doing poured walls this time for additional strength, because it's significantly faster than block and it's a lot less man-hours.We did a project with fenced concrete pads for outdoor electrical equipment. Each contained a transfer switch, transformer and a switchboard. A couple were in locations that had substantial changes in the grade from one corner to the other. We poured stepped footers, formed foundation walls and then poured the pad to the outside dimensions of the foundation walls. Forming and pouring was a little more involved than laying block, but that's what the plans and specs called for. One handy thing was we fastened short pieces of pipe (vertically) to the inside of the foundation walls and flush with the top of the finished pad before pouring the pad. These were larger than the pipes used for the fence posts and provided sockets we could grout the fence poles into.
For buildings I've also seen poured footers with 12" block from the footer to the bottom of the concrete floor, then stepping back to 8" block for the structure above to provide bearing for the concrete floor.