It's funny you mention the float option for the t&t. I was actually trying to research that aspect but couldn't find much on it, must of what I found said the opposite of what you said, but it sounds like you are speaking from experience on this. I would of thought as the others have mentioned that the float of 3 point would be sufficient. As I said before I am new to this world so any info I can gather now I appreciate. Float would allow an implement follow contour of the ground, correct? What advantage to having the float function. The 1 remote on the Kioti that is standard is detent I believe because you would use it to power the backhoe or like you said a log splitter. Thanks for the input I love learning so I can make the first choice the best choice.
New here, looking at an LS XR 4150 does this pricing seem right
- Thread starter Urakunu
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It's funny you mention the float option for the t&t. I was actually trying to research that aspect but couldn't find much on it, must of what I found said the opposite of what you said, but it sounds like you are speaking from experience on this. I would of thought as the others have mentioned that the float of 3 point would be sufficient. As I said before I am new to this world so any info I can gather now I appreciate. Float would allow an implement follow contour of the ground, correct? What advantage to having the float function. The 1 remote on the Kioti that is standard is detent I believe because you would use it to power the backhoe or like you said a log splitter. Thanks for the input I love learning so I can make the first choice the best choice.
RSR
Platinum Member
I'll second what shooterdon said. I got as LSXR4145HC let fall for $32.8k with the same options he did, but no radio and standard R4 tires. With a cab running about $4k extra, your price seems like a good deal.
I also live in a similarly cold climate, and got the same response when I inquired with two different dealers about a block heater. Mine is kept in a garage that is semi-heated, but can still get below freezing on cold nights. I've never had the slightest problem starting it.
If you have any plans for snow removal/working in the cold, a cab is indispensable.
The speakers that come with it are quite cheap. I saved a few bucks buying my own radio and installing some nicer (but still cheap) speakers at the same time I put in a rear and forward facing camera. It's great to be able to listen to tunes while working.
I will disagree with shooterdon, though, in that I think the LS is every bit as refined as the Kubota, minus the HST+ transmission.
I also live in a similarly cold climate, and got the same response when I inquired with two different dealers about a block heater. Mine is kept in a garage that is semi-heated, but can still get below freezing on cold nights. I've never had the slightest problem starting it.
If you have any plans for snow removal/working in the cold, a cab is indispensable.
The speakers that come with it are quite cheap. I saved a few bucks buying my own radio and installing some nicer (but still cheap) speakers at the same time I put in a rear and forward facing camera. It's great to be able to listen to tunes while working.
I will disagree with shooterdon, though, in that I think the LS is every bit as refined as the Kubota, minus the HST+ transmission.
RSR
Platinum Member
I will add one more thing.
I was also looking at Kioti, and it was pretty much a dead even toss up between it and the LS. The Kioti dealer was new, and pricing aggressively, so he came in even better than the LS dealer. Really, the main reason I went with LS was it would fit in my garage, while the Kioti has slightly too tall.
I don't think you can go wrong with either of those tractors.
I was also looking at Kioti, and it was pretty much a dead even toss up between it and the LS. The Kioti dealer was new, and pricing aggressively, so he came in even better than the LS dealer. Really, the main reason I went with LS was it would fit in my garage, while the Kioti has slightly too tall.
I don't think you can go wrong with either of those tractors.
dbchaplin03
Silver Member
You are exactly right. It helps with uneven ground. Ill give you some examples:
1) Brush mowing- if you buy a 3pt lift style bush hog, they mount with 3 pts like all other implements.. which means they have little flexibility on hills or ditches and its really easy for them to dig in. Some people disconnect the top link which allows the mower to float on just the 2 lower links but others would say that is dangerous. Ive never attempted so i cant say for certain. If you had your top cylinder on a float valve it could float just like it being removed but not be disconnected from the tractor and a quick flick of the lever and you are back to being double action cylinder.
Also, if you are mowing the sides of hills, washouts, pond banks ect.. you can float the side cylinder and it should really follow the contour of the ground.
2) Box blading I can’t think of a time where you would want to float the top link box blading but you could def float the side link if you are doing a lot of box blading on uneven ground to help prevent one side from gouging and the other side floating. If you are new new to tractors then maybe take a 6-7 foot board and hold it parallel to the ground. Now imagine that rigid mounted to where it cant move and walk around your property. That is in essence your box blade, rake, rear blade, mower or anything else to have behind you. If you need it to angle, you have to get off the machine, manually turn the adjuster get back on... repeat, repeat repeat depending on how uneven your ground is and what you are doing. On our property the only level spot is where our septic system is so Im always working on some kind of hill it seems.
I got by for years and years without a T&T but after getting it, with the right valves and cylinders, Id never want a tractor without them.
One more critical point... You absolutely MUST get the right set up. Brian from Fit Rite is one of the best in the business. He has a long lead time because he is a one man shop but he builds the cylinders at the right length. Many people buy something “close enough” from Agri Supply or one of the other companies but their top links are almost Always too short and your implements don’t work right because you dont have the correct range of motion. Most of these are built from 8” cylinders and dont have enough length. For my tractor I built my own simply because he was backed up. I did make the mistake on one of my 35 hp tractors buying an off the shelf ones that was too short. It sat on the shelf in the shop most of the time because it wasnt long enough to make the box blade work properly.
If you are a decent fabricator, most of them arent too terribly difficult to build. But Ill be honest, by the time i bought everything to do it myself i was probably within $200 of buying his kit that would have come with his years of experience and guarantees.
dbchaplin03
Silver Member
Forgot to mention that the easiest times to get the valves is with the new tractor especially for the price they quoted you. I wouldnt invest in the T&T kit until you know how much you are going to use it. From my experience, people with backhoes, especially on big tractors, dont take them off that much. For my tractor the kit was somewhere between $1100-1200.
Id buy your machine, use it, and see if it is really needed before you make the commitment. That goes with a lot of accessories. When you are researching everything seems like its needed and you get in the buying mode. Sometimes you buy things you didnt really need or wont use that often.
On bigger tractors the 3 pt parts start getting very heavy. If you have to disconnect the backhoe, connect several 3 pt parts, you may not want to add the extra step of hooking up 2 additional cylinders that both weigh quite a bit. I dont have the backhoe so the T&T will never come off except when Im hooking up the 3 pt auger or something.
Id buy your machine, use it, and see if it is really needed before you make the commitment. That goes with a lot of accessories. When you are researching everything seems like its needed and you get in the buying mode. Sometimes you buy things you didnt really need or wont use that often.
On bigger tractors the 3 pt parts start getting very heavy. If you have to disconnect the backhoe, connect several 3 pt parts, you may not want to add the extra step of hooking up 2 additional cylinders that both weigh quite a bit. I dont have the backhoe so the T&T will never come off except when Im hooking up the 3 pt auger or something.
Thank you so much for taking the time to lay that all out for me, I saw another company that builds them as well, Michigan Iron and Equipment as there is where the thumb would be coming from should I go with the Kioti. I have noticed several members mention Fit Rite as well, I will have to price it from them and I'll have to see what the dealer says about installing them for me. I can see the T&T being really useful for being able to change the angle as well as hooking up stuff easier to by extending the top link. I believe the one from MIE they have kits where both sides of the 3 point are hydraulic but I assume each one takes a remote to work so 3 remotes needed if you would do all of them. Really appreciate the in-depth discussion!
On the Kioti and the LS the 3 points stay in place, the whole subframe actually comes off with the backhoe, I was concerned about this at first but seeing that the removal of the 3 point is necessary for some other manufacturers I think its a better setup. And you are right, everything I see I think I need because I can envision using it for something even if it would be one time LOL.
