New Holland Boomer 37 in DPF Shutdown Mode

[51allis]

"I would do this because I don't want there to be rich starting situation while waiting for the glow plug to energize and having the key on."

Is that a thing? Wouldn't it just pump back to the tank?

I'm not sure the electric pump is even needed. In the manuals it's part of the after-burner system and not shown on the start circuit diagrams. One guy on the youtube video commented he had to disconnect the pump to keep his tractor running.

I'm not sure either but I would rather err on the side of caution....you know how that goes. The simpler that the tractor can be the less worries etc. because I cannot send to the dealer now for other non ecu repairs, with the emissions gone they would definitely say something etc. As for disconnecting the electric fuel pump, I tried to start my tractor without it connected and it wouldn't run, when I connected it electrically, it ran.

 

[Craigercj]

I'm not sure either but I would rather err on the side of caution....you know how that goes. The simpler that the tractor can be the less worries etc. because I cannot send to the dealer now for other non ecu repairs, with the emissions gone they would definitely say something etc. As for disconnecting the electric fuel pump, I tried to start my tractor without it connected and it wouldn't run, when I connected it electrically, it ran.

I tried that yesterday and it ran fine but maybe there was still enough pressure/prime for the injector pump to pull up the fuel. Probably best to have a lift pump anyways.

 

[Dgillespie03]

Yeah, My dash is mostly dead from the canbus short. I wired in new RPM, oil pressure light, temperature gauge, hour meter. The fuel gauge still works, it doesn't go through the ecu.

The hour meter I did on a 5 pin relay with the oil pressure light controlled by the oil pressure switch and powered by the key. Oil pressure light is normally open pin, hour meter is normally closed pin.

The ECU seems to still be running the glow plugs for me, although the light is dead. I haven't verified with multimeter but it started in the winter so... I need to do a glow plug light.

I need to put in another temperature switch to an alarm and light for overheat condition, since that protection is gone.

Good idea on the fuel return. Someday i want to get rid of the egr, air pump, etc.

Can you explain what RPM and hour meter you used? Also how hard was it to wire in? Having the same issue with a mostly dead dash and not having RPM is driving me crazy.

 

[5030]

Every time I see the word Canbus, I think of weed....

 

[Craigercj]

Can you explain what RPM and hour meter you used? Also how hard was it to wire in? Having the same issue with a mostly dead dash and not having RPM is driving me crazy.

I used this tach:

2-1/16" Classic Diesel Tachometer 4K RPM

2-1/16" Classic Diesel Tachometer 4K RPM with Lifetime Warranty | Custom Build Your Gauge

speedhut.com

Spendy, but quality. Theres probably something cheaper on amazon, but if I remember right I was having a hard time finding lower rpm tachs and all that china stuff has very mixed reviews. It wires into the key circuit for power, a light circuit for backlight, and a wire up to the W terminal on the alternator. It has a button to calibrate the rpm range. I just set it to the high/low in the specs of the tractor and haven't verified with a laser tach yet. Right now the gauge is stuck to the side of the dash in one of these mounts with some command strips.
https://www.amazon.com/GlowShift-Un.../dp/B000UO96ZQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&sr=1-4


I used this hour meter:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E06V7QK?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

I ran a new wire to the dash from the oil pressure switch for an oil pressure warning light, so I used that to trigger a 5 pin relay that runs the oil pressure light and the hour meter. Basically, if no oil pressure, light is on and hour meter off. If oil pressure, light is off hour meter on. I stuck the meter in one of the spare switch spots in the dash.

 

[Craigercj]

The wiring diagram in the post you quoted is accurate for how I rewired everything. I put in a new fusebox and ground bus under the dash to power all the new stuff. Ran a bunch of colored wires in braided sleeving into the engine compartment for everything i needed, plus a couple extra in case.

Attachments

• wiring_diagram.pdf

  902.1 KB · Views: 41

 

[Dgillespie03]

I used this tach:

2-1/16" Classic Diesel Tachometer 4K RPM

2-1/16" Classic Diesel Tachometer 4K RPM with Lifetime Warranty | Custom Build Your Gauge

speedhut.com

Spendy, but quality. Theres probably something cheaper on amazon, but if I remember right I was having a hard time finding lower rpm tachs and all that china stuff has very mixed reviews. It wires into the key circuit for power, a light circuit for backlight, and a wire up to the W terminal on the alternator. It has a button to calibrate the rpm range. I just set it to the high/low in the specs of the tractor and haven't verified with a laser tach yet. Right now the gauge is stuck to the side of the dash in one of these mounts with some command strips.
Amazon.com


I used this hour meter:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E06V7QK?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

I ran a new wire to the dash from the oil pressure switch for an oil pressure warning light, so I used that to trigger a 5 pin relay that runs the oil pressure light and the hour meter. Basically, if no oil pressure, light is on and hour meter off. If oil pressure, light is off hour meter on. I stuck the meter in one of the spare switch spots in the da

I used this tach:

2-1/16" Classic Diesel Tachometer 4K RPM

2-1/16" Classic Diesel Tachometer 4K RPM with Lifetime Warranty | Custom Build Your Gauge

speedhut.com

Spendy, but quality. Theres probably something cheaper on amazon, but if I remember right I was having a hard time finding lower rpm tachs and all that china stuff has very mixed reviews. It wires into the key circuit for power, a light circuit for backlight, and a wire up to the W terminal on the alternator. It has a button to calibrate the rpm range. I just set it to the high/low in the specs of the tractor and haven't verified with a laser tach yet. Right now the gauge is stuck to the side of the dash in one of these mounts with some command strips.
Amazon.com


I used this hour meter:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E06V7QK?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

I ran a new wire to the dash from the oil pressure switch for an oil pressure warning light, so I used that to trigger a 5 pin relay that runs the oil pressure light and the hour meter. Basically, if no oil pressure, light is on and hour meter off. If oil pressure, light is off hour meter on. I stuck the meter in one of the spare switch spots in the dash.

Yes I was reading the same reviews about the cheaper tachs and got skeptical about it. Thank you for all the info this is extremely helpful!