New Holland T1510 front bucket won't lower!

[NHT1510]

Well the curl still wouldn't reach out even with the hoses swapped, so I pulled the joystick to see why the curl valve was binding anyway. Here is what I found. I sure hope the rest of those O-ring pieces didn't end up downstream. I need to rebuild this manifold don't I? There were several smaller pieces that came out too, but this was the biggest piece. It looks like someone made a homemade Joystick curl valve attachment. That must be why it was so loose because when you tightened it, it would bind up. It looks like it ate up the O-rings in the valve body over time. The valve wouldn't seat all the way, so I assume there is something in behind it that isn't allowing the valve to actuate fully. What type of manifold could I replace this one with if I can't find the right pieces to fix this one? Any ideas? To see if it is open center I just blow air in the inlet and see if it comes out the outlet? Thanks for the help.

 

[Leejohn]

Could I temporarily move the hose from port A to Port C to see if the curl would reach out? I could then tell if the issue was valve/manifold related? That is if the curl cylinder moves out. I will wait to see what you think before I do that. It could still be that the QD on Port A is not engaging fully inside. It seems to turn too freely, like there is no pressure on it. That is still a possibility I am sure.

I don't think you can move just a to c without dead heading. You could move a and b to c and d, that would keep you from dead heading.

 

[J_J]

Well the curl still wouldn't reach out even with the hoses swapped, so I pulled the joystick to see why the curl valve was binding anyway. Here is what I found. I sure hope the rest of those O-ring pieces didn't end up downstream. I need to rebuild this manifold don't I? There were several smaller pieces that came out too, but this was the biggest piece. It looks like someone made a homemade Joystick curl valve attachment. That must be why it was so loose because when you tightened it, it would bind up. It looks like it ate up the O-rings in the valve body over time. The valve wouldn't seat all the way, so I assume there is something in behind it that isn't allowing the valve to actuate fully. What type of manifold could I replace this one with if I can't find the right pieces to fix this one? Any ideas? To see if it is open center I just blow air in the inlet and see if it comes out the outlet? Thanks for the help. <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/hydraulics/421875-new-holland-t1510-front-bucket-image-jpg"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/hydraulics/421876-new-holland-t1510-front-bucket-image-jpg"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/hydraulics/421877-new-holland-t1510-front-bucket-image-jpg"/>

You did swap both lift hoses to the curl circuit.

that is why I asked if the spool moved the same in and out of the valve.

They do not make replacement spools, as they are a precision fit.

The o-rings for the spool are there to seal out dirt and water, not pressure.

However they can cause the spool to jam and not function correctly.

 

[NHT1510]

Yes I did as Leejohn described and the curl still wouldn't push out. It should have pushed in and out since it basically was being supplied off of the FEL valve at that time (up/down). Correct? I couldn't get the curl valve to actuate IN however (before I swapped hoses) and felt it was binding so I took the valve out carefully and O-ring material came out. I have put cams in engines so I know to be careful of scoring on the surfaces. I think something is in behind this curl valve stopping me from pushing it in all the way. I ran out of daylight, but I will try again tomorrow. Is it possible to replace those O-rings inside that valve body fairly easily? I could then clean out the valve body of debris if there is anything in there. Thanks guys, with your help I am starting to catch on a bit here. I appreciate it.
There is lots of good information here.

 

[Leejohn]

Two more ?. What end of the valve body did you pull the spool out? #2 is there threads in the end of that spool?

 

[NHT1510]

I pulled it out of the A/B port side. I pulled it out from behind the Joystick housing. Yes there are threads there behind the welded attachment. It looks like some one has made a connector for the Joystick actuator and threaded it into the spool. It looks to be rusted in there now, but with some finesse and WD-40 I can probably get it out. This is the valve that wasn't actuating IN like it should have. It won't seat fully...like there is something in behind it. The C/D port side valve (FEL up/down) works correctly and has good spring tension on it as well as seating correctly.

 

[Leejohn]

I was talking about the other end. Did you pull the cup off and unscrew the centering spring from the spool? If you didn't pull the cup and that might be your trouble right there.

 

[NHT1510]

I just removed the valve from the valve body from behind the joystick. It pulled right out. I see what you mean now. So that spring threads in there on the OPPOSITE end of the spool. Maybe it was never threaded in the right way then. I will look at that in the morning. That would be nice were it that simple.
Yeah, it seemed like the valve was binding like something was stuck behind it. The valve was about a 1/2 inch too far out on the Joystick side. Thanks for the information.

 

[NHT1510]

If worse comes to worse I found a similar LVR valve that will work on this tractor. Tell me what you guys think. The only issue I see here is the New Holland T1510 pushes 6.2 gpm and this valve calls for 14 gpm. How much of a difference will that make? Is there any way I can make up for that? Anyway, here is the link to the valve I am looking a:

Prince LVR1GB5AB7 Loader Valve, Monoblock, Cast Iron, 2 Spool, 4 Ways, 4 Positions, Single Acting Cylinder Spool, Spring Center with Float Detent, Joystick Handle, 3000 psi, 14 gpm, In/Out: #10 SAE, Work #8 SAE: Hydraulic Directional Control Valves: A

I am going to try and fix this one, but if I can't, at least I have a fallback plan that isn't too pricey. It would be worth it to me to have a "moderately" trouble free experience. I stop short of saying trouble free for obvious reasons. This tractor sat for two years in a field with the dust boot and valve exposed to the rain it looks like. I am still working out the bugs. On the bright side with a little oil/filter change, and fresh hydraulic fluid/filter it is at least running well and moving. I am going to change out the hydraulic fluid/filter as soon as I get the hydraulics up just to make sure I got the majority of the water out of it. Where is the hydrostatic filter for the transmission? I need to look at that too. Thanks for helping me with this. I need it.

 

[NHT1510]

If you look on page 59 of this .pdf it shows the specs of the LVR Two Spool Mono-block valve I am looking at.

http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/literature/Valves.pdf

Maybe this will help other people needing one of these replacement valves or parts for it. There are many types of Prince valves listed here.