New Holland T1510 front bucket won't lower!

J_J · Apr 22, 2015

What is the valve you have now?

If you use a lager GPM valve, you will have full flow at about half lever. You will not have as much finesse as a valve that matches your tractor pump flow.

Surplus Center

NHT1510 · Apr 22, 2015

The valve I have now looks exactly like this one, so I guess it has the same spec of 14 gpm. I am not sure about that, but the hose hookup and everything else looks the same. So does the size and outer structure.
You can compare to the picture I posted of my valve body. Is there some way I can get a little more finesse with a restrictor or something if need be? Am I thinking about that the wrong way?

2 SPOOL 14 GPM PRINCE LVR JOYSTICK LOADER VALVE

Thanks for that link by the way, that is roughly $30 cheaper than Amazon.

J_J · Apr 22, 2015

If you are going to replace your valve, I believe I would replace it with one that matches the GPM better like the 10 GPM valve.

They have one valve with out regen if you don't like that function.

If your present valve works fine for you, maybe new spools seals will be all you need.

NHT1510 · Apr 22, 2015

J.J. Using the knowledge I have gained from here and you guys I decided to put everything back like it was when I started. I took the cups off and cleaned them out. They were full of rust and junk so I disassembled them, cleaned them real good, put them back together, and now I have the Joystick/spool action that should be there. The curl cylinder shot out quickly when I hooked it back up and hit the curl spool, but retraction was slow then. I turned my attention to the permanent fitting on Port B And I backed the nut off a bit and air started escaping from the fitting. That led me to believe I must have some water still in it. I disconnected the hoses to the curl cylinder with the tractor off and wouldn't you know it, water (milk) just gushed out...well...like water does. I then bottomed the curl cylinder out, pushing as much water out of the cylinder as I could. Rust came out too by the way. I reattached the curl cylinder hoses, filled up the tractor reservoir and tried it again. I then repeated the process until it reached totally out in a fluid motion. I did it one more time and now the curl is pushing out nicely, but retraction is really slow. I need to get some more fluid and put a couple of 5 gallon buckets under all the hoses that feed the cylinders, start the tractor for a few seconds and purge those lines I guess. I know not to let it run for more than a few seconds for fear of damaging my pump, but the question is...how am I ever going to get all this water out of this tractor. I knew one change wouldn't do it, but it is starting to look like a minimum of three now...hehe. I should have purged all the lines before I changed it the first time, but sometimes I just don't engage my brain like I should. Live, learn, and spend money I guess.

. I have no doubt this tractor is going to get some work done around here, so I am still smiling. Thanks guys, I am slowly making progress here.

Too long; didn't read: I got the valve body working and the spool action, I just wasn't diligent enough on my water purging. ;(

J_J · Apr 22, 2015

You really need to dump your current fluid and do a flush, and then add new fluid.

Then find a way to cover the tractor with a tarp or plastic or shed.

Any water will cause acids to form plus unknown chemicals, which will degrade the hyd system.

Replace all filters and sump screens if you have them.

Did you replace the seals on the spools?

Leejohn · Apr 22, 2015

Sounds like you are just about ready to hit the fields, if the rain ever stops.

NHT1510 · Apr 22, 2015

I haven't replaced the seals on the spools yet, but I plan to. I just wanted to confirm it was working after I cleaned the cups. When I went out to get the tractor out of the field, the dust boot wasn't even covering the spools for some reason. I guess someone was having issues with it and decided to say screw it and left it off. Cleaning those cups really helped the action a lot. Any advice on getting a really good flush on these lines and reservoir? I found a fairly good price for the 134D fluid close to home here ($52.53 for 5 gallons after tax), but I would rather not have to buy 6 5-gallon buckets to get this water completely out. Do you know where the hydrostatic filter is on this tractor per chance? It is the 4wd model. I haven't got a service or owner's manual for it. I would be willing to bet it didn't get its 50 hour or 300 hour service though. I need to catch it up and hope for the best. Appreciate it J.J.

NHT1510 · Apr 22, 2015

Leejohn said:
Sounds like you are just about ready to hit the fields, if the rain ever stops.

Yeah it rained on me a bit today while I was cleaning the cups and I thought "just what I need...more water...hehe". I just covered up the valve body till it slacked off. Thanks for the cup info Leejohn.

NHT1510 · Apr 22, 2015

I have got the spool linkage nice and tight now (actuating nicely), the dust boot back on it with a large wire-tie on it to hopefully keep the water out, then I put a 8 mil tarp over the whole thing. Maybe that will stop it from being a rain guage for a bit. I have to get a complete filter kit, 15 more gallons of 134D, and then figure out how to get this water out before I waste any more fluid. I guess I could disconnect the lines and blow them and the valve body all out with air, leave them hanging in a bucket for half a day, if it doesn't rain, and then pull the plug on the reservoir and let that drain half a day as well. Any helpful hints on the water that will undoubtedly be left suspended inside the reservoir and lines? J.J. you said something about a flush. Do they make a flush for just such situations? Is there something I could add to burn off some of that water that will be in the fresh fluid?

NHT1510 · Apr 22, 2015

Here is a small tutorial on servicing TC series tractors. It is similar to the one I am trying to fix, but there is no filter for the transmission on the front like in these pictures.

New Holland TC-Series Service

This tractor is my mother-in-laws and she requested I rescue it out of the field after my father-in-law died for fear someone would take it. She also mentioned wanting some "things" done around the house when I got it going. Hmmmm...oh well. I have never had a tractor, so I don't mind doing some work for a little work/fun of my own. Nice trade-off. I like to think of it as mine, but I will get corrected on that eventually. Everyone just play along like it is mine...hehe. This tractor may not be hydrostatic now that I look closer at the transmission. It has a gear selector, and I believe the pedal I was thinking was the hydrostatic pedal is actually used to rev the engine. Kind of like an accelerator. I have a Craftsman Lawn Tractor that IS hydrostatic and it is continuously variable with just a sliding lever forward and back. Someone correct me if I am wrong. I don't consider myself stupid, just ignorant.

Life would be tragic if it weren't funny. --Stephen Hawking :laughing:

J_J · Apr 22, 2015

NHT1510 said:
I have got the spool linkage nice and tight now (actuating nicely), the dust boot back on it with a large wire-tie on it to hopefully keep the water out, then I put a 8 mil tarp over the whole thing. Maybe that will stop it from being a rain guage for a bit. I have to get a complete filter kit, 15 more gallons of 134D, and then figure out how to get this water out before I waste any more fluid. I guess I could disconnect the lines and blow them and the valve body all out with air, leave them hanging in a bucket for half a day, if it doesn't rain, and then pull the plug on the reservoir and let that drain half a day as well. Any helpful hints on the water that will undoubtedly be left suspended inside the reservoir and lines? J.J. you said something about a flush. Do they make a flush for just such situations? Is there something I could add to burn off some of that water that will be in the fresh fluid?

Soundguy has a mix he recommends.

If he sees this, he will provide the mix ratio.

NHT1510 · Apr 22, 2015

Alright thanks. I will read on the threads here and do some searches using his name.

NHT1510 · Apr 22, 2015

J.J. I found a thread where you and Soundguy were helping a guy with milky hydraulic fluid. Is this the recipe?

Use this flush mix to help get rid of water.

1 quart atf ( type f or dex/merc 3 ) to 1g diesel, to 1 pint 90-91% rubbing alcohol. I'll put that into a sump as a rinse. if it needs more fluid for some pickup.. I'll add in some cheap utf or more diesel rinse mix.

Question: Do I get my hydraulic fluid up to operating temp first, then add this 1 gallon diesel/1 quart type F ATF/1 pint 90-95% alcohol mix, or should I add it to the reservoir cold and then get it to operating temperature? Will it matter? Is it ok to run it for a few cycles like you would hydraulic fluid, i.e. to flush out all the lines, cylinders, valve body? I have a lot of water in mine, so I am just wondering how long I should run it basically before draining.

2nd question: I saw on that same thread it was mentioned that these tractors sometimes have an issue with air entrapment due to a clogged Suction strainer/filter. How likely is that scenario in this case? Here is that thread if you want to review it, or someone else needs to see it.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/296845-milky-hydraulic-fluid.html

Still doing my homework.

NHT1510 · Apr 23, 2015

Anyone know where I can get a service manual or owner's manual on this T1510 tractor. It seems I have much to learn about the transmission types on these things. I don't know if it is hydrostatic or not, but it seems like it has to be because it uses the 134D standard hydraulic fluid for everything on it except the crankcase. That calls for a 15w-40 from what I can find on it. It must filter the transmission through the same large hydraulic filter (under the right side by the back tire) I changed when I changed the fluid the first time as I can't find where they could have put the filter otherwise. It doesn't have an independent transmission filter that I can see, and YIKES! this means I have water in the transmission too then. Oh boy, Nanna, I hope you appreciate all the homework I am doing. (I actually really enjoy it though...reading is fundamental)

Any T1510 owners wanna give me a clue? I could use a few. More than a few it looks like!

NHT1510 · Apr 23, 2015

This may shorten someone's search for a particular part. Here is a parts list and diagrams for the New Holland T1510:

https://www.messicks.com/NH/59988.aspx

I put it here mainly for reference to the parts diagrams.

NHT1510 · Apr 24, 2015

What other answers can I get here? I want to flush this milky hydraulic fluid out, but I need that formula. Is it the one I found? Someone let me know and I will continue on with the flush. Thanks.