NEW HOLLAND TC35DA TOP AND TILT

[MtnViewRanch]

Well here is what I got. the part number is a HSL 3203, from what I can fine is that it only has a 4" strok. So it is working right. the other numbers on it is ML 06 05 S, which I can not find anything on.

There are not problems with a mechanical blockage or resistance.

So I guess what i need to do to make this work is to either get a longer crank link or shorten the shaft on the tilt pistion.

I guess i will only have a one way tilt, DANG

The unit can be reworked so that you have tilt in both directions, or you can live with the one way tilt or purchase a unit that tilts in both directions. Those are your options as I see them. As I mentioned before, the one way & or not equal amount of tilt is very common.

 

[jinman]

So I guess what i need to do to make this work is to either get a longer crank link or shorten the shaft on the tilt pistion.

I guess i will only have a one way tilt, DANG

I'd vote for shortening the rod. Don't let just any welder do that job. When the rod is shortened, you will have a danger of frying your seals while welding the end because you don't have a lot of heatsink. I'd recommend taking the cylinder to a good welding shop with experienced welders who know how to properly protect the cylinder and seals.

Once you get the rod to the correct length, you can adjust your crank so that you have lots of tilt in one direction or a small tilt in both directions. The truth is, it doesn't take much tilt on a blade to get most jobs done.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

chuckcnm, remember that if your side link is like jinman's, then you will be able to shorten the rod and the top rod that connects to the lift arm. Trust me when I tell you that this can be done so that you can have 2" of tilt to each side. That 2" of travel will get you between 10*-15* tilt in each direction. Ther is almost never a need to have more tilt than that. That is one of the reasons that the OEM manual link is the way that it is. There typically is no good reason to have massive amounts of tilt.

Good luck

 

[chuckcnm]

JJ, I did not put a ruler on it, but I look up the HSL 3203(pn stamp on the side) and that is what the specs said.

Zebrafive, yes I still have 4" of chrome showing when retracted. The data and pic I have found on the net is also telling me that. Seems strange and a waste to me to have that type of setup. would work a lot better to have a full 8" stroke, 4 up and 4 down.

 

[J_J]

This cyl is retracted, but the rod looks to have more rod available, but the rod length is only for distance for mounting. The stroke is 5.75 in , while the total rod is actually about 16 in. Pin to pin is 22.5 in

Surplus Center - 2 X 5.75 X 1.125 DA HYD CYL

Did you are someone else install the cyl?

 

[chuckcnm]

Someone else in stalled it

 

[jinman]

Chuck, as Brian says, you can make your TnT setup work much better by matching the length of your hyd sidelink to your adjustable sidelink. I don't remember exactly what I measured, but I believe my adjustable sidelink was 15" to the center of the top/bottom pins when the jackscrew was adjusted to minimum. As you can see in my attached composite photo, the top ball hitch on the jackscrew it much shorter than the one on the hydraulic cylinder. It will take two cuts and two welds to get your cylinder to the proper length, but if you are going to do it, you might as well do it right. Measure the minimum length of the jackscrew link and then measure the minimum length of the hydraulic link. The difference is what you need to remove from the hydraulic link to make things work perfectly.

 

[chuckcnm]

Thanks Jinman, so I will shorten the jackscrew link and hyd one as far as they will go correct. When I can put my hands on it again I will check it out, thanks again for everyones help.