NEW HOLLAND TC35DA TOP AND TILT

[jinman]

Chuck, I bought a tilt cylinder from my NH dealer and it is in the photo below. This cylinder has a 6" throw. In the photo, the rod is centered for travel. That means there is around 2-1/2" of rod that will still be exposed when the cylinder is fully retracted. As a rough estimate of how much rod should extend, measure the distance between the hydraulic fittings on your cylinder. As you can see with my cylinder, it's about 6" between fittings.

My cylinder was/is much too long. I had an inch cut off of it and rewelded, but I should have had 2" cut off and maybe 1" cut off the ball adapter on top. To level my 3PH at half the cylinder's extension, I have to run my adjustable handcrank side out to only about 1" of thread remaining. I don't like running that close and really need to modify my cylinder some more for a better fit. I think I'd be much happier with it that way.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Chuck, I bought a tilt cylinder from my NH dealer and it is in the photo below. This cylinder has a 6" throw. In the photo, the rod is centered for travel. That means there is around 2-1/2" of rod that will still be exposed when the cylinder is fully retracted. As a rough estimate of how much rod should extend, measure the distance between the hydraulic fittings on your cylinder. As you can see with my cylinder, it's about 6" between fittings.

My cylinder was/is much too long. I had an inch cut off of it and rewelded, but I should have had 2" cut off and maybe 1" cut off the ball adapter on top. To level my 3PH at half the cylinder's extension, I have to run my adjustable handcrank side out to only about 1" of thread remaining. I don't like running that close and really need to modify my cylinder some more for a better fit. I think I'd be much happier with it that way.

Unfortunately this is a very common problem. Manufacturers build these side links with a cylinder that "fits" not ever thinking that it needs to tilt the implement in BOTH directions. Jim in your case it looks-sounds to me that your side link was either intended to be used on a larger tractor or to be fully retracted when the implement was level and you would only have tilt to one side. Shorten that it up like you said and you will be much happier with it.

 

[chuckcnm]

Jinman, this pic you have is very close to what i have in the fully retracted position with about 3.5 to 4" of piston still showing. If i remember correctly my ports are closer together. i am waiting on some pics to be sent to me and i hope a part number.

Looks like I need to do some more investigating to see what I really have.

To lever out the arms i have about a 1/2 of thread left when level, which is no good at all

 

[dynasim]

Could the rod be bent. That isa possible reason a cylinder won't fully retract. Don't ask me how I know.

Chris

 

[J_J]

No one has said whether full pressure was applied, and did the relief ever activate?

As I said before, remove the cyl yoke from the rod end and see if the cyl has full stroke.

If you have full stroke and when connected, not full stroke, then there is a mechanical blockage or resistance.

Did the cyl work normal before, as in full stroke?

 

[chuckcnm]

Thanks JJ, when I can get back out to the tractor I will remove the yoke and see if it will retracts all the way. I did try to retract it and once it reach the point it is at now the tractor would boog down some so I released the lever I am guess the relief activated at this time.

No this is how i bougth it, the guy said it has always work that way so i took he word for it. Now that I am using the 3pt more i realized there is an issue.

I did not check but could/is it possiable the hoses could be reversed

 

[J_J]

The work port hoses would not matter as you provide whatever fluid you want the cyl to have. The lever on the valve has the same distance in extend as retract. The cyl should extend or retract untill the relief pressure is met.

Bent rod or mechanical limitation is my guess. Air in cyl would give a spongy feel, and should purge itself.

If you do have QD's on the Tilt cyl, try re-seating them.

 

[chuckcnm]

Well here is what I got. the part number is a HSL 3203, from what I can fine is that it only has a 4" strok. So it is working right. the other numbers on it is ML 06 05 S, which I can not find anything on.

There are not problems with a mechanical blockage or resistance.

So I guess what i need to do to make this work is to either get a longer crank link or shorten the shaft on the tilt pistion.

I guess i will only have a one way tilt, DANG

 

[Zebrafive]

Well here is what I got. the part number is a HSL 3203, from what I can fine is that it only has a 4" strok. So it is working right. the other numbers on it is ML 06 05 S, which I can not find anything on.

There are not problems with a mechanical blockage or resistance.

So I guess what i need to do to make this work is to either get a longer crank link or shorten the shaft on the tilt pistion.

I guess i will only have a one way tilt, DANG

So you determined your cylinder has a 4" stroke and that you can cycle the 4"s and there is still chrome rod outside the cylinder as in the rod is longer than needed.?

 

[J_J]

There is about 3.5 to 4 in showing and will extend another 3.5 to 4 inches

You said this, so what brought you to this conclusion?

You now say the stroke is only 4 in.