New House Tips please

CTyler · Oct 27, 2003

( Don't let a builder tell you that a 4 ft frost wall is required on your slab. )

I'd think this depends on code requirements and what your building.

slowzuki · Oct 27, 2003

The building codes generally can be overcome by getting an engineer to design it for you.

I have looked at this from a lot of angles and there isn't a good arguement for a frost wall! Here in NB the frost goes down about 3 - 6 ft depending on ground cover. The government builds all of its buildings (unheated included) on slabs with no frost wall (despite the building code) and out of the hundreds, they've only had trouble with one. It was built in a swamp with poor drainage for a radio tower.

A properly tamped and prepared site won't have problems, well, at least not problems a frost wall can solve.

Just think of what it is doing? If it is insulated, as most are, it is doing little to reduce frost depth local to the slab. It is not a wide footprint like a footing so it isn't reducing ground loading, it actually has a high loading! The only good I guess is if you poorly prepped the pad, and didn't use steel reinforcement, it would help prevent corners of the slab from cracking from uneven settlement.

Ken

Pigeon · Oct 27, 2003

( How does the price of PEX and the fittings compare to copper? Is it flexible enough to make corners without elbows? Using the crimpers, what's the failure rate for making a leakproof connection? 
)
PEX piping in my area is typically less expensive than a copper system. The PEX pipe is less expensive, but the fittings are more expensive than copper.
Current WHOLESALE pricing in my area (NE Oklahoma).
1/2 P tube ............. .48/ft
1/2 C tube............... .93/ft
1/2 P 90 w/ sleeves 2.26ea
1/2 C 90 ................. .30ea
Pex can be installed either in a 'home-run' method, or manifolded in several walls, as is typical w/ copper systems.

As to the flexibility, 1/2 Pex comes on a roll approx 2 ft. in diameter. It can be bent smaller than that (probably 10-12 inch d.), as long as it is not kinked. It is hard to kink.

Failure rate with good installation practices is almost zero. If you do have a leak, it can usually be repaired by applying GENTLE heat to the fitting. A hair dryer works well for this.

Trescrows mentioned a tool for ~ $100. There are different systems from various manufacturers. The one I use is Wirsbo. Not because of any particular preference, but it is popular and readily available in my area. Wirsbo tool is WHOLESALE ~$225. It will do 3 sizes. 1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch.

Perhaps the greatest feature of PEX is the ability to use it in freezing climates. It has a chemical 'memory' that allows it to freeze without breaking or leaking. Don't ask me how this works-I'm a plumber, not a chemist. It will swell when frozen, but upon thawing will return to its' original size.

Some time back, we did a little test. (Plumbers can get bored too.) We filled a piece of 1inch pex 12 inches long with water and capped both ends. Put it in the deep freeze overnight. The next day, upon removal, it had frozen to approx 3 inch diameter, with no sign of any leakage. Hit it w/ a sledge hammer while frozen, no leakage or breakage. Upon thawing, it returned to original size and shape. You could not tell it had ever frozen.

Pigeon · Oct 27, 2003

(

How much would that affect the heat transfer?

)

....not sure what you mean.

Rch · Oct 27, 2003

Spook light; Flood lights up on all sides of the house, up high. In the bedroom have a bank of switches to each one. Individual switches for each flood light on the respective side in the other parts of the house, say downstairs. Make this a single switch seperate and above any bank of switches so it doesn't get switched on inadvertently during the day- you may want to consider a pilot light switch.

At night, you hear something, flip on all those lights from the bedroom. Or, turn off any of those lights from the bedroom that were left on. My wife loves it. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Consider a plug for electricity under the dining room table.

GaryM · Oct 27, 2003

Good idea! My new place has a similar system. The outside lights can be switched from 4 locations. Bedroom, Lower level French door, Side door, and three seasons room. But they all work together. I think your system might be better.

And don't forget, a lot of this functionality can be obtained with the X-10 systems.

Junkman · Oct 27, 2003

I did the same thing in my house over 20 years ago and the only thing is that we use this lighting for nighttime lighting. If I turn it off from the bedroom, my wife thinks it is on in the morning if she checks the switches in the kitchen. The lights are on a photo cell and sometimes we come home to a dark driveway, because the switch that appears to be on is actually off.... Hope that this makes sense ........

CTyler · Oct 28, 2003

( (

How much would that affect the heat transfer?

)

....not sure what you mean. )

I was refering to running the PEX inside a conduit or duct. If you do that the you have lost your direct thermal transfer. Now you have to heat the air in the conduit which in turn heats the concrete.

_RaT_ · Oct 28, 2003

This PEX is purely for the hot and cold water plumbing throughout the house. It would be independent of a radiant floor system which often uses PEX piping as well.