New install pressure tank on temporary mobile home -need advice please

[MTGreen]

Make sure the holes are well plugged, there will be water in there.

I made several saw cuts in the bottom of the tank/pit and it is leveled on a bed of gravel. I was assuming that water would get in regardless of what I did and wanted to provide drainage

 

[MTGreen]

Looks great, except is it missing the Cycle Stop Valve. Still plenty of room on the inlet side of that tank to add a CSV1A when you decide you want good strong constant pressure and for the pump and tank to last longer. Just need to cut the poly pipe back about 4".

View attachment 850883

Thanks, I will consider it if I have a problem ongoing. Right now I seem to have pretty steady flow and pressure. I think the static pressure of the 30ish ft vertical drop over the 250 foot run helps with that.

 

[MTGreen]

Never had a need for making multiple 2" holes through 4" of concrete before, so had to purchase a new tool for the project.
This is the cheapest Harbor Freight hammer drill that accepts the SDS Max size bits for $200 -the 2" coring bit added another $140. I was quite pleased with it and can also be used without the rotary drill function as a light duty jackhammer. I would definitely classify this as an "HF tool that doesn't suck"

 

[Valveman]

Thanks, I will consider it if I have a problem ongoing. Right now I seem to have pretty steady flow and pressure. I think the static pressure of the 30ish ft vertical drop over the 250 foot run helps with that.

30' of drop adds 13 PSI to what the pump is doing. That gives you better pressure but not constant pressure. Just turn on a shower or a sprinkler and go watch the pressure switch and gauge. The pump will come on at 40 and run for a minute to fill the tank to 60 before it shuts off. Then it will be off for maybe 2 minutes before the pressure drops to 40 and the pump is started again. It is kind of like watching water boil as the pump running 1 minute and off 2 minutes seems like a long time. But when you figure there are 1440 minutes in a day, a cycle every 3 minutes adds up quickly to make the pump turn on and off 480 times a day. Leave the sprinkler or shower running all day with a Cycle Stop Valve and the pump only cycles once for the entire day. That makes a big difference in how long the pump and tank will last, and gives strong constant pressure as a beneficial side effect.

 

[bdhsfz6]

It sounds like you already made a decision but FWIW, I had the exact same situation when I built my house.

I ran the power & poly water lines from the well to a plastic garden shed which I set on a pallet by the temporary trailer next to the new house foundation.

To save money, I bought the full size pressure tank I planned to use in the house. I wrapped heat tape around it, put it in the shed and filled the vacant space around the tank with fiberglass insulation. It worked fine for two seasons while I completed the house

When I was ready to move into the house, I took the tank from the shed and installed it in the new house. I'm still using the shed next to the garage to hold my garden tools. I even reused the fiberglass insulation in my workshop. Nothing wasted.

 

[Carl_NH]

So here we are almost complete -just needs the last 2 foot of trench filled in. Works great and will transition nicely to the house. The well pit lid will be insulated

If appears you could raise the tank off the floor a few inches with bricks or a concrete pad under the tank - maybe 3" or so without redoing the piping. Also adding a 6-8" length of 1/4" brass to raise the pressure switch would be a good idea in case of water.

From experience - we had the pressure relief valve go after 8 years and sprayed water for a few hours before catching it, and made a mess - I raised the switch after that incident.

 

[MTGreen]

30' of drop adds 13 PSI to what the pump is doing. That gives you better pressure but not constant pressure. Just turn on a shower or a sprinkler and go watch the pressure switch and gauge. The pump will come on at 40 and run for a minute to fill the tank to 60 before it shuts off. Then it will be off for maybe 2 minutes before the pressure drops to 40 and the pump is started again. It is kind of like watching water boil as the pump running 1 minute and off 2 minutes seems like a long time. But when you figure there are 1440 minutes in a day, a cycle every 3 minutes adds up quickly to make the pump turn on and off 480 times a day. Leave the sprinkler or shower running all day with a Cycle Stop Valve and the pump only cycles once for the entire day. That makes a big difference in how long the pump and tank will last, and gives strong constant pressure as a beneficial side effect.

I'm not real clear on how that would work with the pump only cycling once per day when the water is on/off all day for toilets/shower/sink/etc. even with a larger pressure tank?

 

[ponytug]

@MTGreen Nice job!

I like the suggestions from @Carl_NH.
I think that they sound like great "ounce of prevention" suggestions. In my (limited) experience, "if it can go wrong it will go wrong". I would have put foam on the vault roof before covering it with soil, but that's me, so I will be interested to see how the temperature holds in the vault. I would insulate the pipes and pump control switch, as they would freeze before the tank.

I am sure that your pressure control system will be fine and I wouldn't sweat it. We have used similar systems my entire life with no issues.

Just curious: Why the paint stripes on the tires?

All the best,

Peter

 

[MTGreen]

@MTGreen Nice job!

I like the suggestions from @Carl_NH.
I think that they sound like great "ounce of prevention" suggestions. In my (limited) experience, "if it can go wrong it will go wrong". I would have put foam on the vault roof before covering it with soil, but that's me, so I will be interested to see how the temperature holds in the vault. I would insulate the pipes and pump control switch, as they would freeze before the tank.

I am sure that your pressure control system will be fine and I wouldn't sweat it. We have used similar systems my entire life with no issues.

Just curious: Why the paint stripes on the tires?

All the best,

Peter

Thanks!

I don't have much room on top between the tank and ground level -I might only be able to put about 6" of dirt without mounding it.

Insulating the pipes/manifold/switch is a good idea and I've already got the right size insulation.

Trailer was purchased with the marks on the tires and I have no idea what it was for -doesn't really look like paint though -looks more like crusted clay dirt marks

 

[ponytug]

Thanks!

I don't have much room on top between the tank and ground level -I might only be able to put about 6" of dirt without mounding it.

Insulating the pipes/manifold/switch is a good idea and I've already got the right size insulation.

Trailer was purchased with the marks on the tires and I have no idea what it was for -doesn't really look like paint though -looks more like crusted clay dirt marks

Got it!

If the soil thickness is only 6" on top of soil, that cuts both ways. It would be an easy fix later, if the need arises.

Good luck on the build! The photos make the area seem as if your neighbors aren't all that far away.

All the best,

Peter