New Kubota M7040 here!
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WilliamBos
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- MF 1635 12x12 Powershuttle
Nice tractor. You will love swarm cab, and AC. You will get used to the shuttle.
OP
canoetrpr
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5 hours on the clock now.
I was wondering why time few by so much more quicker on this tractor than on my last. Turns out that time IS really moving faster. The good ol L3400 hour meter was hours at 2400 rpm. When doing chores it was operated at lower (15-1800 puttering around, 2k for loader work, idle when I was collecting up brush). The hour meter on this tractor is really an hour meter
. To be honest I prefer hours normalized to PTO rpm than actual hours but at least I didn't have to bring out the special relativity text books from second year of university that I have hung on to to explain this one!
There was no better way to get a hang of this thing than to reorganize the manure pile which needed turning anyway.
First step was to get the forks off and bucket on. I'm pleased to say that it was easy to get the bucket on after having struggled for the first time with the forks. REALLY LOVE the ALO Euro QA since it locks into place without me having to get off the tractor to push pins.
Manure movement, was frustrating for a bit there as I wasn't getting full scoops of dirt (or half scoops!). Stalled the tractor a few times as well. A bit like what it was learning to operate the loader the first time on my L3400. By the end I was developing a technique that had me doing a lot better. Found that for now I am better off concentrating on where I want to enter the pile, then moving the shuttle to neutral, then curling the bucket, then moving the shuttle to reverse - all separate steps. I am too used to moving into pile, curling, lifting and starting to reverse all at the same time with the hydrostat - without missing a beat. Once I broke things down into steps, it was much better going. I imagine another few hours and I will be able to put the steps back together again.
Main lessons for today were:
- Concentrate on getting precisely where you need to when in gear then drop into neutral with shuttle and put the right foot on the brake to prevent the tractor from moving.
- Not a great idea to shut down tractor when picking up brush to put on the forks as the windows fog up. Put it into idle and don't worry abut the fuel. Likely better for the turbo anyway.
- I was not wrong about needing to load the tires for what I am doing. I realize it might not be right for everyone but I found that with the bucket full of manure, the rear end was light. Cast iron wheels alone are not enough. I would have had no problem with 3 PT ballast but often it is convenient for me to not have it.
- If I feel the tractor should be moving but it is not, DON'T push on the throttle further. Chances are the rear tires are spinning and those big ag tires leave a MEAN pair of ruts. Put it into neutral and figure out what you need to do to get out of where you are. I my case I found I had forgotten to engage the FWD once or twice (I disengage it around the driveway has I have to drive on some lawn).
I really like the fact that it is so easy to move between FWD/RWD - can even do it while the tractor is moving slowly. Was a pain on the L3400.
I was wondering why time few by so much more quicker on this tractor than on my last. Turns out that time IS really moving faster. The good ol L3400 hour meter was hours at 2400 rpm. When doing chores it was operated at lower (15-1800 puttering around, 2k for loader work, idle when I was collecting up brush). The hour meter on this tractor is really an hour meter
. To be honest I prefer hours normalized to PTO rpm than actual hours but at least I didn't have to bring out the special relativity text books from second year of university that I have hung on to to explain this one!There was no better way to get a hang of this thing than to reorganize the manure pile which needed turning anyway.
First step was to get the forks off and bucket on. I'm pleased to say that it was easy to get the bucket on after having struggled for the first time with the forks. REALLY LOVE the ALO Euro QA since it locks into place without me having to get off the tractor to push pins.
Manure movement, was frustrating for a bit there as I wasn't getting full scoops of dirt (or half scoops!). Stalled the tractor a few times as well. A bit like what it was learning to operate the loader the first time on my L3400. By the end I was developing a technique that had me doing a lot better. Found that for now I am better off concentrating on where I want to enter the pile, then moving the shuttle to neutral, then curling the bucket, then moving the shuttle to reverse - all separate steps. I am too used to moving into pile, curling, lifting and starting to reverse all at the same time with the hydrostat - without missing a beat. Once I broke things down into steps, it was much better going. I imagine another few hours and I will be able to put the steps back together again.
Main lessons for today were:
- Concentrate on getting precisely where you need to when in gear then drop into neutral with shuttle and put the right foot on the brake to prevent the tractor from moving.
- Not a great idea to shut down tractor when picking up brush to put on the forks as the windows fog up. Put it into idle and don't worry abut the fuel. Likely better for the turbo anyway.
- I was not wrong about needing to load the tires for what I am doing. I realize it might not be right for everyone but I found that with the bucket full of manure, the rear end was light. Cast iron wheels alone are not enough. I would have had no problem with 3 PT ballast but often it is convenient for me to not have it.
- If I feel the tractor should be moving but it is not, DON'T push on the throttle further. Chances are the rear tires are spinning and those big ag tires leave a MEAN pair of ruts. Put it into neutral and figure out what you need to do to get out of where you are. I my case I found I had forgotten to engage the FWD once or twice (I disengage it around the driveway has I have to drive on some lawn).
I really like the fact that it is so easy to move between FWD/RWD - can even do it while the tractor is moving slowly. Was a pain on the L3400.
5030
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The M9 and the 105 both have PTO engagement levers and I prefer that as well. I've never been fond of electric over mechanical linkages.
It's easy enough to wire up a tattletale light.
The nice thing about the hydraulic shuttle is it has a proportioning valve built in that incrementally engages the clutch pack according to sensed load. I'm fine with it and I came from a HST tractor into the M9 and then the 105. A little getting used to, thats it.
With any turbocharged diesel it's always better to idle it for a bit after working it. It allows the turbocharger's hot side bearing to cool down and reduces coking of the bearing, the main reason turbochargers fail.
I tend to idle mine all the time when in the field unless I'm working it.
OP
canoetrpr
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I'm quite happy with the PTO engagement lever as well. Just thought it had the electrical switch for some reason. Confusing it with the L5740 I think.
Very interesting about the proportioning valve. Thanks for sharing that.
5030
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Traded at 300 hours..........:confused2:
Mine have about 3000 hours.
I actually believe they run better once they get past the first thousand hours anyway.
I have a bit of overhead noise when cold, but once the engine(s) warm up, they are both quiet as mouses. Actually, too quiet. I think this winter, I'll take the mufflers off and run straight pipes. Nothing beats the turbo whistle.
I know the little hairdryers make plenty of boost. I can actually see the hoses from the air to air intercooler to the intake mainfold expand if I throttle the engine up, with the hood up.....
Just remember to 'snap in' your PTO lever when engaging it. Don't 'baby' it into engagement. The PTO has a clutch pack too, so there is no shock loading.
Mine have about 3000 hours.
I actually believe they run better once they get past the first thousand hours anyway.
I have a bit of overhead noise when cold, but once the engine(s) warm up, they are both quiet as mouses. Actually, too quiet. I think this winter, I'll take the mufflers off and run straight pipes. Nothing beats the turbo whistle.
I know the little hairdryers make plenty of boost. I can actually see the hoses from the air to air intercooler to the intake mainfold expand if I throttle the engine up, with the hood up.....
Just remember to 'snap in' your PTO lever when engaging it. Don't 'baby' it into engagement. The PTO has a clutch pack too, so there is no shock loading.
flusher
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Congrats. A real nice machine. Have fun:thumbsup:.
5030
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Almost forgot....
Both the M and the 105 have the tach/hourmeter mechanically driven from the engine crankshaft via cable whereas, I bleieve the 5030 was electrical, so my hourmeter relates to engine hours at rated rpm which is, I believe, 2300 rpm.@ 540 PTO speed. It's the same for the M9 and the 105. Same engine actually, just a bit larger bore on the 105. I have the 1000 rpm shaft (for the M9) but I've never switched it. It's a PITA anyway.
Both the M and the 105 have the tach/hourmeter mechanically driven from the engine crankshaft via cable whereas, I bleieve the 5030 was electrical, so my hourmeter relates to engine hours at rated rpm which is, I believe, 2300 rpm.@ 540 PTO speed. It's the same for the M9 and the 105. Same engine actually, just a bit larger bore on the 105. I have the 1000 rpm shaft (for the M9) but I've never switched it. It's a PITA anyway.
OP
canoetrpr
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Appreciate that advice as well as I would have been prone to babying it.
5030
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Don't do that, you'll glaze the plates and render the PTO inoperative. Snap it in and do it at an idle and then raise the rpm with the throttle to what you want.
