New L3560HSTC tractor and CAB

MickeyDBC · Aug 4, 2018

That is a good looking tractor. Go get it dirty. Enjoy!

majorwager · Aug 4, 2018

At a list price of over $40K, not accounting for tax which is not applicable in every state, one would hope that the OP has obtained a truly nice machine. That cost however, does exceed the expenditure for most passenger vehicles.

foggy1111 · Aug 4, 2018

Gator6x4 said:
I think he is saying he paid that amount and his old tractor that he traded in.

Yep, I traded an O.S. JD 3320 and cx loader (2006) and all was in very good shape. Only 600 hrs on the clock and had a few nice features. Easy re-sale for the dealer IMO and it seemed like a fair deal for both of us.

Odd thing.....that 2006 JD still has the original battery in it and it performs like new......and it attests to the fact that Battery Tender Jr's do work. I'd put it on in the fall and take it off in the spring.

. Also Fluid Film on the posts.....and never any corrosion issues and never failed to start.

I put about a dozen Batter Tender Jr's on all my stuff each fall (I got boats and cars and golf carts and such) and keep Fluid Film on all the terminals.......and I have like Zero issues with batteries these days. Unreal how well those two products work! No investment in those products.....they just work. Get you some!

foggy1111 · Aug 5, 2018

Fallon said:
Add the hydraulic toplink sooner than later. They are that handy & the valves Kubota uses usually suck that bad. I and many others have been fighting valves that leak like sieves & let anything connected to them extend or retract in under an hour at times. A 5 year warranty gives you a decent window to get it fixed, but it might take your dealer a pile of valves to find one that doesnt suck.

I did buy a Hydraulic Top Link from Agri Supply. It does not have the check valve....as I wanted to use it with my disk.....and use a float valve with it. Well......it worked ok with my disk on my "old" JD tractor and the disk. But, when I put this on the Kubota that top link does seem to work to a new position after a short time. I thought the check valve type cylinders would make an issue with my disk....as I WANT the float feature at times. But now I wonder. I think I need to read your thread. Can you steer me in the right direction? I do like the hydraulic top link.....I just want it to work properly. Thanks for the heads-up!

Fallon · Aug 5, 2018

foggy1111 said:
I did buy a Hydraulic Top Link from Agri Supply. It does not have the check valve....as I wanted to use it with my disk.....and use a float valve with it. Well......it worked ok with my disk on my "old" JD tractor and the disk. But, when I put this on the Kubota that top link does seem to work to a new position after a short time. I thought the check valve type cylinders would make an issue with my disk....as I WANT the float feature at times. But now I wonder. I think I need to read your thread. Can you steer me in the right direction? I do like the hydraulic top link.....I just want it to work properly. Thanks for the heads-up!

Thread on what? Getting GrandL rear remotes to not suck? Still looking for that myself... My dealer replaced 2 of the 3 valves. The toplink valve doesn't suck bad now. The sidelink valve got replaced a 2nd time & still sucks. I love float as well, especially on the toplink, so the check valve option isn't appealing.

My machine is still under warranty for a couple years, so I'm likely to take it back for another try or two on getting a valve that doesn't suck. Its usable but very annoying now. My dealer hasn't gotten an acceptable leakdown rates from Kubota despite trying, but agrees 3+" in under an hour is excessive.

foggy1111 · Aug 5, 2018

Jchonline said:
I drove a L3560, similar LS and TYM. For me the L3560 was just a better tractor. HST and loader controls were much smoother. More expensive, but better IMO. If they made the L3560 or L4060 in a turbocharged model, I would seriously consider it.

Why do you want a turbo? Altitude?

Fallon · Aug 5, 2018

foggy1111 said:
Why do you want a turbo? Altitude?

Not who you were asking. But for me, ya. I live in Colorado at around 7,000'. The lack of air has a noticeable effect on power (man or machine). I wish my L4060 had a turbo (or I had the budget for a L6060).

foggy1111 · Aug 6, 2018

^ I am at about 1500 feet above sea level here. With loaded tires.....this machine seems to have plenty of power to pull or push what needs pulling and pushing. The loader and rear lift arms seem to have super lifting capacity too for my purposes. I suppose I could aways wish for a bit more PTO HP - nearly regardless of the tractor I own - but the 28 PTO HP should do most of what I plan to use this tractor for. Sometimes I just will have to go at a somewhat slower speed I suppose.....but so far it seems to be adequately powered. ....tho I suppose if I were 5000 feet more elevation it could want for more power? Not much experience in high altitude tractor performance.

foggy1111 · Aug 24, 2018

Got about 20 hours on the clock now. Been pretty happy with the performance and size of this tractor. Much better pulling capability than my old JD 3320 due to the extra weight and slight power improvement. But the biggest thing for me is the stability in this tractor is living up to my hopes. The extra few inches of width make this so much more stable feeling when operating on rough terrain and hillsides. The somewhat larger tires also can make a difference....and the fluid-filled rears are quite heavy. Have not had the pucker factor....even with the cab.

The loader feels a bit more "jerky" as compared to my Deere.....but it's partly just becoming familiar with the hydraulic operation. I may put some flow restrictors in the loader if I feel this way after more time. The loader seems to have better capacity than my old 300CX....which was quite powerful and "adequate". The 3 point seems to handle any load I may put back there.

Love the cab and AC. I appreciate how clean the air is and how comfortable it is to operate in high heat and humidity recently. **** deer flies are finally a non-event.

. I gotta be careful to not bump the electric PTO switch with my elbow or the armrest on this tractor. Kinda annoying that it is so close to the armrest that you cannot avoid it at times. I've had to backtrack with my cutter a few times.

I just welded some expanded metal to the existing Kubota Grill Guard. This will likely save me a few dollars (or more) of damage with my loader or grapple in the long run. It was a fairly simple DIY project.....but it would be nice if Kubota offered such an upgrade. Operating around a timber property can be hard on stuff. I like to add protection to vulnerable areas before the brush gets me.

I replaced the rear stabilizer pins with detent ball SS pins I found on-line for a few dollars at McMaster Carr. They have the proper metric sized pins. Fit and operate perfectly....similar to my old JD that I was accustomed to. SO much faster to alter the 3 point width and I can do it with my gloves on....instead of fumbling with a hairpin where you cannot see the hole. I have allot of 3 point implements, and make allot of implement changes at times......so, this is the kinda stuff you'd think they could avoid with a little use of the product in the field?? I also have PAT"S QA on my drag links and a hydraulic top link.....as I have lots of implements from various times.....and a quick hitch is not for me. <---this is likely different for many other users. (some of my 3 point implements date back to the 40's and 50's....grin).

I put a plastic tube and "plug" into the 5" (?) tube in the loader frame. It provides a good tool box or a place to keep a short log chain. Will try to post a pic. below. I saw this on another web article.....and the mod is cheap and easy.

Anyway....pretty happy with my tractor and small upgrades so far.......just needs typical tweaks to make it user friendly.

. (pics below).