New L5240 HST and lovely wife

   / New L5240 HST and lovely wife #11  
That said, I do not see anything at all unsafe about pulling even the heaviest loads from the lower 3PTH arms. After all, they are attached to the tractor beneath the axle. Even if they are fully raised, if the front end of the tractor comes up the arms go down and will never be high enough for the tractor to flip over.

I really don't like to contradict anyone, but you're mistaken. Fortunately, if doesn't happen really often, but it does and has happened. If you pull while attached above the rear axle, whether top link or lower links, the tractor can go over backwards.
 
   / New L5240 HST and lovely wife #12  
The big problem with the 3pt is without down pressure, they will lift, maintaining a big moment or couple (the distance above the tires contact patch vertically).

The drawbar normally extends rearward enough that as the front end lifts, the distance to the contact patch gets smaller the higher the front end goes as the drawbar gets closer to the ground so it is much much harder for the tractor to go completely over.

Is is still possible via momentum that even if the drawbar hits the ground before the tip over point that there is enough momentum to flip. Very unlikely though.
Ken

Bird said:
I really don't like to contradict anyone, but you're mistaken. Fortunately, if doesn't happen really often, but it does and has happened. If you pull while attached above the rear axle, whether top link or lower links, the tractor can go over backwards.
 
   / New L5240 HST and lovely wife #14  
I knew I would probably get slammed for my comments about pulling from the 3PTH arms. I will say it again, they CAN SAFELY be used for more than pulling a Boxblade, Plow or Rotary Cutter. I said before I believe that anything is possible so my advice to anyone interested is to do what you are comfortable with. If you think it may be unsafe, don't do it. If you choose to pull from the 3PTH arms be aware that as the arms are raised it will increase the leverage necessary to lift the front of the tractor. This can cause the front wheels to come up off of the ground which may or may not be a problem. On the other hand, it also transfers weight to the rear wheels for increased traction under slippery conditions. That is a major advantage that once understood can be of great value when using a tractor for what it is designed to do, pull things. My advice is always go slow enough so you are fully in command of the tractor and have complete control of it's movements. Hilly terrain is more dangerous than level ground. Be aware of everything around you at all times. As you learn the capabilities of your tractor you will get more out of it and you will be a better, safer operator as an added bonus. Good luck and be safe.
 
   / New L5240 HST and lovely wife #15  
I agree with you now, Toolguy. You can certainly pull with the lower links of the 3-point, but if you raise them, they become very dangerous. I never forgot our little John Deere rearing up and nearly going over backwards with my dad when I was just a kid and that tractor didn't even have a 3-point hitch. Fortunately, he hit the clutch quickly enough that the front end fell back down.

And while I didn't see it, a neighbor told me about towing his homemade drag in the pasture to spread the cow manure a bit. He said he was pulling it with a chain attached to a drawbar in the 3-point hitch and he thought it would pull a little easier if you raised the 3-point a bit. He had an old Farmall gas powered tractor and said when it reared up, he fell off behind it and the only reason it didn't come on over onto him was that the engine died and the front end fell back down.
 
   / New L5240 HST and lovely wife #16  
Since you are new to dragging and towing another basic safety rule is to never put a hitch ball on the 3pt hitch cross bar with out something to prevent it from rolling like Tool guy has done or there are slip on brackets that secure the cross bar to the lift arms.
 
   / New L5240 HST and lovely wife #18  
I grew up in the log woods & have done quite a bit of logging right around home with a regular farm type tractor. Here's how I rig up for it: Get a horizontal draw bar to go between 3pt hitch ends. If you hook directly to this drawbar & your log is very heavy, you will bend the bar. SO, cut a piece of HEAVY iron pie to just fit over the drawbar. This will not only serve for strength, but also as a roller when used as I describe next. Next, raise drawbar to maxumum height, now take a piece of chain & attach it with a clevis to the drawbar that runs underneath the back of tractor. Hang chain over drawbar with pipe so that it hangs over just a few inches. Get a pair if logging grabs (tongs), fasten them to the free end of the chain over drawbar (pipe) with a clevis. Pipe on drawbar should have some kind of collar welded around each end to keep your cable or chain from sliding off the end when you turn sharply. Back up to big end of log, drop your 3 pt. down, giving slack to chain with grabs, hook grabs in end of log, raise 3 pt up. This should pick up the end of the log. Now go with it. If you are afraid of maybe turning over if you hang something, just always keep your hand on the hitch control & should you hang anything, just drop the hitch which drops the log to the ground. Instead of a chain & grabs, you can also take a logging "Choker", fasten a choker eye to the under belly drawbar with a short piece of chain, hook the choker to the eye, run over the drawbar pipe & do the same as you would if using grabs. The log will pull much easier with a lot less strain on your tractor & equipment if the end of the log is clear of the ground. It is almost impossible to pull a very large log with the end sticking in the ground. If you have a fel on it will hold down the front end ( Which I have never reared up a front end with no weight on the front unless pulling hard up steep ground). Don't worry about pulling with the 3 point hitch. That's what it's for. Just hook a sub-soiler or 2 bottom breaking plow to one. It will pull it much harder than any log ever will if you get the end of the log clear of the ground, you'll find the log usually pulls very eaily. Actually, when done as described above, you are only lifting with the drawbar pipe combo. Actual pulling is applied to the underneath bar. A WORD OF CAUTION!!!!! IF USING GRABS, ALWAYS TAKE THEM OFF OR HANG THEM UP ON REAR OF TRACTOR WHEN NOT HOOKED TO A LOG. IF YOU DO NOT, SOONER OR LATER THEY WILL GET INTO REAR TIRE & RUIN IT EVERY TIME. Learned that long ago the hard way.
This has worked for me for years if done properly.
HAVE FUN.
 
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   / New L5240 HST and lovely wife #19  
HST:

The Method I described in earlier reply (18) has always worked fine for me, But then I am a "Cobbler" of sorts. You might want to try my method if you are a "Cobbler" too, but then if you are not, you might want to check out the attachment on this site http://www.norwoodindustries.com/product.aspx?prodid=1044&cid=1009 . I have never seen a "Log Hog" up close & I'm not sure as to how it picks the log up but it looks as though it might work. I would do some inquiring before I bought one. It is available in 3 styles, Choker chain version & 2 sizes of grapple versions. It is also available from Northern Tool Company catalog which you can access on line & probably other sites as well. Maybe you could get some references from the company & check them out for satisfaction.
Again: Good Luck & be careful. Logging can hurt you.
 
   / New L5240 HST and lovely wife #20  
I just skimmed these posts quickly so if someone has said this forgive me...

Do not skid logs with cable/wirerope Always use chain.

If the cable snaps it flies like a bullwhip. Cable Kills...

Because of the weight of it chain breaks and falls to the ground.

Be safe...

Regards,
Chris
 

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