New member tractor advice

   / New member tractor advice #1  

RHanna

New member
Joined
Aug 28, 2023
Messages
16
Tractor
None
Just joined the forum.

Quick summary of my situation.
Dad just passed about 1 month ago.
He owned about 60-80 acres of fields. I know the land like the back of my hand just riding around on 4 wheelers and hunting. I know most of the fields are pretty "clean" (doesn't have a huge stump or random fence)
Some of it in CRP.
He owned a John Deere over 20 years ago, which I was able to drive and use a little bit. I'm not super mechanically inclined but would expect to be able to do most of the maintenance just not something like a full engine rebuild.

I would like to be able to brush hog all the fields and get them back to the way they used to look. Currently a couple of the fields have a lot of saplings while most haven't been cut in maybe 2 years.
I'm thinking about purchasing a tractor and brush hog to do these items. I don't expect to ever plant the fields or cut hay. My main job with the tractor will be cutting the fields but the more I look at the ones with the FEL I think I could need that attachment at some point. Cab would be nice but I wouldn't want to ignore a good deal.

I don't really want to drop a ton of money given the low amount of work required but it seems like I would need 50hp but I'm not sure. Seems like new could get pricey but I don't know if a 30 year old tractor would be reliable enough. Not really brand loyal, I know John Deere is a good brand but they seem to think a lot of their tractors.

Any advice welcome.
 
   / New member tractor advice #2  
A 30 year old tractor is only as reliable as the maintenance you put into it. I sold my Ford 1900 which was a 1980 and it was in good shape for the next guy who came to cut fields with it too. (no loader)
 
   / New member tractor advice #3  
Always consider getting more horsepower than you think you need. I've never ran across anyone who did, and regretted it.

Determine if you really "need" a tractor. Think about how much work you'll be doing with it, how many hours a year you see yourself operating it, as well as the type work to be done. It could be that you may hire someone to do what you want, or even rent a tractor/skid steer to do what you need without the maintenance and expense of buying a tractor.

I'm a new tractor type of guy myself. I don't want someone else's headaches. Low hours don't mean too much on the used tractor market. I've seen some horrible low hour tractors. In fact, if someone has a tractor they OUGHT to use it and work it as intended. Too many problems come up from not using a tractor much, and letting it sit unused for long periods.

I'm a cab guy too. ;) I have seen that I really rely on my cabs to keep nasty stuff off of me when operating, as well as the air conditioning. Yellow jackets make me grin when they come at me.

You don't really pay for a cab because the cab makes the tractor worth more money when you go to sell it, or trade it in. It's a wash.

Lots of tractor brands out there. Some have horrible parts availability. Some are more expensive than they are worth.

Put in some time on the tractor dealer lots. Ask how long the wait in the service and parts dept. is at that dealer. Do your homework. You'll be glad you did.
 
   / New member tractor advice #4  
Still lot of 2wd tractors for sale horse power your seeking.
Auctions and word of the mouth good place to start.
 
   / New member tractor advice #5  
I would like to be able to brush hog all the fields (60 - 80 acres) and get them back to the way they used to look. Currently a couple of the fields have a lot of saplings while most haven't been cut in maybe 2 years.
I don't expect to ever plant the fields or cut hay. My main job with the tractor will be cutting the fields but the more I look at the ones with the FEL I think I could need that attachment at some point. Cab would be nice but I wouldn't want to ignore a good deal.

I don't really want to drop a ton of money given the low amount of work required but it seems like I would need 50hp but I'm not sure.

T-B-N ARCHIVE:

 
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   / New member tractor advice #6  
If there's a local landowener,farmer or retired farmer that will help you choose that's your best resource. Otherwise you sould find a dealer you trust. As you can see in my profile I'm an old iron fan. All my old tractors are in lite use by me and family and seldom need anything other than oil changes and tune ups. Cabs and air are for people that have to spend time in the seat in all kinds of weather. I would invest in reliability rather than amenities. Keeping air-conditioning operational is difficult at best and often expensive so keep that in mind when buying a cab. If you lived local I would help you choose a used tractor but there are no sure-fire secrets to be had on the web.
 
   / New member tractor advice #7  
I would never buy a tractor without a front end loader. A cab also goes a long way in operator comfort.
Happy shopping!
 
   / New member tractor advice #8  
I don't really want to drop a ton of money given the low amount of work required but it seems like I would need 50hp but I'm not sure.


A 50-horseower tractor will satisfactorily operate a 72" Rotary Cutter.

A 72" Rotary Cutter mowing at 4 mph over smooth fields will cut 2-1/2 acres per hour.

60 acres / 2.5 acres per hour = 24 hours of tractor time.

80 acres / 2.5 acres per hour = 32 hours of tractor time.



I suggest you consider a previously owned 100-horsepower open station tractor operating a previously owned 144" wide, twin spindle Rotary Cutter.

You will discover where ground dwelling bees live on your land.


 
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   / New member tractor advice #9  
Based on your list, a MF 265 or similar will do what you listed, for around $6-10k. Moving more modern, and more expensive, something like JD 5205 would probably be between $12-20k. The other route, something like a TYM 574, brand new, with loader is like $33k. Set aside about $1600 for a 6-7 ft bushhog;

For 40-80 acres, you might want to explore a 9-10 ft bush hog, and that would probably push you towards around a 70 hp machine. I'm assuming we are talking about at Most mowing every two months, during growing season, maybe once between frost and spring; so probably around 4 times per year; a 6 ft mower, even at 5 mph will take a good long while. A 8-10 ft bush hog used is going to be $3500+; and new. probably more like $8500+.

In a perfect world; 6 ft cutter; 5 mph; is 3.6 acres/hour; a 9 ft mower is 5.5 acres/hour at 5 mph. You could maybe get it all cut in a weekend.

Edit: 80 acres, depending on condition, might be worth renting out to a farmer, if the terrain, soils, local economics make sense; might bring in enough to pay property taxes, keep it ag exempt, and put a Little in your pocket.
 
   / New member tractor advice #11  
I hp per acre is a pretty good rule of thumb. I’d be looking in the 60-80 hp range. I’d also be looking at pre-tier 4 used models. Unless you are south of the Mason Dixon line, I’d skip the cab.

Open field mowing under a big canopy, is very comfortable for me, even under the hot summer sun. I am up north, near the Canadian border. The motion of the tractor always makes a nice breeze and the canopy keeps me in the shade.

Something like 3020 John Deere would be about right, as would a Ford 5000. Those would be 2wd and without loaders. They were both good dependable tractors and are easy to find parts for. There are still lots of them around so it should be easy to find one in good shape for a decent price.

If you think that you need a 4 wd with a loader, your going to have to spend a lot more money (probably at least 2x). If mowing is your primary task then I see no need for 4wd.
 
   / New member tractor advice #12  
And be realistic about your travel speed. 5 mph might seem like you’re passing along but in a rough field, it will beat the crap out of you and your equipment. I have decently smooth hayfields, and I am most comfortable at 4 mph and that’s on a 10,000 pound hundred horsepower tractor.
 
   / New member tractor advice #13  
I maintained 25 acres of fields for a decade using an early 70's Ford 2000 with a 5' Woods rotary cutter that was bought used. The tractor was cheap, easy to maintain, and purred right along puling the 5' cutter. Just set your height, pick a gear, and mow. It's smaller size was also an asset for trail maintenance in the adjoining woods. Since I was primarily just keeping fields from turning into woods, I could work around my schedule and pick the days and weather I wanted to mow. The little open station tractor gave me plenty of opportunity to get to know every inch of the property.

From that first tractor I bumped up to a 2WD, 53 hp, gear-driven, John Deere 5210 utility tractor with a removeable loader. I ran that tractor for another decade doing the same things with a 6' mower. The Deere was much more robust and made things better. Plus, a loader really is a game changing attachment. And I think a lightly used 5000 series Deere with around 55 hp and a loader might be just the ticket for you too. There still appears to be a decent selection of pre-Tier 4 machines available on the market.
 
   / New member tractor advice #14  
There still appears to be a decent selection of pre-Tier 4 machines available on the market.


Stricter Tier IV off-road diesel engine emission reduction standards phased in dealer tractor inventory during 2009 - 2012, impacting tractor prices.

Tier IV emission standards require tractor manufacturers to add or revise pollution reduction technology on new tractors generating over 19 kW power = 25.4794 horsepower.

DPF is used by the majority of tractor manufactures for emissions control on OVER 24.4794 horsepower tractors.

Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) captures exhaust particulates (soot) in a ceramic matrix. When tractor engine runs sufficiently hot, accumulated particulates burn off periodically without operator intervention. If engine is not run continuously hot long enough to burn off particulates, diesel soot accumulates in the matrix. Once heavy soot accumulates in DPF the tractor forces soot clearance with the tractor parked and throttle open to about 2,200 rpm for about sixteen minutes, which makes the DPF REALLY HOT to burn off all accumulated soot. Burning off accumulated soot, either during operation or parked is called REGENERATION.

The pollutants emitted by a Tier IV technology tractor are about 1% of the pollutants emitted by a pre-Tier IV tractor.
 
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   / New member tractor advice #15  
I don't really want to drop a ton of money given the low amount of work required but it seems like I would need 50hp but I'm not sure.


A 50-horseower tractor will satisfactorily operate a 72" Rotary Cutter.

A 72" Rotary Cutter mowing at 4 mph over smooth fields will cut 2-1/2 acres per hour.

60 acres / 2.5 acres per hour = 24 hours of tractor time.

80 acres / 2.5 acres per hour = 32 hours of tractor time.



I suggest you consider a previously owned 100-horsepower open station tractor operating a previously owned 144" wide, twin spindle Rotary Cutter.

You will discover where ground dwelling bees live on your land.


I totally agree. HP to spare is a very good thing. I pull a 10 foot woods bush hog wire a 79 1080 Massey and it doesn’t know it’s back there. 7500 dollar tractor 4000 bush hog.
 
   / New member tractor advice
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Lots of good info, appreciate the help. It's just hard to zero in on a tractor when there are 30-40 years worth and several brands. It isn't like car shopping where the possible options aren't as plentiful.

It might be a good idea for me to hire someone with a skid steer mulcher for the 2 fields that are bad. It's about 6-7 acres so not a huge part of the total. Those 2 fields have always been difficult to get to because of the creek washing out culverts all the time. Dad was planning on dropping riprap and crossing that way.

Cab would be nice more for the hornets/bees/yellow jackets. Of course A/C would be nice and keeping the dust out would be nice. The only concern would be how reliable is the A/C. If that went out it would be worse than not having a cab to begin with.

I don't think I would want to go with a bat wing or huge bush hog. Maybe something like 8-10 ft.
I think 2wd is sufficient.

I do have a couple of cousins and their dad that are farmers in the same county. I'm not ready to pull the trigger yet. It's just my nature to research the crap out of everything before purchasing. I would like to have them look over any possible purchase. I know they know a ton but I don't really want to bother them right now. I'm sure they are really busy.
 
   / New member tractor advice
  • Thread Starter
#17  
There still appears to be a decent selection of pre-Tier 4 machines available on the market.


Stricter Tier IV off-road diesel engine emission reduction standards phased in dealer tractor inventory during 2009 - 2012, impacting tractor prices. The pollutants emitted by a Tier IV technology tractor are about 1% of the pollutants emitted by a pre-Tier IV tractor.

Tier IV emission standards require tractor manufacturers to add or revise pollution reduction technology on new tractors generating over 19 kW power = 25.4794 horsepower.

DPF is used by the majority of tractor manufactures for emissions control on OVER 24.4794 horsepower tractors.

Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) captures exhaust particulates (soot) in a ceramic matrix. When tractor engine runs sufficiently hot, accumulated particulates burn off periodically without operator intervention. If engine is not run continuously hot long enough to burn off particulates, diesel soot accumulates in the matrix. Once heavy soot accumulates in DPF the tractor forces soot clearance with the tractor parked and throttle open to about 2,200 rpm for about sixteen minutes, which makes the DPF REALLY HOT to burn off all accumulated soot. Burning off accumulated soot, either during operation or parked is called REGENERATION.
Good info, I saw some people talking about not wanting a regen motor. I had no idea what they are talking about. So a DPF system just complicates the tractor and that's why most try to stay clear? I guess I wouldn't really care either way but would rather have a more reliable tractor.
 
   / New member tractor advice #18  
Good info, I saw some people talking about not wanting a regen motor. I had no idea what they are talking about. So a DPF system just complicates the tractor and that's why most try to stay clear? I guess I wouldn't really care either way but would rather have a more reliable tractor.

Mahindra tractors don't have the DPF that I know of. I think their engine design just burns hotter all the time to clear particulates. But it doesn't regen.
 
   / New member tractor advice #19  
So a DPF system just complicates the tractor and that's why most try to stay clear? I guess I wouldn't really care either way but would rather have a more reliable tractor..

The last new pre-Tier IV tractors were sold in 2012.

Tractor sales have continued to increase since 2012.

With redesigned Tier IV engines tractors usually gain 3 - 4 horsepower.

Most buying NEW Tier IV equipment have few complaints.

Used anything can be problem prone due to lack of previous-operator attention to periodic maintenance, especially with Tier IV paraphernalia.
 
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   / New member tractor advice #20  
I have a TYM T474 HST with a cab (48.3Hp), I now have 405h on it, never had a regen request. When you work them hard enough they will do passive regen. Here I got it with my 6' JD LX 6 rotary brush cutter.


LX6
370586337_10159536868835983_6470850284851320104_n.jpg
 

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