New old toy for my Kioti

[Gittyup]

Thanks for the compliments everyone. It's not perfect. But, it'll do. I worked it a little bit more yesterday. Works great. Box fills fast and the hydraulic toplink lets me easily control dig-spread action to remove/add material where I want it to go. I was trying to do this with a scraper blade and was struggling to get the material where I wanted it. The box works so much better for that.

The box was made by Gill, which is now owned by Woods.

The project was more like a full case of beer adventure.... spread out over time, of course.

Lights are very similar to what others have done. I tapped into the 15A "Customer" circuit right at the fuse block. The Customer circuit is activated by the ignition switch. I mounted a marine grade switch on the plastic panel above the 3PH control lever. It controls all 3 lights, switching hot side. Ground is connected to the fender, near the switch. The lights are 55 watts each, two to the front, one to the rear. The lights were a gift, but didn't have a means to really adjust them, at least not much (no gimble or anything). So, I made my own pivot mounts and welded them to some unistrut, which was then clamped to the ROPS. They work great.

 

[Highbeam]

Box blades are great. Be careful not to catch it on a tree since it is wider than your machine.

So 55 watts *3 = 165 watts. 12 volts * 15 amps = 180 watts. So you are getting pretty close to using up that circuit.

 

[Gittyup]

Yep, pretty much am using all the juice. Don't really see the need to add anything else anyway.

I like that it's a little wider. Keeps my tires away from the edges so much.

 

[IslandTractor]

In general you would presumably use either front or back lights but not both at the same time so it's unlikely you'd overpower your circuit. I guess that boxblading might be an exception if you suddenly get a hankering for a little soil removal at midnight.

 

[Mark_G]

Could you describe the install for the hydraulic toplink? I have a rear set of remotes for my Backhoe. I keep thinking a hydraulic toplink would be a good idea especially paired with a quick connect.

Thanks,

 

[Gittyup]

If you already have the rear remotes, there isn't much to it. I don't have one of those fancy cylinders with check valves (like CCM). Mine is just a cylinder that was included when I bought a hydraulic forklift. The cylinder simply replaces the toplink. It attaches to the tractor and implement in the exact same way as the manual toplink - pins. Then you just have to match the quick connect adapters to your rear remote ports.

As to control, you have to have a valve/lever to change flow direction. If you had the Kioti rear remote kit installed for your backhoe, then you are all set. If not, you'll have to plumb in your own valve or switch to the remote kit. There are a number of threads on TBN about plumbing in your own control valves for running remotes. Sorry, I have never done this. I have the Kioti single-port remote kit plumbed with 1/2" hoses and fittings.

This thread shows my cylinder: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/137401-can-i-use-top-link.html

 

[Gittyup]

Speaking of the remote lever, I've been having a heck of a time lately getting out of the locked (forward) position. I really have to pull very hard, to the point of slamming my hand into the 3PH lift stop when it does release (got bruises and scrapes to show for it). I can't exactly tell where the "detent" mechanism is located. I've lubricated everything, but it doesn't seem to be helping all that much. I even greased it where it enters the valve (toggle point), with no real help. Does anyone know how to loosen this thing up?

 

[Mark_G]

I have the same issue with mine. If its forward, it is forward and does not want to let go. I'm not sure it would feather a rear cylinder well.

Thanks for the reply,

Mark

 

[IslandTractor]

There are two types of remote valves used by Kioti. Those that are purely A N B with indents and then there are the spring loaded levers that go sort of A a N b B where there is an intermediate range between off and on indents that is spring loaded so it provides a bit of resistance. It is much easier to use this type when trying to control a topping lift as it moves only when you press against the spring. My CK had the simple on off type which I used successfully with a grapple. My new DK has one of each (I had one extra installed and I am not certain if the stock valve is the one with the fancy intermediate spring loaded step or not).

 

[Gittyup]

IT, mine is the latter that you describe. But, it's real easy to push too far into detent. When I first got it, the detent was easy in and out. Over time it has gotten so very difficult. There must be something that can be lubed/adjusted or something. It's way too hard even for backhoe use.