New Old toy

[tjkubota93]

Bought a 346xp oe

Looks like I was the first to run it. Took cat muffler off and put on a hollow one with 1/2" pipe and cut the limiters off the screws. So far have turned them 1/2 or 3/4 turn out.

 

[tjkubota93]

 

[LightningCamaroGuy]

Very nice! I've heard a lot of good things about that saw.

How do you cut the limiters off? I just bought a Jonsered 2166 and converted it to basically a 2172/372 XP as well as adding a 5/8 pipe to the muffler and there wasn't even a 1/4 turn left to go counterclockwise on either the low or high adjustment screws. Those limiters seem pretty hard to get at. I would assume it's a pretty similar between the carbs on our saws?

 

[tjkubota93]

I used these mac Mini Long-Reach Diagonal Cutter 5-3/4"

Bought a set of these pliers years ago when I was a new mechanic

 

[LightningCamaroGuy]

View attachment 526253I used these mac Mini Long-Reach Diagonal Cutter 5-3/4"

Bought a set of these pliers years ago when I was a new mechanic

Okay thanks!

Not sure that would work for me though. I have this carb and if you look the needles and recessed in the housing. I think the limiters are spring loaded and allows for more adjustment with a special tool that the EPA doesn't let dealers sell to the general public.

Amazon.com: Husqvarna OEM 372XP X-Torq Chainsaw Carburetor 58111 RWJ-4B: Patio, Lawn & Garden

Thanks for the reply and I apologize for taking your thread off topic.

 

[tjkubota93]

I think it's on topic.

Yeah that's different, I'd have to look at that. Have you searched on the Internet about it?

 

[tjkubota93]

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/no-limiter-caps-on-372xp.209515/

 

[LightningCamaroGuy]

I think it's on topic.

Yeah that's different, I'd have to look at that. Have you searched on the Internet about it?

I was reading about it on a thread talking about adjusting the carb on a 390XP. I guess they have the same carb. I might be able to compress the limiters and turn the needles without any special tool but IDK. It's pretty tight in there. I've read that if you do a muffler mod that you need to richen it up a little but IDK if I really need to so much as the gas station by my house sells ethenal free, 110 lead race gas and I'm running that with some RP 2 stroke oil at about a 40:1 ratio so it might be rich enough. Lol.

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=71424.0

 

[tjkubota93]

I just started using royal purple

 

[ericm979]

40:1 instead of 50:1 will slightly lean the fuel:air ratio. The carb meters not just gas, but gas with oil in it. If you put in more oil there's less gas per unit of air. 50:1 to 40:1 is not a big difference but if it's already lean it's going the wrong way. Not that I'd suggest 100:1 oil ratio to richen up the fuel- it needs enough oil.

Race gas will reduce the chance of detonation, which is one of the bad things that can be cause by running too lean a fuel ratio. But fuel atomization also cools the engine quite a bit in two strokes. Lean fuel will mean less of that, and race gas won't help it. Race gas is really expensive. And it won't fix poor running from being too lean.

There are tools available. I've seen them on Amazon and ebay. Or you can make a tool or an adaptor. For a blower that came set up way too lean I made an aluminium cap that fit over the splined adjuster and has a screwdriver slot on it.

 

[motownbrowne]

40:1 instead of 50:1 will slightly lean the fuel:air ratio. The carb meters not just gas, but gas with oil in it. If you put in more oil there's less gas per unit of air. 50:1 to 40:1 is not a big difference but if it's already lean it's going the wrong way. Not that I'd suggest 100:1 oil ratio to richen up the fuel- it needs enough oil.

Race gas will reduce the chance of detonation, which is one of the bad things that can be cause by running too lean a fuel ratio. But fuel atomization also cools the engine quite a bit in two strokes. Lean fuel will mean less of that, and race gas won't help it. Race gas is really expensive. And it won't fix poor running from being too lean.

There are tools available. I've seen them on Amazon and ebay. Or you can make a tool or an adaptor. For a blower that came set up way too lean I made an aluminium cap that fit over the splined adjuster and has a screwdriver slot on it.

Good advice right here.

I haven't seen a 2166, but can you not just trim the limiter tabs with an exacto knife with the top cover removed? Or failing that, how about removing the carb? Should be pretty straightforward.

OP, those 346s are awesome saws. I've only run an OE a few times. I have a 350 with a ported 346 NE cylinder and a carb from a 357 on it. What a fun saw! It handles sorry nicely, tunes very comfortably at 15,000 RPM, and has really fast throttle response. Hope you enjoy your new one!

 

[tjkubota93]

Good advice right here.

I haven't seen a 2166, but can you not just trim the limiter tabs with an exacto knife with the top cover removed? Or failing that, how about removing the carb? Should be pretty straightforward.

OP, those 346s are awesome saws. I've only run an OE a few times. I have a 350 with a ported 346 NE cylinder and a carb from a 357 on it. What a fun saw! It handles sorry nicely, tunes very comfortably at 15,000 RPM, and has really fast throttle response. Hope you enjoy your new one!

That sounds cool. I am really considering having it ported. When I bought it I didn't know there was a 45 and a 50cc, I thought they were all 50. No big deal, I still like it alot.

 

[motownbrowne]

That sounds cool. I am really considering having it ported. When I bought it I didn't know there was a 45 and a 50cc, I thought they were all 50. No big deal, I still like it alot.

The NE has more displacement, but the OE still has a huge following. Some people think they've got more pizzazz. I've only run one a couple times, so I can't comment. You on OPE or AS? There's some great Husky guys there who could do it up right. Mine was done by a guy named Mike Toalth I think. Goes by t4driller on OPE.

 

[tjkubota93]

I am not, I just read alot. Seems not as friendly as around here. I am considering a fella known as mastermind.

 

[motownbrowne]

I am not, I just read alot. Seems not as friendly as around here. I am considering a fella known as mastermind.

That's Randy Evans in Tennessee. You couldn't choose a better dude to do business with. I have an ms660 that he did, although it was ported when I got it, so I didn't commission the work myself. We've had several conversations on OPE though, and I can tell you I wouldn't hesitate for a second to have him do a port job for me.

 

[tjkubota93]

That's Randy Evans in Tennessee. You couldn't choose a better dude to do business with. I have an ms660 that he did, although it was ported when I got it, so I didn't commission the work myself. We've had several conversations on OPE though, and I can tell you I wouldn't hesitate for a second to have him do a port job for me.

Thanks. I was gonna send him my jred2252, bit I bought another saw. Hehe. Now I gotta save my lunch money, probably gonna do the 346 first though.

 

[tjkubota93]

I'm also considering porting them myself. I guess the worst I could do is to ruin a jug.

 

[motownbrowne]

I'm also considering porting them myself. I guess the worst I could do is to ruin a jug.

Not a bad idea. OEM P/C kits for huskies are cheap now compared to a few years ago. Another option would be to buy this saw, then swap top ends onto your saw as sell the 350 with your stock 346 top end. Probably wouldn't lose much $$ on the deal. That's the same guy that did my 350/346, and it's a helluva saw. I had it in a tree job with a couple of Stihl guys who have a tree service. They kept stealing it from me. Everytime I put the darned thing down it'd disappear.

http://opeforum.com/threads/husqvarna-350-46-oe-ported.9261/