New owner headaches

[DieselBound]

DieselBound tell us why all these brand new machines are having so much trouble with the regen. And tell us why kioti hasn't fixed the problem, because I talked to a kioti dealer and they are just waiting for a recall on this problem from kioti. They know there is a problem everyone except you. I paid over 20k for a machine that is picky as ****

I don't have knowledge of "all these brand new machines" having problems. I am aware that there can be problems if not operated correctly. There are multi-million dollar machines running DPF systems; if these were having problems (functioning other than stated by the manufacturer) it would be front page news! Now then, if manufacturers failed to get something correct, yes, there would likely be recalls and such. DPF systems themselves, however, are pretty straight forward and have been around long enough now that there should be little reason for manufacturers to not get them right.

If you are having problems I ain't the one to solve them, sorry. Best would be work with your dealer, that or sell your tractor and get something else (and cross your fingers that you don't have the same issues).

 

[DieselBound]

I don't know what your talking about no one said home heating oil is the same as off road diesel, there is a sulfur difference in off road diesel that is giving these new tractors trouble. Just because your not having trouble there are a lot of people who are

Read up above where people mixed heating oil into this discussion. I assure, you, I DO know what I'm talking about, thank you for asking.

If you know of high sulphur levels in off-road diesel then you should report it to the authorities as that is illegal. You see, numbers and claims that you're making are from pre-2007. In 2007 the current diesel fuel standards went into full effect. I get it that you(?) and others(?) are having issues (whatever they are), but tossing around misguided information doesn't help resolve these problems (and, just as it's done, starts us chasing down the rabbit hole). If you insist on disputing then I challenge you to produce documentation that shows the standards are NOT what I've stated them to be.

People having problems could be for a number of reasons. I, and I doubt that you or anyone else, can speak with authority for everyone else as to what their problems are.

If you really want to get to the bottom of things then I suggest cutting this problem down to size. Start by dismissing the wives tale that it's related to off-road diesel fuel: not saying that people can get bad fuel, people can get bad ANYTHING; as the US fuel standards go, and as far as manufacturers of the tractors and DPF system go, all should work as advertised- it does so for me, and I use off-road diesel (to boot)!

Is this problem the sole domain of one manufacturer? Look around. Is it for a class of tractors? Is there a common operating environment/use that's here?

 

[argen]

Back on topic: Ive got 50 hours on the ole girl. Ordered all the filters to have on hand. Will replace the hydaulic and oil for this service. I see one of the loader lines is sweating and i can smell it when i use the FEL. Will end up taking off the wheel to take a closer look and poke around a bit. Plan on letting the dealer know what i see when i go pick up the filters this week.

 

[DieselBound]

Yes, always be sure that the dealer knows of ANY issues that you find. I've reported things to my dealer who says that they were going to notify the rep about it: it was something that I resolved myself. Having a cooperative relationship with the dealer goes a long way toward making various pains a lot more tolerable. If one goes about it as though one is trying to help the dealer improve then it's likely to do just that (a benefit for all); avoid confrontational situations (one can read how these tend to end up). Just some comments meant for everyone's consumption.

New equipment has bugs/issues. One wants to expose them asap and get them all behind. The tractor will likely be around for a long time, so a bit of early pain will most certainly be forgotten years from now.

 

[cat fever]

FWIW,

I have worked in a refinery for the last 25 years. While I won't go over the history of diesel fuel, this is the way it is now.

We make two grades of diesel. ULSD#2 on highway fuel 15 ppm or lower sulfur. Color is clear to slight yellow or green. If the fuel is for off road use then it is dyed red at the loading rack where the trucks load it for delivery to the stations.

The second grade of diesel is ULSD#1. This fuel is for winter use and has a sulfur content of 15 ppm or lower. This fuel is JET-A with lower sulfur content. The color is clear unless for off road use then it gets the red dye same as #2 fuel.

My bet would be that most refineries operate the same way we do.

As already mentioned I would make sure you buy pure diesel fuel, no BIO fuel especially during the winter.

Keeping with the thread, I have had zero problems with my tractor and regen issues. Or any issues for that matter.:thumbsup:

 

[SkunkWerX]

I just hit the 50 hour mark on my CK2510, I don't have the regenerator.

In the old days....
I have heated my homes with #2 Fuel oil for many years. It is the only thing that was fed to my old Ford 1210 and it was fine. I never even clogged fuel filters with it. Then, in more recent times with a Kubota I was stricter about using pump diesel. Both myself and a friend would periodically clog the in-line filter. The station did a brisk business, so all we can figure is that they were stirring sediment doing a lot of station fills, and if we got there right afterward, we got more particulates in our fuel? We both started using Mr. Funnels, and it helped a lot. Each tankful I could see what would have gone in my tank. It adds up.
That was background for this: I vowed with this new tractor to use only good on-road pump diesel and the Mr. Funnel. I just built a fueling station with parts I had lying around and added a Goldenrod filter housing with the moisture absorbing element. I fill the fueling station through the Mr. Funnel to remove obvious dirt and sediment, then the Goldenrod element does the rest. Call me crazy, but I have had enough issues over the years, that I decided to do something proactively. Time will tell.

As far as new tractor issues:

My mid mount mower was installed correctly, but not actually adjusted and set up. I went through the manual, and made the adjustments, and even did it again until I was satisfied. That was a dealer issue. Also a dealer issue, I suspect, was low hydraulic oil level. I did order a hydraulic angling snow blade with the tractor, and I suspect they hooked it up, it sucked down it's share of fluid, and they didn't top off the tractor reservoir. The front end fluid was really low. Like not even showing on the dipstick. So, we ask ourselves? Are the dealers actually going through the new tractor set-up and checklist?

I think I had typical new tractor issues. The throttle lever was very tight. I shot some white lithium grease into both ends of the control cable and worked it until it was smoother. Greased all points. Lubed linkages, checked bolts for tightness, fan belt too, coolant level, etc. I didn't mind any of this because it was helping with familiarization.

I pulled all of the gold colored zinc plated pins that i could find, cleaned them and applied anti-sieze grease to them. Those pins, if in contact with plain steel will start to react with the steel and stick in place. Was aware of this from other equipment. So, note to other new owners, grease or lube those pins, you'll be glad you did. Especially the large FEL pins. The folding ROPS pins are also culprits.

My advice upon receiving a new machine is go over all the bolts for tightness, check ALL fluid levels, operate all functions, attach any other attachments to make sure they attach, line-up and operate. Park in a place where you can monitor for leaks, or put cardboard or plywood underneath. it's better to catch this stuff in the first week or two, than discover it later. Some of these things are supposed to be done every 10 hours, or weekly, monthly or whatever anyway. I don't keep that rigid a maintenance schedule, but, when brand new, it's a good time to be more diligent until you are confident everything is in order.

Lastly, I just changed replaced the hydraulic and HST filters. A fluid change is not called for at the 50 hour service interval, but I went ahead and changed the hydraulic fluid also.
I used a premium grade fluid, not bargain stuff, and it made a noticeable difference! My HST is more responsive and smoother. Going forward and uphill it feels like I am putting more power to the ground than with the factory fluid. i can go up the hill in High range, with lower RPMS than previously, without any bogging or hesitation. The high pitched HST whine was cut by at least 75%. The FEL operation is smoother and less twitchy. So, new users, you may want to consider doing a full hydraulic fluid change when you change those filters at 50 hours. I noticed the difference immediately.
(note: my log splitter hasn't ever has the hydraulic changed, it is WAY overdue, so i figured, I'd take the 50 hour Kioti factory hydraulic fluid, and some other partial buckets I have and give the log splitter a fluid change. That helped make my decision to go ahead and do fluid and filters at 50 hours). Glad I did!