new owner of 5000, questions

[karlbike]

So I just got a ford 5000 with a loader, and of course I have a bunch of questions. the biggest and first is what service/owners manual should I have for this machine. it has the original ford loader with the controls under the seat. all operates well.

The biggest PITA is getting the machine into reverse. you have to idle it way down, and push the clutch in all the way to get it into reverse. then it will go in sometimes. you have to hold the lever in reverse while letting the clutch out slowly. there is over 1.5" free play in the clutch pedal before you can feel it connect with the internals. seems like it might be able to be adjusted a bit to get less play.

That and a number of leaks (nothing serious or undiagnosed so far) are the questions.

hope I didn't get burned. paid $6000 for the tractor. good tires, runs good. good PS.

 

[sweettractors]

If it runs out good, you got a good solid purchase, heck, a new loader nowadays could cost that much for a tractor that size. I bet adjusting out the free travel back to 3/4 or 1 inch will help on that shifting problem. Congratulations ! Ken Sweet

 

[karlbike]

runs good so far. Just put my first hour on it, grading the driveway.

I got a bunch of impliments with it for 1k. small disc, harrow, back blade, subsoiler, landscape rake,

I want to if I can, move the loader valves to on the loader, add down pressure possibly, if I can figgur it out. maybe better to put new cylinders on rather than rebuild them (they need it)

the free play is more like 3", not 1.5" Hopefully that will get it.
I'm just worried that it's something like a bent or worn shift fork or something.

any suggestions on service manuals for this machine in particular and older tractors in general? this is my first non Lawn tractor, and I need to learn basically everything possible.

thanks
karl

 

[Soundguy]

at leas tget the i&t manual.. but preferably, the ford service manual.

and adjust that clutch

6000$ for a 5000? that's normal price range for the machine onlu.....you got the loader free.

she diesel or gas? 233 or 256ci?

soundguy

 

[karlbike]

diesel, 256 I believe (later model, as it's about a 70)

the PO gave me an I&T manual, but it's really lacking. for instance, there is no "Clutch" heading in the index, I adjusted the clutch till there is about 1" free play, but it didn't help the reverse thing.

I'm planning on rebuilding the loader (original and tight other than leaking hydraulics) with down pressure and a joystick control on the fender. and a quick tach bucket/fork setup for moving wood. heck, while I'm at it, I might add a remote line on the end of the loader for a grapple with the forks.
no end to the fun.

gotta get that reverse sorted out. Is there an owners' manual that will at least tell me what all the appropriate fluids are and levels to be maintained? and which lever does what? I've figured out what most of them do, but don't want to break anything.

thanks
karl

 

[Soundguy]

the owners manual is lacking.. but you might as well get it as it is cheap.

is it 8spd? 10spd? or DP?

soundguy

 

[jimmysisson]

If you type "ford 5000 tractor manual" into that big auction site search you'll find what you need, reasonable.
Jim

 

[karlbike]

it's an 8 speed.

kind of annoying not being able to start out in one gear and change once up to speed.

I did my first off road work yesterday (since we finally got a whole 4 days without rain) and found that even without any real weight in the loader (we were picking rocks out of what will become the yard) the front tires sank really far in to the soft soil (silty loam, with perched water table about 24" down.)
'maybe I should have bought that kubota with tracks hmmmmm....

I'm thinking significantly wider front tires (currently about 6" wide) might be in order. Should I fill the rear tires to help with traction in soft stuff while working with the loader? or will the weight sometimes be a penalty in soft stuff and should I opt for a removable weight (the 55 gal drum filled with concrete and with 3 point pins)

 

[sweettractors]

Flotation tires on the front would be a benefit. Hopefully the yard will settle some more. Weight on the rear is always your friend while using the FEL. Ken Sweet

 

[Soundguy]

you select the gear you need and go.. thius unit is not meant to be shifted on the fly. you come to a stop, shift and go.

the front tires on that 5000 should be about a 7.5-16 6-16 are way way too small.. those are for like a hundred series machine. ( just had to wrestle a 7.5 this weekend to change a tube on my 5000.. )

some people run weighted rears.. some use 3pt weights. all depends on your application. if you ar eloosing traction.. then get weight.

soundguy

 

[mostly_gas]

If you plan on using the tractor in the yard for mowing ect. , keep the weight removable. In my yard I have problems with ruts when the yard is dry and my rears are not filled.

 

[D7E]

A 5000 will shift on the move sweet as a nut once you get the hang of it and will slip up and down as sweet as a synchro , Just got to learn to match thye RPM's just right , A foot throttle helps a lot too .

 

[karlbike]

Can I retrofit a foot throttle?

as I have to throttle way down to reliably get into reverse, a foot throttle would make that much easier.

it's always nice to move one of the many hand levers so that I can operate it by foot. on my old simplicity 3416H I built a foot actuator for the hydrostatic hand lever. given that when I'm blowing snow, there are not enough hands, the foot go and stop really helps. blowing snow the controls for the hands are:
throttle, stop and go(now foot as well as hand operated) blower lift, blower aiming, front PTO control, and steering wheel.

 

[Soundguy]

A 5000 will shift on the move sweet as a nut once you get the hang of it and will slip up and down as sweet as a synchro , Just got to learn to match thye RPM's just right , A foot throttle helps a lot too .

at the price of a new twin stick that will fit that 5000 I wouldn't want to be teaching somebody else the tricky art of shifting on the fly while they strip teetch off gears.

It was designed to be shifted when not moving... there's the safe answer..

soundguy

 

[karlbike]

after reading some other posts on clutches, I'm wondering if the clutch may be sticking (IE oil on the friction surfaces.) I'm going to try the diagnostic revving and idling.

it has to idle down really far in order to engage.

karl

 

[Soundguy]

oily clutches can be slow to release and grabby.

hit the clutch and idle up and down, wait a few seconds and see what you get. also keep in mind them gears don't all stop turning the instant you hit the clutch.

soundguy

 

[AGRIMAN]

The 5000 are good tractors with very few problems. You should try to adjust your clutch to see if it helps the shifting problem , but I expect that it may be worn especially since it was already equipped with a loader. Loader work can be hard on dry clutch machines, but if you use a little caution you can still get good life out of a clutch.

I won稚 call this a problem as much as a little known fact. The 5000 uses a inline Simms pump that does require service. The pump has a internal lub system and the oil needs to be check and changed regularly( I usually change at every engine oil change). I have seen many new owners (and some older) that simple don稚 know this and will never change the oil or will run the pump dry. The last reman pump that I bought was around $1200.

The I&T manual should have a section on how to check/change the oil in pump. Just be careful as the pump housing is cast aluminum and the thread will strip or the housing crack if over tighten?Seen that happen to.

Still a good buy at $6000.

 

[Soundguy]

could be a cav rotary pump if she is a mid 70's model.

soundguy

 

[karlbike]

So I've been able to spend some more time on the machine getting used to its quirks, and learning it's limitations (getting it stuck the first time I ventured off the driveway.

I'm in need of the manuals for the machine and have had no luck finding the serial number, which manual vendors are requesting. tractordata says the SN should be on the front right of the transmission housing. I can't find it. I really don't care about the age or SN, but need to make sure I'm getting the right manual and parts later on.

Other thing: engine doesn;t crank every time I turn the key. it'll only click the first 5-10 times I turn the key, and then will crank slowly, then fast and start. when warm it turns and starts properly every time. Starter solenoid?
seems like the most likely culprit.

on the clutch/reverse thing: when cold, it slips right into reverse just fine. once it's heated up, it doesn'tr like to. seems to confirm the ;sticky clutch thing. thicker oil in the tranny makes the gears stop faster.

Thanks
Karl

 

[Soundguy]

clean up the battery terminals and cables and ends at the solenoid. also check the wire from the key thru the NS switch to the solenoid.

as for the sn.. it IS on the trans bellhousing aft of the starter.. at least from 1953 to 2002 ford.nh put them there..

soundguy