new owner of 5000, questions

[jimmysisson]

2nd on the cables. Differing starter speeds don't sound like solenoid problems. Clutch could be not sliding on the splines when warmed up, or pilot bushing could be spinning the mainshaft by friction somehow. Either requires a split and new parts "while you're in there." Still, nice rugged tractor that can do a lot of work.
Jim

 

[karlbike]

really hopeing to not have to split the tractor. doesn't sound like fun. especially since I don't have a shop to work in.

can I assume that removing the loader before splitting the tractor is a must?
of course it is. unless I can unbolt it from the rear axle and roll the front half forward, and the loader could help counterbalance it.

sounds like a clutch rebuild and possibly a trans rebuild. new seals, etc.

There aren't too many things that go from the front to the back of the tractor, so other than being big and heavy, it doesn't look like it'd be too bad.

actually I do have a shop to work in, but it's a ways from where the tractor is. and I have to clear it with the landlord. Is this the sort of project that a newbie with a lot of mechanical experience and aptitude could tackle on his own with some advice from online and helpful neighbors?
I've done mostly replace parts, but never torn a tranny apart.

could be a good winter project, or could go horribly horribly wrong.
hmmmmmm

 

[whodat526]

pull the loader first it is a must and will be a whole lot easier to handle and why are u going to have to rebuild the trans i have never seen a 8x2 crashbox trans that was messed up just some broke housings if it is someone has abused that tractor badly

 

[karlbike]

I always plan for the worst, hope for the best.

it's started jumping out of reverse, only once in a while. I'll just have to look and get some suggestions when I get in there.

karl

 

[karlbike]

so How large front wheels can i go on this beast?

with the front loader, and my property's tendancy to be soft and sloppy, once I get the fronts bogged down, I'm done.

it currently has 6.5x 16's, but once I go wider, I'll need offset rims, as there's only 2" between the current tires and the steering knuckles.

thanks for the suggestions. d

Karl

 

[whodat526]

U CAN PUT 10/16 ON IT

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. and you can dish the rims too.

soundguy

 

[401FordManNZ]

I have a ford 6600(pretty much same as 5000) and it was a b*stard for graunching gears even double declutching, worse when hot of course,anyways when I repowered her I found the flywheel to have quite a bit of wear(big lip where clutch runs) got it resurfaced,difference is unbelievable. Not a problem shifting up or down on the go,infact it is almost better than my MF 375 syncho. Willing to bet this is your problem also. Rgrdss Marty

 

[Soundguy]

the 8spd crashbox was NEVER meant to be shifted on the fly.

soundguy

 

[karlbike]

so if I go with say 10's, which are probably necessary, and I don't want to have to do it again, how do I tell what dish rims I need?

should those go on 8" rims? or 6's or ???

I can measure the old ones, and make sure the inner edge of the new tire/rim combo doesn't extend in further than the old one, but if I were to order them online, how would I spec that? or would a good tire/wheel dealer be able to tell me what spec I need?

anyone need some 6.5x16's in real nice shape with nice front rims?

karl